Hey i want to buy new headers for my enigine what brand do u guys think might be the best to go for and what kind of torque\hp whold i be getting a increse of and they dont seem that hard to oput in are they?

 

first off, if you have headerS on your 94 ex, youve really done somethin.
second, do a search. you'll find that a header wont do much, insignificant power gains. and for the 5th gen ex, the stock header works good so theres not much need to go to anything else.

 

HAHAHAH....... he said "headers"

 

Dont listen to these guys. A good aftermarket header would give you the most gains aside from a new intake manifold(which are almost non-existant for the f22). I would suggest the Greddy stainless steel 4-2-1 from http://www.Prostreeonline.com I loved mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeIsCool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont listen to these guys. A good aftermarket header would give you the most gains aside from a new intake manifold(which are almost non-existant for the f22). I would suggest the Greddy stainless steel 4-2-1 from http://www.Prostreeonline.com I loved mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want a good intake mani, snag a Euro R or H series mani.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JakeIsCool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont listen to these guys. A good aftermarket header would give you the most gains aside from a new intake manifold(which are almost non-existant for the f22). I would suggest the Greddy stainless steel 4-2-1 from http://www.Prostreeonline.com I loved mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy crap..do you not read any of the posts about how much you actually get from the whole I/H/E thing??? so much crap on it. you dont get jack w/the f22. a few hp that you cant feel isnt worth the money unless your after every single hp you can get and are into racing.

just make your car handle better man..unless your gonna throw a turbo or do some frankenstein thing, the f22 isnt a good platform for just basic bolt ons.
my .02

 

Guide to basic Accords

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vt4cPwn35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HAHAHAH....... he said "headers" </TD></TR></TABLE>

was that really necessary? Someone already corrected him, it was a little mistake. Like you never made a mistake. If your going to post atleast help the guy out instead of just flaming him.

 

ok cool thanks guys

 

Is it true that when u install an aftermarket header you actually can feel a difference driving on the highway??....i'm not looking to race or nething jus a fun daily driver.

 

ive seen SOHC accord 4cyls make 10ish whp with I/H/E...of those, headers are the most effective

 

actually intake is prolly the best value for ur $... i think u'll get more gain out of octane booster, rather then header/exhaust combo... if u want to stay N/A, your four best power upgraders for a STREET car are:

1. INTAKE
2. MILLED HEAD
3. CAM
4. FUEL MANAGEMENT( something u can dyno tune)

...so unless ur going turbo/nitrous, anything else is waste of cash....REALLY!!! dont let anybody else tell you otherwise...if someone says they got 10 hp out of header alone on your sohc i'll tell them theyr full of ****. sure the header will add you 1-2 whp(if that), exhaust another 2-3whp. but thats probably ONLY at high rpms, and at the expense of either low or midrange plus i always see guys slap on 2.5-3inch header back exhaust on their N/A set up whith a huge muffler and like 20 inch opening, and then bitch how theyr car is slower now then it was....DUH!!! FOR N/A we need backpressure to generate low/mid power/tourque which is essential for street car, unless of course ur going to turbo /nitrous later...if you're going to built a car, set a goal in your mind and start adding things to your car to help you reach that goal, not just expensive things you really dont need, or advertisers say give you this or that hp/tq. the hp/tq numbers that advertisers usually put in their adds are for either cars that already built, turbo, or with already high hp numbers as is. sure some exhaust might give you 15-20 hp, but on a car that is ALREADY 500 HP, you understand?! or sparkplugs, that give you 2-3 hp....ANYTIME YOU CHANGE YOUR OLD SPARKPLUGS WITH EVEN THE SAME ONES, U'LL GET 2-3 HP GAIN TOO!!!its just common sense....companies out there are to make $$$, its up to you to do EXTENSIVE, EXTENSIVE AND I CANNOT OVERSTATE IT...EXTENSIVE RESEARCH, from people that know what ther doing.
in your case, honda accords are not very well suited for racing or built...lets face it... they're heavy, and dont respond well to power adders( i know i'm going to get flamed for this), but our cars suck!!! sure there are few and in between people that managed to get respectable numbers out of their accords, but the amount of money they dumped into them is ridiculous, even the guy that managed to built 600 hp accord( with prelude powerplant may I add) only managed 11.92....and MOST(not all) turboed accord only manage low 14....and maybe, i mean MAYBY high 13 sec 1/4 mile times

So you want to make your car fun to drive, a little faster and dont want to spend?
work on your suspension, get intake, 2-2.25 inch exhaust from cat back, mill head a little, add a cam, cam gear, tune it up, and be done. then save some money and get an EVO, STI, TEG, or anything lightweight that you can stuff a bigger powerplant in good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by as_fast_as_u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually intake is prolly the best value for ur $... i think u'll get more gain out of octane booster, rather then header/exhaust combo... if u want to stay N/A, your four best power upgraders for a STREET car are:

1. INTAKE
2. MILLED HEAD
3. CAM
4. FUEL MANAGEMENT( something u can dyno tune)

...so unless ur going turbo/nitrous, anything else is waste of cash....REALLY!!! dont let anybody else tell you otherwise...if someone says they got 10 hp out of header alone on your sohc i'll tell them theyr full of ****. sure the header will add you 1-2 whp(if that), exhaust another 2-3whp. but thats probably ONLY at high rpms, and at the expense of either low or midrange plus i always see guys slap on 2.5-3inch header back exhaust on their N/A set up whith a huge muffler and like 20 inch opening, and then bitch how theyr car is slower now then it was....DUH!!! FOR N/A we need backpressure to generate low/mid power/tourque which is essential for street car, unless of course ur going to turbo /nitrous later...if you're going to built a car, set a goal in your mind and start adding things to your car to help you reach that goal, not just expensive things you really dont need, or advertisers say give you this or that hp/tq. the hp/tq numbers that advertisers usually put in their adds are for either cars that already built, turbo, or with already high hp numbers as is. sure some exhaust might give you 15-20 hp, but on a car that is ALREADY 500 HP, you understand?! or sparkplugs, that give you 2-3 hp....ANYTIME YOU CHANGE YOUR OLD SPARKPLUGS WITH EVEN THE SAME ONES, U'LL GET 2-3 HP GAIN TOO!!!its just common sense....companies out there are to make $$$, its up to you to do EXTENSIVE, EXTENSIVE AND I CANNOT OVERSTATE IT...EXTENSIVE RESEARCH, from people that know what ther doing.
in your case, honda accords are not very well suited for racing or built...lets face it... they're heavy, and dont respond well to power adders( i know i'm going to get flamed for this), but our cars suck!!! sure there are few and in between people that managed to get respectable numbers out of their accords, but the amount of money they dumped into them is ridiculous, even the guy that managed to built 600 hp accord( with prelude powerplant may I add) only managed 11.92....and MOST(not all) turboed accord only manage low 14....and maybe, i mean MAYBY high 13 sec 1/4 mile times

So you want to make your car fun to drive, a little faster and dont want to spend?
work on your suspension, get intake, 2-2.25 inch exhaust from cat back, mill head a little, add a cam, cam gear, tune it up, and be done. then save some money and get an EVO, STI, TEG, or anything lightweight that you can stuff a bigger powerplant in good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

very little of what you said was either:
true
relevant
application specific

 

maybe not relevant, but true

 

Not relevant or true.

 

hahahaha...I knew it....Accord owners HATE the truth about their cars....hahahaha. prove me wrong

 

from experience dont waste you money on that stuff, its worthless not even worth the 7hp or whatever gain...now that i am turboed i look back and realize intake, exhaust didn't do **** on my car, its still ***** slow turbo and was way slower back then. i guess cause i dont really hang out w/ any honda guys all my friends drive fast cars.

i say just buy a cheap ebay intake slap it on there it will make your car sound better, and just do a cheap exhaust system. dont expect any gains out of it though.

 

thank you...my point exactly...OUR CARS DONT RESPOND WELL TO POWER ADDERS, UNLESS YOU GO CRAZY AND SPEND $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $!!!!!! OR GO TURBO....BUT EVEN WITH TURBO ITS NOT THE SAME AS TURBO TEGRA OR B16 CIVIC WITH THE SAME BOOST LEVEL. please dont get pissed everyone...Im speaking from experience, not out of my ***...and i'm ONLY talking about our accords with SOHC engines, and NOT H22, H23, or any other exotic combinations....OF course there ARE exeptions to the rule, but their are only EXCEPTIONS, not the rule!!!!
the reason i said intake is the best for your $$$ is cuz it is!!! it costs 100-200$, will add5-7 hp...the header, on our cars wont do even close, maybe 2 hp and like i said, not all across the pwer band...it'll peak out somewhere in top rpm usually in the last 500 rpms or so, so stock header would outperform it on the STREET...yes i said street, cuz thats where most of us live and drive...Sure if you got full race ready accord with high compression internals, ported/milled head intake manifold, cam, etc, only then you might have need for a header.
just porting the head wont do much and actually lose intake velocity, UNLESS TURBO/NITROUS
getting bigger intake manifold will make you lose air velocity also, making it act slow of the start on the STREET...I said STREET once again and for N/A set up...not fully built engine thats cabable of supporting high rpm capabilities offered by bigger intake manifold.
For street use it is important, intake stays pressurized(thats the word i was looking for)...note:this does not apply to turbo/nitrous set up once again
milled head is cheaper, cost effective way to raise your compression SLIGHTLY, without tearing down the internals and spending mad $$$
cam will singlhandidly add 10-15 whp if not more(but it has to be properly tuned with cam gear and fuel management....I'm using Greddy E-manage...works for me
EXAust for N/A(not turbo) for OUR SOHC ACCORD has to be 2.25 at most 2.5 inch piping, so we can have backpressure, otherwise our cars wont move off the line

the most important thing to do after everything is in place is to have tunable engine management....probably the best bang/$$$ along with intake....THIS alone will add 3-7 hp across the power band and even more at some other points of power band. i've netted close to 14 hp during vtec switchover, and 4 whp across the power band

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96Sedan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it true that when u install an aftermarket header you actually can feel a difference driving on the highway??....i'm not looking to race or nething jus a fun daily driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if just want a more fun car to drive i would say go with a light weight flywheel ( i run a 14lb, stock is around 30 i believe) and a an aftermarket clutch ( i use exedy stage 1). felt a hell a lot quicker and pulls much harder everwhere in the powerband. plus now i can chirp going into second at will.

 

as fast as you

im not saying the f22b1 respnds well at all to bolt ons. search around and find a post ive made that ever says "go out and spend 1K on bolt ons, you'll be able to pull on STi's y0!!", because ive never said anything like that

what you siad IS untrue and irrelevant. if you want to make power out of your F, head work and a regrind arent gonna do **** for you. the f22 flows pretty well for a SOHC, talk to bisimoto about it. to make power NA you need either displacement, high revving or compression, and generally speaking you need 2 of those to make significant amounts. theres no reason to dump tons of money into an F unless you're going all out.

you might want to rethink the whole backpressure thing.....i dont think your really understand it that well.....

 

i'm sorry you think that way...maybe you can tell me how bolting on 3 inch exhaust header back is going to make your stock f22 N/A faster with no backpressure...better yet, please tell me thats the set up you running, cuz anybody that know whats going on are going to laugh at you...I will


oh...i forgot...i'm talking about gaining 35 whp out of setup i just listed above, and not spending too much money... sure u can always go FI, but thats a diff story...i said milling head will increase your compression SLIGHTLY...I did not say as much as some high comp pistons, etc... just read my post better

you know what...we are both really agreeing with each other, except you think milling head is not worth it....maybe so. its just when you install a cam, you have a chance to do a little grind, for cheap....i did not say port/polish. sure you can run 500 600 hp accord with no port/polish, but i think its safe to say it will be a little bit more powerful with it done.

and about backpressure.... you are flat out wrong....i'll bet you on identical set up with identical cars with only I/H/E on both, the car with 3 inch header back is going to loose to 2.25 inch header back on the street

and please dont tell me about any IF scenarios, i.e. if a guy is running a shot, or high compression pistons/rods combo....WE ARE TALKING ABOUT A GUY WHO JUST WANTS TO GO A LITTLE FASTER...and not (i assume) dump whole a lot of money on FI or high compression race set up...I just wanted to give him a sound advice




Modified by as_fast_as_u at 1:48 PM 7/2/2005

 

acutally i have a stock header, cat to 60mm piping (2.37") via an RS*R exmag.....i wrote the writeup on exhaust systems in teh basic guide back when i knew very little about cars (still do), because i reasearhced the hell out of it from reading technical posts, peoples experiences, and indeendant experiaments/data from all over the intraweb

about backpressure:
there really is no right or wrong, because it can be different application to application, and even between 2 of the exact same model. from what ive read/experienced, its a combitination of exhaust gas velocity, resonance, and backpressure.....you dont want tons of backpressure...thats not exactly what helps make torque. think, if you had a huge wall of backpressure, its like trying to exhale into an atmosphere that has a higher gas pressure than your lungs.....EGV needs to be high enough to not cause a "traffic jam" of gases inside piping, and proper resonance can help to suck out nearly all gases out of the combustion chamber through the exhaust valve (residiual burnt air/fuel mixture is always leftover after the exhaust valves shut)

yea, generaly, we are saying the same things, im just having some petty disagreements about some of the more detailed things you said, that in actualiy, weren't the questions poesed by the creator

 

sorry to thread jack but since we're on headers.. does any1 know or have a pda/ write up on how to remove the stock header from 96?.. also do headers build up carbon on the inside like the egr ports? if so would i tbe agood idea to clean them out?

 

yea...i understand the whole concept about backpressure, its just for our stock f22 f23 you dont want to go above 2.5 inch piping, unless u push extra 100+ ponies...its fawking weird how we had to explain **** to each other when we both are talking about the same thing, +/- tenth of an inch....lol

BTW my car will still beat yours...lol

 

jsut give it up.. ..now does any1 have the info? i looked at it is it jsut the 2 bolts in the back

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by as_fast_as_u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BTW my car will still beat yours...lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

hell yea, my car is slow as ****

i believe its 6 bolts.....they shouldn't build up carbon...remember the runners are basically always filled with fire, so no carbon can deposit