So I want to bleed my brakes; but so tired of pump release, pump release, etc.... Thus, I'm thinking about a power bleeder as such

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

but kind of expensive at between 60-80 bucks.

So I was wondering if the following item would work?


It's a garden sprayer. I was thinking about cutting the sprayer part off and epoxing the hose to a flat piece of metal then put metal over brake resavor with a gasket and pumping up the pressure.

Do you guys think this will work? That thing is $10 plus metal piece and gasket can't be more than $20, save $40-$60. The power bleeder says 15 -20 psi is enough. Could the garden sprayer hold enough pressure? Let me know what you guys think, I need to bleed my brakes soon.

 

20 PSI will make that thing a-splode. What is wrong with the old fashioned method? Do you bleed that many brakes a day?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do you bleed that many brakes a day?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really, just lazy, and I want to do it by myself. But are you sure the thing will blow up? It looks and feels pretty solid. I went to homedepot to see how sturdy they are. Have your seen or heard about one exploding under that kind of pressure?

 

What would happen to plastic charge piping at 20 PSI?

What you need to do is buy the inexpensive self-bleeder screws. They have a check valve so you can just pump your brakes and not worry about releasing and getting air back in teh lines.

 

i bled my brakes the other day, me and a friend, took like 10 minutes with this brake bleeder suction\resovoir handheld thing. its my dad's ill find out where he got it, its actually for bleeding brakes, not gardens :-P

 

you should always gravity bleed.

there is no better way to remove all the air in the system.

 

Honestly, if you're that cheap just try sucking on the end of the bleeder.

MityVac

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
MityVac </TD></TR></TABLE>

introducing air into the system.

mmm...counter-productive

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly, if you're that cheap just try sucking on the end of the bleeder.

MityVac </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not about being cheap. It's more about not getting ripped off. Ever notice the power bleeder they sell for $60-$80 looks awefully like the garden sprayer, minus some trinkets, like the connector and the pressure gauge. Why do I want to pay the $40 premium if it is the same thing. This was the reason I asked this question in the first place.

Will the garden sprayer handle 10-20 psi. If so, it works. I know about vaccum bleeding, (mixed reviews here and on team-integra, and limited to theortical atomspheric 14.7). I know about gravity bleeding, again it has issues. Most people say power bleeding (pressure bleeding) is better, except for the seal problem with the resavior, but the name brand power bleeder has the same issues. Thus, I ask. Thx for everyone's input.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

introducing air into the system.

mmm...counter-productive </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's odd that I can use it and then hand bleed it afterwords and there aren't residual air bubbles. Odd, very odd. Or maybe it just works

Why do you think it adds air into the brakeline?

 

read Tilton's disertation on brake bleeding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">read Tilton's disertation on brake bleeding.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you got a link?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vanilla Sky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you got a link?</TD></TR></TABLE>

have the whole thing.

The following is based on recommendations made by brake guru Mac Tilton. Mac is best known as the man that brought Carbon pads and rotors to racing. He is also the owner of Tilton Engineering; one of the main suppliers of brakes and clutches to Indy and F-1. I have added some things based on my own experiences also.

When bleeding brakes it is best to manually bleed them as pressure bleeders can cause cavitation and bubbles inside the system. Empty the brake reservoir with a turkey baster then fill the reservoir with a high quality brake fluid. Start bleeding at the furthest wheel away from the M/C and progress to the closest. So that would go RR, LR, RF, LF. Attach a length of clear Tigon tubing (available form any auto parts store) to the bleeder nipple, put the other end of the line into some sort of container so the other end will be submerged in brake fluid and open the nipple. Have someone in the car to pump the brakes. Slowly pump all of the old fluid out of the line until new clear fluid comes out, then have the person in the car hold the pedal down while you close the bleeder. Have the person lift the pedal up slowly and then push down slowly while you open the nipple. You have to communicate with the pumper because the bleeder should only be open on the down stroke of the brake pedal. It is important to pump slowly to avoid bubble-forming cavitation. Continue to pump until you cannot observe any bubbles in the clear Tigon tube.

Get a rubber mallet and tap the caliper to dislodge any bubbles that may be stuck inside the caliper and bleed some more until no more bubbles come out. Do this at all the wheels and you are done. Be careful not to let the reservoir run dry or you will have to start all over. On ABS equipped cars you want to be extra careful about this because it takes forever and a lot of fluid to bleed a completely dry ABS system. Some ABS cars require bleeding from nipples on the ABS modulator so check your manual.

 

Seems to me that is more referencing the pumps which are placed in place of the master cylinder cap which pushes fluid through the system, not one like the MityVac that pulls the fluid through the system. As long as you don't let the master cylinder go dry there is no way to ' introduce air into the system '.