Is a Torque wrench needed for installing clutch and flywheel?
Ok i just got my clutch kit and all. and im gona try to install it next weekend. i've been reading on how to install it on ur own, and some of the write-up's i've seen taht you don't need a torque wrench to install , but it would help if u had one. So im like debating in my mind if i needed one or not, so here i am on HT asking my fellow members.
well, in my mind anything that needs torque that is actually important (i can excuse valve cover bolts and stuff) gets torqued down. the old style torque wrenches are really cheap anyway.
Yeah you need a torque wrench..Dont want to over tighten important bolts like that..They're not very expensive..I got mine for $15 from jegs
think about this craftsmans tq wrench 50 or less is cheap ins. If you dont tq the bolts down you run the risk of them backing out because you didnt tq them down or you run the risk of breaking them. It will be cheaper to go buy a tq wrench than replacing a pressure plate flywheel or disk just because you didnt tq them down dont take the easy road out and not tq them down it spells bad newes down the road for you
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yeah you do have a point! i just came back from the Sears. Bought me a 121 tool peice set with tq wrench and im lovin it. haha gona start to install next friday, i will post up on it till then. -=D
i'll keep you guys updated, plus gona be my 1st time doing this so yeah!
good luck to me i guess. an dthanks guys for the input!
i'll keep you guys updated, plus gona be my 1st time doing this so yeah!
good luck to me i guess. an dthanks guys for the input!
Did you buy a clicker wrench or a beam and needle type wrench?
IMO the "clicker" type wrench is good for larger bolts, but for anything small or under 35 lb/ft it is easy to snap a small bolt. For things like valve covers, cam cap bolts or anything that you dont want to break a beam type torque wrench works better cause there is less chance of overtorqueing a bolt. I have both types, and they both come in handy.
beam type torque wrench

.
IMO the "clicker" type wrench is good for larger bolts, but for anything small or under 35 lb/ft it is easy to snap a small bolt. For things like valve covers, cam cap bolts or anything that you dont want to break a beam type torque wrench works better cause there is less chance of overtorqueing a bolt. I have both types, and they both come in handy.
beam type torque wrench

.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1289253
thats what happens when you overtighten important bolts...
thats what happens when you overtighten important bolts...
MAKE SURE TO ZERO OUT YOUR TORQUE WRENCH AFTER EVERY USE.
W/ the Clicker-types, you have to Zero them out (Set them to Zero) after every use, or it will become uncalibrated.
I forgot to do that to my 1st one...it's useless now...expecially since I dropped it.
BUT, Once my Stahlwille Torque wrench is delivered, there will be no need to Zero it out my wrench..EVER!
W/ the Clicker-types, you have to Zero them out (Set them to Zero) after every use, or it will become uncalibrated.
I forgot to do that to my 1st one...it's useless now...expecially since I dropped it.
BUT, Once my Stahlwille Torque wrench is delivered, there will be no need to Zero it out my wrench..EVER!
are you changing the flywheel if so a small piece of chain can be usedto hold it while you torque it down as well as the pressure plate just attach it to a bolt where the tranny attaches and to a pressure plate bolt
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you buy a clicker wrench or a beam and needle type wrench?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i got the clicker wrench.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheSSG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MAKE SURE TO ZERO OUT YOUR TORQUE WRENCH AFTER EVERY USE.
W/ the Clicker-types, you have to Zero them out (Set them to Zero) after every use, or it will become uncalibrated.
I forgot to do that to my 1st one...it's useless now...expecially since I dropped it.
BUT, Once my Stahlwille Torque wrench is delivered, there will be no need to Zero it out my wrench..EVER! </TD></TR></TABLE>
How do i set the tq wrench to zero? Never heard of this before.
i got the clicker wrench.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheSSG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MAKE SURE TO ZERO OUT YOUR TORQUE WRENCH AFTER EVERY USE.
W/ the Clicker-types, you have to Zero them out (Set them to Zero) after every use, or it will become uncalibrated.
I forgot to do that to my 1st one...it's useless now...expecially since I dropped it.
BUT, Once my Stahlwille Torque wrench is delivered, there will be no need to Zero it out my wrench..EVER! </TD></TR></TABLE>
How do i set the tq wrench to zero? Never heard of this before.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just return it to 0</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, you want to return it to the lowest setting. Remember that not all torque wrenches go down to zero.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO the "clicker" type wrench is good for larger bolts, but for anything small or under 35 lb/ft it is easy to snap a small bolt. For things like valve covers, cam cap bolts or anything that you dont want to break a beam type torque wrench works better cause there is less chance of overtorqueing a bolt. I have both types, and they both come in handy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I prefer click type torque wrenches for a good reason: they need not be viewed dead on to get accurate torque. In fact, is is not necessary to see them at all. This is a good thing if you are tightening something that is in such a position that the wrench will not be in plain view. As for overtightening, you just have to be careful to stop applying force after it clicks. Otherwise, it will continue to tighten the fastener.
Actually, you want to return it to the lowest setting. Remember that not all torque wrenches go down to zero.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO the "clicker" type wrench is good for larger bolts, but for anything small or under 35 lb/ft it is easy to snap a small bolt. For things like valve covers, cam cap bolts or anything that you dont want to break a beam type torque wrench works better cause there is less chance of overtorqueing a bolt. I have both types, and they both come in handy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I prefer click type torque wrenches for a good reason: they need not be viewed dead on to get accurate torque. In fact, is is not necessary to see them at all. This is a good thing if you are tightening something that is in such a position that the wrench will not be in plain view. As for overtightening, you just have to be careful to stop applying force after it clicks. