What disc should i get for my vortech fmu if i'm running 14psi w/ 440 cc injectors. Is the 12:1 disc too much fuel w/ the 440s if i'm running 14psi? I heard someone say my fuel pressure will get too high at fuel boost causing my injectors to seize? Any help will be appreciated...thanks

btw...I plan on getting a standalone in a month when i get the money. I jUst wannna use this setup til i get the standalone in...thanks

 

I would get even bigger injectors than that if your gona get yourself a standalone,
just don't install them till you get your standalone system....

Adi

 

Just wait.

 

14*12 + 50 = 218psi. badass.

 

if your gonna run 440cc injectors without a standalone your gonna need something to control fuel like even a vafc.. I think most people running 440's w/ FMU run a 6:1 disk.. But the best thing for u to do is keep the boost down till u get the standalone and install the 440's at the same time..

 

The way I lok at it is if you go over 10psi. you need standalon. Of course that is just my thinking. Just think if you run 14psi. with the 12:1 FMU you will be hitting 200+psi. of fuel pressure. That is super high. I who get a EMU to cntrol the fuel levels over the damn FMU peice of ****. Well thats my opinion, how you use it is up to you. Later

 

The stock FPR raises FP with boost too... at a 1:1 ratio.. so at 14psi to that. Not that there are any pumps that can actually do this or anything... =P

Dustin

 

what if he got the aem 1:1, thats 1psi fuel for 1psi boost...right?? I think thats better with hondata anyways, so wouldnt that work with the injectors??

 

Does the B&M do a good job of this 1:1 or is it just a peice o ****?

 

Understand that the 1:1 rise rate does not increase fuel delivery. It is designed to compensate for pressure (or vacuum) in the intake manifold. The idea is that under strong vacuum the motor would "suck" extra fuel from the fuel rail and under boost it would "block" extra fuel... The FPR compensates for the pressure difference between the fuel rail and the manifold.

The stock FPR is 1:1.

Dustin

 

Haven't had any problems with my stock (B&M) regulator.

 

Here is what I say:

12:1 Vortech withn 440's, no way in hell. Don't do it. you will max out the fuel pump and still run rich as hell under non-boost condicitons.

Anything over 10 psi requires a standalone.

If you really want to try this, then at a minimum you need a 6:1 disc and a SAFC. Even if you can get it to idle by turning down the fuel pressure, you will have problems keeping the right fueling under boost since you will max out your pump in a hurry. The stock pump cannot support any more than 65psi, it just can't. Even high pressure pumps are marginal at 90 psi. With the 6:1 you will be around 100psi and the SAFC will take car of the rest.

Just save your pennies or run 7 psi of boost.

Randy

 

Umm yea I think that's just a "touch" too much there

Without an AFC, you won't idle with 440's, I know I can't. Either wait for the standalone, or get an AFC before you do anything.

 

Yea..i have a vafc to control the idle. Just that the thing is i dunno how soon i can get the standalone. $1k for that standalone is way out of my budget especially since i'm $4k in debt. I was just curious on how much boost i could run with that fmu reliably. I'll probably run 8-10psi until i can get the standalone. So i should get the 6:1 disc for about 8-10psi? I'm still debating on whether i should get the hondata or zdyne or even the dfi. Which would u guys prefer is the simplest to tune? Thanks for all the help.

 

12:1 disk with 14 psi will ONLY work if you have the Walbro Intank pump.

 

hahahaha u r such an ***!

 

Walbros are the greatest thing to come about.. really works good on high pressure.

 

yes especially with stock injectors. That is the winning combo right now
[Edit-He is just being sarcastic so dont take his word. ]-art

 

Would it not even be worth getting that walbro intank pump? Would that allow me to run around 12-14psi with that fmu and injectors and vafc reliably?

I dunno how long it will take me to get my standalone.

I guess the smartest thing to do is just boost low until i save for the standalone.

1 more question. How much boost can my stock cylinder walls handle until i need to resleeve? Thanks a lot guyS.

 

you can boost 30 psi if tuned right on stock sleeves.

 

I've actually seen about 47 psi personally. It was on an old 1.5 dx motor from like 1989. it was carburated, draw through turbo.

 

So if i get a standalone...i can just get rid of my fmu and btm? Should i still keep my msd 6a or do i not need it. Can i also get rid of my vafc? Thanks.

 

you can get rid of that VAFC if you get a standalone. It has all the fuel control you'd need

 

For 8-10psi on 440's, I personally don't have to use any FMU. I'm still trimming back -12% up top at 10psi, but this is on a D16, i'm sure a B16 inhales more air, especially with a larger turbo. I'd say play it safe with a 4:1 FMU and use the AFC to dial back where you run too rich. With 440's and a small FMU rate, your ok with an intank walbro, anyhting more than 75-ish psi at the rail and it's time to look into high pressure units. So if you intend on pushing 10psi on that 4:1 (40psi + 10psi from the 1:1 regulator + static 40psi = nearly 100psi), you'd better look at getting an inline pump and an adjustable FPR to lower your static pressure a touch (high pressure pumps typically generate too much idle pressure). That with the cold plugs and a decent amount of retard should leave you pretty safe, if boosting 10psi w/o a standalone can be called safe at all

 

I'm currently about to install a fields fuel controller on my car... I've got rc 310cc's, stock internals, wlbro "high-pressure' fuel pump and the inline pump that came with my dragIII kit. 10:1 disc (Came with the kit I got). I also have the b&m commandflo fpr setup... what should I set my idle fuel pressure at. I figure if I get the right idle, then I can base my adjustments for the fuel controller on the a/f gauge (I know its shitty, but I can't get access to a dyno from where I live). A good base fuel prsessure... what should it be? (just to make sure I'm doing it right) to set this, I pull and plug the vacuum line off the fpr and disconnect the power from my inline fuel pump, right?

Any thoughts?