Installed a remote oil cooler/filter last year on the D16A6 powered CRX, set up for ITA. Plumbed the lines: Block----------->oil filter-------------> oil cooler------>block. I get great pressure (70 psig) and an additional 1.4L of capacity for cooling. The lines are all configured properly for the direction of flow on the block and filter. Check, rechecked, checked again.

Problem is when I shut off the motor, the oil in the remote system drains back into the pan. This results in the dash oil pressue light being on for 2-3 seconds upon startup and I can see it takes this amount of time for the electric pressure guage to read anything greater than 0 psig. The guage is set to read the oil pressure at the discharge of the oil filter, prior to the oil flowing into the cooler. After 5 seconds I've got the usual 70 pisg.

The top of oil filter is about 1" below the in/out ports on the block (and in a vertical rather than stock horizontal position) and the cooler, mounted horizontally, is about 3" below the block ports with the in/out ports on the cooler are at the top of the cooler rather than below.

I've installed systems like this before but not on Hondas. Never had start up issues like this and it scares me what damage I may be causing to the motor. I run Mobil 1 exclusively.

Has anyone had this issue before and did you solve it ? I'm wondering if I should plumb the oil filter AFTER the cooler to stop the siphoning effect.?

Robert J.

 

You should have the filter before the cooler. There's nothing wrong with that, and it keeps junk from getting in the grid.
I never had the problem except when I change the oil, but thats normal, my cooler is below the filter though. I guess the simple fix would be to but a "sink trap" in the lines to keep it from flowing back, or maybe even a one way check valve. A bit extreme I guess, but thats what I can think of. I take it this is rigged up with a sandwich plate and not a remote filter plate right?

 

My system drains back into the pan too, which took some trial and error to learn how to get an accurate oil level reading!

The oil flow path is like so:

Pan, pick up, oil pump, bearings, out of block to oem filter (or to external loop to filter/cooler if installed) back in block, up the cylinder head supply galley (the OEM dash sender taps this galley) to cams and rockers, then drains back to pan... Thus the bearings are safe from starvation at start-up if your cooler lines are empty. The filter/cooler, cyl head, and the guage & light senders are seeing the momentary delay in pressure, which isn't ideal, but nothing to worry about.

The good thing about having the sender out at he remote filter, or even in the oem location is that you'll get a warning light if your filter falls off, or you blow a cooler hose, while the bearings will be protected for a few seconds until the pan goes dry.
Shut it off quick!

 

Thanks for the assistance, especially the info on the oil flow. I'm using a remote oil filter plate and not a sandwich plate.

I had thought about the check valve and know that Moroso makes one for about $50. However, the flow must be siphoning in the pumped direction because if it siphoned in reverse, wouldn't the remote filter stop the flow. [ I thought filters only flowed one direction ]. Thus a check valve won't make any difference.

What is a sink trap?

Thanks,

Robert J.

 

Here is a install article might help.

http://www.hybridgarage.com/te....html