Here is my current setup..
91 crx si
d16y7
c. a. intake/header/2.25" exhaust
y8 intake manifold
gsr 60mm throttle body
2 layer head gasket for increase in compression to about 10.2
pm6 ecu with a turboedit chip that someone burned for me with a different fuesl map and higher redline
the chip seems to have stopped working and I am getting about a 6800 rpm revlimit. Otherwise, the car runs great, albeit the chip was designed for my mini-me setup that I was running with a z6 head.

I have been reading up on the pg7 ecu and I think that this will help me out. what do you guys say? I definatly want the higher redline. The thing is.. I am using the y8 fuel pressure regulator and I believe that I am running a bit rich because this fpr is rated a bit higher than the a6 fpr that the pm6 ecu is designed for. I get ALOT of popping out of my exhaust under deceleration. I would probably have flames if I wasnt using a Catalytic converter. This has to be robbing me of some power..

One more thing..I really want to get the delta 272 cam...Think that would be a good addition? I cant find any dyno charts on the web with someone using this cam.
thanks

I have been doing research and I am co

 

well, if you're running a vtec fuel map, that's your main problem.

can you just pull the chip out of the ecu and run it on the stock maps? that should work decently.

 

I'd get the equipment to burn your own chips and use the stock pm6 bin for now and then if you get the cam get it tuned on the dyno and burn a new chip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd get the equipment to burn your own chips and use the stock pm6 bin for now and then if you get the cam get it tuned on the dyno and burn a new chip.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, burning chips and doing tuning is half the fun of hondas today, A decent setup shouldn't cost you more than $200. If you want a chip to start from, I have a few good PM6 bins.

 

I agree. I would love to burn my own chips. I have a copy of turboedit on my computer here at work just to see how it works. It seems a bit complicated. I am doing homework on how to trim fuel but I dont understand how to change timing. Dyno tunning can get pricy. Wouldnt you need a wideband O2 to properly tune A/F ratios.?I have heard that the LED light A/F gauges are not that accurate for tunning. I just wish there was some way to use my a6 fpr regulator on my y8 intake manifold.

Does the B&M fpr let you trim fuel or only increase Fuel.

I would go back to my stock program but I dont have a stock pm6 map. I should get someone to burn me one with fuel trimmed a few % across the board and Redline raised to 7200.
If I contact one of the guys on D-Series that does chips, What should I ask him to do with the timing maps? Advance it a bit or just leave it alone?

One more thing.. I dont get any Black smoke from my exhaust...just ALOT of popping under load while decelerating.

Thanks for the quick replies.!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silent Knight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldnt you need a wideband O2 to properly tune A/F ratios.?I have heard that the LED light A/F gauges are not that accurate for tunning.

Does the B&M fpr let you trim fuel or only increase Fuel.

What should I ask him to do with the timing maps? Advance it a bit or just leave it alone?

I dont get any Black smoke from my exhaust...just ALOT of popping under load while decelerating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wide band all the way, narrow band (stock for a6) is almost worthless for tuning. If you're really going to get into tuning, get yourself a wideband setup ($150+++), you can get good results with street tuning.

The B&M will let you decrease and increase fuel pressure under/over stock psi.

What fuel do you run, I hope with the compression you're running at least 91. Don't go too crazy with timing, you might pick up a little low end and some throttle response, but peak cyclinder pressures will start getting too close to TDC and put a lot of stress on your internals.

When you let of the gas during deceleration, the ecu should shut off the injectors, if you're getting a lot of popping, check for a leaky injector(s), this will also make your car run a little rich, leaning out the cylinders that don't have the leaky injector (long term fuel trim) and lossing you power.

 

I didnt know That I could get a wideband for that cheap... I will keep my eyes open.
My timing is set at stock 16 degrees (red mark on crank pulley) and I put my stock cam gear back on it.
10.2 isnt that much compression is it? I am running regular but I havent heard any detonation plus I am running rich from the y8 fuel pressure regulator. I might try plus fuel, then premium and try to determine a difference in the way my car runs.
Leaky injector huh?.. havent heard of that being a problem with honda injectors but after searching, I did find several occerances. Mine are definatly not leaking from the seals. I will pull the rail and leave the injects. plugged in and turn the key to on in order to prime the fuel system. That should show me if any fues is leaking out of the actual injector. Sound likea good Idea?

