Leaky master cylinder?
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Amherst, MA, USA
Leaky master cylinder? (edit: More odd behavior)
So, I just got a really nice 1991 Accord Wagon today. Little bit of rear fender rot, but otherwise cherry. 120K and it still runs like Flojo. 
ANYHOW, I was driving my car home and noticed every once in a while, the break pedal will sink to the floor while I am breaking, or while I am stopped. It'll just sink right on down.
Before I go through the hassel of replacing my master cylinder (and I am specifically refereing to adjusting the piston), is there any other problem that might account for this behavior?
Thanks in advance.
Modified by exile29 at 10:01 AM 6/26/2005
ANYHOW, I was driving my car home and noticed every once in a while, the break pedal will sink to the floor while I am breaking, or while I am stopped. It'll just sink right on down.
Before I go through the hassel of replacing my master cylinder (and I am specifically refereing to adjusting the piston), is there any other problem that might account for this behavior?
Thanks in advance.
Modified by exile29 at 10:01 AM 6/26/2005
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Re: Leaky master cylinder? (s13_240sx_92)
wow, i have the problem too...seems like everyone is having this problem...mines a 95 with only 93K...i dunno for sure if its master cylinder tohugh, i bled my brakes and it felt really nice and firm for a few days and then problem cvame back..i dunt wunna go through the money and hassle(mostly money) of replacing MC..is there a real def way to check to see if its the MC?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 32
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From: Amherst, MA, USA
Re: Leaky master cylinder? (exile29)
Just thought I'd add: The problem only seems to happen AFTER my car has been running for a bit. Could this be the vaccum hose to the brake booster? I imagine the hose gets softer as the car gets hotter under the hood.
Anyhow, I looked around for 11/32 CID hose (not an easy thing to find) and I am going to try replacing that first. If the problem comes back after driving it for a while, then I guess it's time to replace the MC.
Anyhow, I looked around for 11/32 CID hose (not an easy thing to find) and I am going to try replacing that first. If the problem comes back after driving it for a while, then I guess it's time to replace the MC.
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From: New England, USA
Re: Leaky master cylinder? (exile29)
Someone should generate a "sticky" for this subject considering how many threads have broched this subject during the last three months (lol). I think some of us have programmed macro's so we can avoid finger strain with all this typing :-)
Not that I blame the "new to the forum", but a "sticky" at the beginning could save some poor soul the embarrasment of being flammed by one of the self appointed "keeper of the faith"
lets see now..... F1: Sinking Brake Pedal answer. F2: Broken Timing Belt answer.
P
deserthonda is correct; get ye to the autoparts store post haste!
Not that I blame the "new to the forum", but a "sticky" at the beginning could save some poor soul the embarrasment of being flammed by one of the self appointed "keeper of the faith"
lets see now..... F1: Sinking Brake Pedal answer. F2: Broken Timing Belt answer.
P
deserthonda is correct; get ye to the autoparts store post haste!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 32
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From: Amherst, MA, USA
Re: Leaky master cylinder? (P_Adams)
Well, it was the MC after all.
I removed the vaccum hose and heard a WOOSH as the air flooded into the system. That was a pretty clear indication to me that there wasn't a leak in the hose.
Soooo... I went to Autozone and got the MC (without reservoir. Can you believe the kit WITH the reservoir didn't have a core charge, was about $30 more?) and threw it on.
Cake walk! the MC had a pre-bleeding kit in the box which was a pretty nice touch.
I thought I might have to bleed the breaks afterwards, but I didn't. Pedal was nice and firm.
Now on to the belts!
What was that you were saying about the timing belt?
Guess I'll do a search.
I removed the vaccum hose and heard a WOOSH as the air flooded into the system. That was a pretty clear indication to me that there wasn't a leak in the hose.
Soooo... I went to Autozone and got the MC (without reservoir. Can you believe the kit WITH the reservoir didn't have a core charge, was about $30 more?) and threw it on.
Cake walk! the MC had a pre-bleeding kit in the box which was a pretty nice touch.
I thought I might have to bleed the breaks afterwards, but I didn't. Pedal was nice and firm.
Now on to the belts!
What was that you were saying about the timing belt?
Guess I'll do a search.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Amherst, MA, USA
Re: Leaky master cylinder? (goowakjai)
I went to my local Autozone and picked up:
1) FENCO_REMAN MASTER CYLINDER, Part # M52518 - $65.00
2) Pint of DOT 3 brake fluid - $5.00
3) Flare nut wrench (10mm?) so I can get a better grip on the line bolts. - $5.00
Pulling off the steel brake lines from the MC was a bit tricky. They are vertical, so you really don't have to worry about losing any fluid. The problem is, they don't have a lot of movement in them. You unscrew the retaining blots and SLOWLY but firmly pull out both lines (one at a time) enough to clear the lip of the input, then gently move it off to rest on the side facing the firewall (only enough to make sure you can pull out the MC later).
Bench bleeding the MC is fairly easy. There were instructions in the MC box as well as a bleeding kit. All you really need is a bit of patience because you don't want ANY bubbles in it. That means you need to depress the cylinder then let it out VERY slowly so the bubbles don't get sucked back into the MC. If you have a good helper (or great eyesight) you can even mount the MC on the booster, attach the parts to bleed it, fill the reservoir with brake fluid, and bleed it by pumping the break pedal (just remember the part about letting up slowly).
That's about it. Just remember to be very careful with the steel lines!
Good luck!
Modified by exile29 at 7:35 PM 6/26/2005
1) FENCO_REMAN MASTER CYLINDER, Part # M52518 - $65.00
2) Pint of DOT 3 brake fluid - $5.00
3) Flare nut wrench (10mm?) so I can get a better grip on the line bolts. - $5.00
Pulling off the steel brake lines from the MC was a bit tricky. They are vertical, so you really don't have to worry about losing any fluid. The problem is, they don't have a lot of movement in them. You unscrew the retaining blots and SLOWLY but firmly pull out both lines (one at a time) enough to clear the lip of the input, then gently move it off to rest on the side facing the firewall (only enough to make sure you can pull out the MC later).
Bench bleeding the MC is fairly easy. There were instructions in the MC box as well as a bleeding kit. All you really need is a bit of patience because you don't want ANY bubbles in it. That means you need to depress the cylinder then let it out VERY slowly so the bubbles don't get sucked back into the MC. If you have a good helper (or great eyesight) you can even mount the MC on the booster, attach the parts to bleed it, fill the reservoir with brake fluid, and bleed it by pumping the break pedal (just remember the part about letting up slowly).
That's about it. Just remember to be very careful with the steel lines!
Good luck!
Modified by exile29 at 7:35 PM 6/26/2005
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