How do you know what you need if I wanted to get a unit? I went to the site a few times, but can't really grasp the idea around it..... I hear a lot of people here have been getting ,or are about to get the hondata2b? If I install a turbo, and then get all the pretty gauges, ha ha, setting the proper a/f ratio , ( with some NICE gauges) ((fuel pressure riser, fuel gauge, new injectors, all that jazz)) everyone's saying that I can't run that with a stock computer? Is that because stock Honda ECU's cant read boost? Well what is theworst that could happen? I really am not looking to spend a lot of money on the computer,(~$500?) but if it helps....
What should i do?

 

I have OBD II by the way

 

the standard honda ecu cannot read boost. if it sees boost, it will throw a CEL. hondata simply does this: it's not a piggyback computer, but replaces the eeprom of the standard honda unit with its owns. the hondata can read boost, retard timing, has custom fuel maps, etc. you need to get a hondata tuned to get the most power out of your setup. you will need a 1:1 rise rate FPR (AEM, Vortech, Aeromotive), 440cc or comparable injectors, an OBD1 ECU to use with the rom (since OBD2 is hard to chip), a OBD2 to OBD1 conversion harness, and a (recommended) upgraded fuel pump. plus the hondata stage 2b or whatever you're getting. with a hondata, there is no need for a VAFC/SAFC, check valves/MAP bypass, BTM, the alphabet soup crap.

 

assuming you get your car tuned ON A DYNO (you can't set the proper a/f ratio with just some nice gauges), the worst that can happen is that your car's driveability isn't perfect, and it bogs or does weird things on occasion. Keep in mind though, that for your car to work great you're gonna want to get bigger injectors, an FMU (like vortech), an FPR, a VAFC, maybe a BTM, and maybe a J&S. Getting a standalone doesn't cost a whole heck of a lot more than the above....

oh yeah and the worst that can happen if your car isn't tuned right or if you turn up the boost is that you blow your engine and have to spend $1000 or more to fix it.

-Xerxes

 

Cyan1de, What about using the missing link MAP bypass valve, maybe then the compter won' see boost???? or i'm I retarded

 

Exactly. I wont be needing mine after my Hondata comes in hmmm maybe you will want to buy it.

Without getting too technical, what the hondata will allow you to do is boost more than an fpr cause it has more tuning options. You also wont need anything more than injectors, pump and 1:1 fpr. If you dont plan on going more than 15lbs of boost then an fpr w/VAFC, bypass valve etc will suffice. However if you want to reach around 20lbs then switch to hondata. If you want to go higher and want the optimum tuning capabilities then a standalone like haltech E6k, DFI etc. However you have to see what the shops around you can tune those standalones correctly. Finding someone good around you will prob persuade you to get one FMS than the other. Good luck


[Modified by SO3Burner, 4:04 AM 2/14/2002]

 

If I was using an fmu, I probably wouldn't run anymore than say 7 -8 psi depending on my fuel pressure and rise rate, and it would only be temporary until I had a Hondata. If I was gonna go any higher than 8 psi I would invest in a hondata, and skip the piggy back stuff altogether.

 

yea unless youre going to get really serious about racing you dont need a standalone with all maximum tuning capabilities. BTW hondata 2b or 3b might not be good for 20lbs. That might be getting a little high. Maybe 18 or less? I'll let you know when I put mine in, get it tuned and motor is broken in.

 

Just wondering, but what types of problems would you run into after 20lbs.? I think Hondata can read up to 29lbs. but thats probably pushing it regardless.

 

TUNED PROPERLY, Hondata can provide fueling for up to 29psi.
Whether your motor can handle it, is another story.