problem with my lude. how do i fix this?
1993 lude with h23 non vtec it has 185000km .this doesnt happen all the time. and it mainly happens in hot weather for some reason. but i will start my car and it jus wont start. like the starter will go and everything but it just wont start. and sometimes if it does start, if i dont give it a shot of gas right away the rpms will drop so low that it will shut off on me emmidiatly after starting it. and if i leave just the battery on. on the dash the oil light and battery light will stay on. my oil if fine and its all there and so is my battery.. how do i fix this weired problem?
It's your main relay most likely!
PARAMETERS FOR REPLACEMENT
The main relay actually contains two individual relays. The first relay is energized whenever the ignition switch is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is energized for two seconds when the ignition switch is on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.
When the main relay is at fault, the engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. Continual cranking will only make the situation worse, with the engine not firing at all in the end. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the Check Engine indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.
The main relay is usually located near the fuse box, mounted on a bracket; behind a storage compartment etc. When you have a problem with the main relay, thumping this part of the dash, it is likely that the car will spring into life again as the joint is disturbed, unless the problem is severe.
The joint in the above-mentioned is a dry joint in the main relay, which can cause an intermittent or no connection. The main relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. With no power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere! Dry joints are common in older or early production Honda Acura main relays due to lack of soldering quality control in the factory.
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PARAMETERS FOR REPLACEMENT
The main relay actually contains two individual relays. The first relay is energized whenever the ignition switch is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is energized for two seconds when the ignition switch is on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.
When the main relay is at fault, the engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. Continual cranking will only make the situation worse, with the engine not firing at all in the end. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the Check Engine indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.
The main relay is usually located near the fuse box, mounted on a bracket; behind a storage compartment etc. When you have a problem with the main relay, thumping this part of the dash, it is likely that the car will spring into life again as the joint is disturbed, unless the problem is severe.
The joint in the above-mentioned is a dry joint in the main relay, which can cause an intermittent or no connection. The main relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. With no power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere! Dry joints are common in older or early production Honda Acura main relays due to lack of soldering quality control in the factory.
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I don't mean to hijack the thread but my car has the same symptoms. Sometimes if I let it sit for a while, it'll start back up. My problem is that my main relay isn't installed. A while ago, my friend checked my fuses when my parking light wouldn't come on and the main relay fell out from near the fusebox and dead pedal. It seems that the main relay was replaced with a fuse by the previous owner because there's a fuse in that area that doesn't belong and no main relay. Is it safe to drive like this? How much would it cost for somebody to rewire the main relay and fix it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shdriver99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's your main relay most likely!
PARAMETERS FOR REPLACEMENT
The main relay actually contains two individual relays. The first relay is energized whenever the ignition switch is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is energized for two seconds when the ignition switch is on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.
When the main relay is at fault, the engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. Continual cranking will only make the situation worse, with the engine not firing at all in the end. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the Check Engine indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.
The main relay is usually located near the fuse box, mounted on a bracket; behind a storage compartment etc. When you have a problem with the main relay, thumping this part of the dash, it is likely that the car will spring into life again as the joint is disturbed, unless the problem is severe.
The joint in the above-mentioned is a dry joint in the main relay, which can cause an intermittent or no connection. The main relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. With no power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere! Dry joints are common in older or early production Honda Acura main relays due to lack of soldering quality control in the factory.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sweet man thanks for the help. but why is this happening only once in a while? if something is wrong shouldnt it happen all the time?
PARAMETERS FOR REPLACEMENT
The main relay actually contains two individual relays. The first relay is energized whenever the ignition switch is on which supplies battery voltage to the ECU, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. The second relay is energized for two seconds when the ignition switch is on, and when the engine is running which supplies power to the fuel pump.
When the main relay is at fault, the engine will usually fire, run for a split second and then stall, as the remaining fuel under pressure is used up. Continual cranking will only make the situation worse, with the engine not firing at all in the end. When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) you should see the Check Engine indicator on the dash light up and extinguish. Exactly timed with this lamp, you should hear a click and the fuel pump turn on and off. If you do not hear a click and the fuel pump, then the main relay is likely to be at fault.
The main relay is usually located near the fuse box, mounted on a bracket; behind a storage compartment etc. When you have a problem with the main relay, thumping this part of the dash, it is likely that the car will spring into life again as the joint is disturbed, unless the problem is severe.
The joint in the above-mentioned is a dry joint in the main relay, which can cause an intermittent or no connection. The main relay controls power to the ECU, and the fuel pump. With no power to the rest of the fuel-injection system, or fuel pump, you won't be going anywhere! Dry joints are common in older or early production Honda Acura main relays due to lack of soldering quality control in the factory.
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</TD></TR></TABLE>
sweet man thanks for the help. but why is this happening only once in a while? if something is wrong shouldnt it happen all the time?
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