How much do LCA's improve handling?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allanonjj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um......ok,... then why do they make aftermarket LCA's? Im always hearing ppl on this forum talking about different LCA's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
why do they make aluminum oil caps???
why do they make aluminum oil caps???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it a joke ?
the only thing they do is to look great.... and maybe they are lighter. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They also come with swaybar attachment points which is why I think most people go with them, they are cheaper than OEM peices......usually.
the only thing they do is to look great.... and maybe they are lighter. </TD></TR></TABLE>
They also come with swaybar attachment points which is why I think most people go with them, they are cheaper than OEM peices......usually.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allanonjj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um......ok,... then why do they make aftermarket LCA's? Im always hearing ppl on this forum talking about different LCA's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They make aftermarket **** for a lot of things, does all of that stuff server a purpose besides look good? No.
They make aftermarket **** for a lot of things, does all of that stuff server a purpose besides look good? No.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_demon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They also come with swaybar attachment points which is why I think most people go with them, they are cheaper than OEM peices......usually.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the answer I was looking for. So now I dont have to drill holes for a rear sway bar right?
They also come with swaybar attachment points which is why I think most people go with them, they are cheaper than OEM peices......usually.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats the answer I was looking for. So now I dont have to drill holes for a rear sway bar right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allanonjj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats the answer I was looking for. So now I dont have to drill holes for a rear sway bar right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct. I have the Function7 LCAs, costly but VERY nice.
thats the answer I was looking for. So now I dont have to drill holes for a rear sway bar right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct. I have the Function7 LCAs, costly but VERY nice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_demon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They also come with swaybar attachment points which is why I think most people go with them, they are cheaper than OEM peices......usually.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't be so sure. So far, the function 7 LCAs are the ONLY LCAs I've seen that actually put the swaybar attachment point in the correct location for the EF/EG/DC chassis. Try using an OEM integra rear sway bar on your civic with some omni/megan/k-sport crap. Your gonna figure out real quick that the angles are totaly fucked up because they put the holes in the EK location...
Either buy Function 7, or new/used OEM. You cannot beat the OEM quality though...
Modified by 94eg! at 2:35 PM 6/27/2005
They also come with swaybar attachment points which is why I think most people go with them, they are cheaper than OEM peices......usually.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't be so sure. So far, the function 7 LCAs are the ONLY LCAs I've seen that actually put the swaybar attachment point in the correct location for the EF/EG/DC chassis. Try using an OEM integra rear sway bar on your civic with some omni/megan/k-sport crap. Your gonna figure out real quick that the angles are totaly fucked up because they put the holes in the EK location...
Either buy Function 7, or new/used OEM. You cannot beat the OEM quality though...
Modified by 94eg! at 2:35 PM 6/27/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't be so sure. So far, the function 7 LCAs are the ONLY LCAs I've seen that actually put the swaybar attachment point in the correct location for the EF/EG/DC chassis. Try using an OEM integra rear sway bar on your civic with some omni/megan/k-sport crap. Your gonna figure out real quick that the angles are totaly fucked up because they put the holes in the EK location...
Either buy Function 7 (if you've got money to waste), or new/used OEM. You cannot beat the OEM quality though...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the F7s and I never specified they were in the stock locations, just that they had holes for swaybar attachments.
Don't be so sure. So far, the function 7 LCAs are the ONLY LCAs I've seen that actually put the swaybar attachment point in the correct location for the EF/EG/DC chassis. Try using an OEM integra rear sway bar on your civic with some omni/megan/k-sport crap. Your gonna figure out real quick that the angles are totaly fucked up because they put the holes in the EK location...
Either buy Function 7 (if you've got money to waste), or new/used OEM. You cannot beat the OEM quality though...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the F7s and I never specified they were in the stock locations, just that they had holes for swaybar attachments.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4door_demon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have the F7s and I never specified they were in the stock locations, just that they had holes for swaybar attachments.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, I didn't mean to sound like a jerk.
It just makes me mad how those other aftermarket companies sell crap that has been engineered incorrectly, so I always get my panties into a bunch when talking about aftermarket LCAs...
PS: The F7's are the only ones I've seen that are made correctly...
I have the F7s and I never specified they were in the stock locations, just that they had holes for swaybar attachments.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Sorry, I didn't mean to sound like a jerk.