 

The DIY_WB stuff can be very affordable, hardest part is find the VX 5-wire O2 for cheap.

10.2 seems a bit high for regular fuel, and remember that just because you can't hear knock, doesn't mean its not happening. And yes, running overly rich will slow the combustion and help prevent knock, but you're also loosing power too. Try running supreme and advancing the timing 2 degrees, should make a nice difference in the throttle response (and maybe power too).

As far as removing the rail and pressurising the system, the injectors may pop out of the rail (there is 40 something psi behind them) Do you have a fuel pressure guage? If so, it should hold pretty stead after you turn the car off, if not, you may have a leaky injector (not the seals persay, but the injector itself). If you don't have a gauge or anyway of getting hold of one, you can ubolt the intake manifold from the head and then pressurise the rail to see if there is a leak, or use a spare intake manifold to hold the injectors.

 

I am going to look into DIY wideband.

I will try running useing premium 93 octane on my next fillup and I will advance my timing 2 degrees. I dont have a FP gauge but I do have a spare intake manifold. I will try that to test for a leaking inector.

Thanks for all of the great information.

Back to my origional question about the pg7 ecu. Do you think that I could realize any increased performance by using it until I get an eprom burner and wideband to do my own tuning? I am interested in it because of the higher rev limit and more aggressive timing map.

Also, should I get an adjustible fpr to lean the car out a bit ?

thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silent Knight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back to my origional question about the pg7 ecu. Do you think that I could realize any increased performance by using it until I get an eprom burner and wideband to do my own tuning? I am interested in it because of the higher rev limit and more aggressive timing map.

Also, should I get an adjustible fpr to lean the car out a bit ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll should see a bit of an increase with the PG7 ecu, but I wouldn't go out of my way to find one. And yes, I would true to lean it out a bit, but put a gauge on it, otherwise you're just guessing. You can make one for about $10 at a hardware store.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bunger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

When you let of the gas during deceleration, the ecu should shut off the injectors, if you're getting a lot of popping, check for a leaky injector(s), this will also make your car run a little rich, leaning out the cylinders that don't have the leaky injector (long term fuel trim) and lossing you power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not true. If the ECU turned off the injectors, the engine would run lean, and could even blow up at 7k rpms. Imagine a miss shift at 9k rpms, with no fuel?? are you kidding me? Check your sources and read a couple books before you post information like that. If you don't know about a certain subject, don't start saying what you think could happen.

And yes Silent Knight, you are running rich and the popping from the exhaust is the direct consequence of this. I am running rich myself and get the same thing in my car. The PG7 ECU will make your car run even richer because DOHC engines need more fuel. That's just the way it is. With that compression you can run any kind of gas you like. When you get past 10.8 and up then you have to start worrying about pinging and such.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast88std &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not true. If the ECU turned off the injectors, the engine would run lean, and could even blow up at 7k rpms. Imagine a miss shift at 9k rpms, with no fuel?? are you kidding me? Check your sources and read a couple books before you post information like that. If you don't know about a certain subject, don't start saying what you think could happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually... I KNOW what happens... and maybe you are mistaken but he was complaining about "I get ALOT of popping out of my exhaust under deceleration." The engine is NOT going to blow up under deceleration if you have the injectors off. I know my sources, so please don't quote misinformation. Thats all HT needs is more misinformation, its bad enough as it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast88std &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With that compression you can run any kind of gas you like. When you get past 10.8 and up then you have to start worrying about pinging and such.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting also... ok... well take that 10.8:1 compression... put that motor in a heavy car, and pull a hill in 5th on a hot day... see what happens when there is low octane fuel in the tank.

 

See now you are changing the situation. A civic is not a heavy car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast88std &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">See now you are changing the situation. A civic is not a heavy car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not too heavy of a car, but I was just showing the worst possible case. I've put together a lot of motors and tuned a lot of cars, 10.8:1 compression will not run well on lower octane fuel. Unless you have some very "soft" heads, you're going to need to run a lot less timing, which is the wrong thing to do. I think you'll find any car manufacture that runs more than 10:1 compression requires "premium fuel only".