Stock B16A2 block, B16A Head Crower Stage two cams, Port Flow Vlave Springs/Retainers. I/H/E

Runs Strong... and here is my situation.. I drive 2500 miles a month
I used to Drive a D16y8 with only 28k miles on it... and I used to change oil every 2500 miles, also if I pour 4 qts of oil in, I drain 4 qts of oil out.

But for the B16 motor, I change oil every 2500 miles which also = every month. However, Every two weeks I lose about 1 qt of oil. So Every oil change by the end of the month I lose half the oil that I poured in..

Does this sound normal to you?

I WOT once in a while but mostly cruise below 3500 RPM

 

that seems like a little too much to me... every motor will burn oil no matter what just the rate at which it burns is different from motor to motor... ive heard that 1qt every 3000 miles is considered normal... but 2 times that?... sounds like you have some internal problems... bad rings/valve seals/etc

 

That is what i was thinking too...
but My car only smoke when the car warms up after parking all night...

I had my friend drove behind me for an hour, and didnt notice any smoke.

 

i would do a leakdown/compression test to see if the rings are having any issues, my guess would be the rings/valve seals as stated before...

 

The oil consumption you describe is towards the high end of the range, but still more or less "acceptable" (less than 1 quart per 1000 miles). What type and weight of oil are you using? Also, do you use the dipstick to ensure that you have the proper amount of oil in the system when you perform an oil change, or are you simply adding a specific amount and closing it up?

 

smoking after sitting for awhile. you have bad valve seals. the oil leaks out of the heads overnight and into the combustion chamber. when you fire it up you will see bluish colored smoke for a second or two until the oil burns off. how long it sits and how bad the seals are is what dictates the oil comsumption. if it does not smoke at other times i would start there. now if it smokes when you get on it, then you can look at rings, cylinders etc...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HellbillY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">smoking after sitting for awhile. you have bad valve seals. the oil leaks out of the heads overnight and into the combustion chamber. when you fire it up you will see bluish colored smoke for a second or two until the oil burns off. how long it sits and how bad the seals are is what dictates the oil comsumption. if it does not smoke at other times i would start there. now if it smokes when you get on it, then you can look at rings, cylinders etc...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly what I was gonna say....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The oil consumption you describe is towards the high end of the range, but still more or less "acceptable" (less than 1 quart per 1000 miles). What type and weight of oil are you using? Also, do you use the dipstick to ensure that you have the proper amount of oil in the system when you perform an oil change, or are you simply adding a specific amount and closing it up? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I check my oil every 3-4 days, and I only add oil when the oil level is lower than the lowest dot on the dip stick


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HellbillY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">smoking after sitting for awhile. you have bad valve seals. the oil leaks out of the heads overnight and into the combustion chamber. when you fire it up you will see bluish colored smoke for a second or two until the oil burns off. how long it sits and how bad the seals are is what dictates the oil comsumption. if it does not smoke at other times i would start there. now if it smokes when you get on it, then you can look at rings, cylinders etc...</TD></TR></TABLE>

but my smoke is White color, and i even tried placing a mirror at the exhaust tip right after start up, and it got all fogged up, I am just crossing finger that its just water.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would do a leakdown/compression test to see if the rings are having any issues, my guess would be the rings/valve seals as stated before...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess thats all i can do to find out.

 

I was actually thinking about using a cotton ball to wipe the inside of my exhaust tip and set it in a cup of water for a day and see if the oil floats on top of the water.
but then I also thought that even a car w/o problems would still burn some oil, so the test wouldnt be accurate


I dont have time to do compression test due to my work schedule, all the work I do on my car always has to be after business hours

 

the white smoke is prob just condensation burning out of the exhaust. You sure it doesnt leak.... Check the gasket near the vtec selanoid, that is usually the 1st place an engine leaks.

 

it does leak a little, but not to a point where a whole 2 quarts of oil, cos leaking 2 quarts of oil will cause a puddle of oil under the car, rite?

But mabe its half leaking and half normal burning??

 

Is there white smoke all the time?

Are you sure that the engine isn't just leaking the oil?

Have you checked under the car?

Do you see oil anywhere?

If you see oil where is it?

Is the car a manual or automatic?

If it is a manual do you sometimes have problems with the clutch slipping around left hand turns?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naturally Aspirated &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it does leak a little, but not to a point where a whole 2 quarts of oil, cos leaking 2 quarts of oil will cause a puddle of oil under the car, rite?

But mabe its half leaking and half normal burning??
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this sounds a bit more accurate. Your probably not burning as much as you think, i thought that i was burning a lot of oil on my fresh GSR swap but it turns out that the VTEC solenoid was leaking and then one of my cam seals started leaking. It sounds like you need valve seals by the way. that would probably fix your consumption, but you should definetly fix the leak first and then you would know for sure how much you were burning.

 

and most cars, even new ones sometimes have blue smoke on start up.
cause the valve seals are sipped so that the oil gets into them valve seals to keep them from drying out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1). Is there white smoke all the time?

2). Are you sure that the engine isn't just leaking the oil?

3). Have you checked under the car?

4). Do you see oil anywhere?

5). If you see oil where is it?

6). Is the car a manual or automatic?

7).If it is a manual do you sometimes have problems with the clutch slipping around left hand turns?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1). No, only at cold start, and usually last around 5-15 mins

2).Not very sure, thats why I need a compression test, but still have got no time.

3). Yes, there are some oil stains around the block (just some oil stains though, not like a layer of oil), but definately not the oil pan area, looks like head gasket and below, but head gasket had been on there for only like 1 and 1/2 months.

4). Yes.

5).I see oil by the vtec soleniod, distributor area. But i also changed the vtec solenoid gasket not long ago. Also some oil stains as stated in answer #3

6). Car is B16a, so manual

7). No Problems at all, car rides real good, runs real strong, but oil disappearing..

 

Are there any oil stains near the bell housing?


And a compression test only takes about 15 minutes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naturally Aspirated &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
6). Car is B16a, so manual
</TD></TR></TABLE>

B16 doesn't automatically gaurantee you are manual, just so you know. How high are you revving this engine? Checked your PCV valve at all lately?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any oil stains near the bell housing?


And a compression test only takes about 15 minutes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
its just that I cant go to a shop, When I get off work, all the shops are closed..

 

1 quart every 1000 miles isn't too bad. I would live with it. Top off the oil at every fuel fill-up and it should be all right. If you keep driving it when it's 2 quarts low it isn't going to last very long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

B16 doesn't automatically gaurantee you are manual, just so you know. How high are you revving this engine? Checked your PCV valve at all lately?</TD></TR></TABLE>

noob quest whats the PCV valve??

 

positive crankcase ventilation