It just makes me mad how those other aftermarket companies sell crap that has been engineered incorrectly, so I always get my panties into a bunch when talking about aftermarket LCAs...
PS: The F7's are the only ones I've seen that are made correctly...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do they make aluminum oil caps??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
So you can burn your hand on the hot metal oil cap, and maybe cut a finger on a sharp, non-radiused edge on the bottom side. I lost 5 minutes in a enduro pit stop because the only oil cap we had available before that weekend was a bling billet cap. Came into the pits for fuel and tires and crew decided to check the oil during the stop. Cap was so hot the crewman burned a hand and dropped the cap into the engine bay and no one could find it. I had to unbuckle and help them look, finding it in the bottom of the fan shroud eventually. Plastic cap for me from now on.
There are a number of parts that people sell because people will buy them, not becasue you need them.
So you can burn your hand on the hot metal oil cap, and maybe cut a finger on a sharp, non-radiused edge on the bottom side. I lost 5 minutes in a enduro pit stop because the only oil cap we had available before that weekend was a bling billet cap. Came into the pits for fuel and tires and crew decided to check the oil during the stop. Cap was so hot the crewman burned a hand and dropped the cap into the engine bay and no one could find it. I had to unbuckle and help them look, finding it in the bottom of the fan shroud eventually. Plastic cap for me from now on.
There are a number of parts that people sell because people will buy them, not becasue you need them.
I guess a benefit of the aluminum LCAs is the slight lessening of unsprung weight. On a street car with full interior and heavy wheels and tires, it isn't worth it. On a racecar with the "whole nine" done to it, it might be worth it. That is IF the correct suspension geometry is kept.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dustin L »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess a benefit of the aluminum LCAs is the slight lessening of unsprung weight. On a street car with full interior and heavy wheels and tires, it isn't worth it. On a racecar with the "whole nine" done to it, it might be worth it. That is IF the correct suspension geometry is kept.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the reduction in unsprung weight would make your rear suspension move up and down quicker, just like how overall reduction in weight makes your car quicker.
the reduction in unsprung weight would make your rear suspension move up and down quicker, just like how overall reduction in weight makes your car quicker.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ^^whatnoobsearchthenGTFO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the reduction in unsprung weight would make your rear suspension move up and down quicker, just like how overall reduction in weight makes your car quicker.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^
the reduction in unsprung weight would make your rear suspension move up and down quicker, just like how overall reduction in weight makes your car quicker.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^
Uh, only half the weight of your LCA is actually un-sprung. So take any amount of weight reduction that you thought you were getting, and cut it in half...
Half is better than none and when combined with lightweight wheels and coilover that weigh half as much as stock then you might just have a significant weight reduction.
The only thing about this whol lca deal is that imo the rear suspension already moves much faster than the front as it is and that any handling increases would likely be better gained by making the front suspenion lighter and or taking weight off the front of the car.just a thought
The only thing about this whol lca deal is that imo the rear suspension already moves much faster than the front as it is and that any handling increases would likely be better gained by making the front suspenion lighter and or taking weight off the front of the car.just a thought
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noob4life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I've seen, most coilovers do not weight much less than stock. Maybe a few pounds, but never half. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Depends on what material they are constructed from. Aluminum-bodied shocks weigh very little compared to stock, add a shorter, smaller spring, and it adds up.
Now, the benefits of that aren't really worth it for most, so it's not a huge deal.
Depends on what material they are constructed from. Aluminum-bodied shocks weigh very little compared to stock, add a shorter, smaller spring, and it adds up.
Now, the benefits of that aren't really worth it for most, so it's not a huge deal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allanonjj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it a dramatic increase in stability? What should I expect (I just got my Ksports)? Rougher ride? Spinout in turns? What are the pro's? con's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
to answer your question directly, the difference would be in new bushings and thats pretty much it.
to answer your question directly, the difference would be in new bushings and thats pretty much it.
Aaah yes, aluminum shocks. From what I have been *told*, aluminum is not a suitable material for shocks intended for daily driving due to the fact that they are much more prone to breaking than steel. "Much more" meaning "enough to make them too risky to produce and sell". I'll see if I can get more substantial info to support this, but can anyone shed some light on this? If they are indeed so prone to breaking, why would companies produce these, especially for race cars?





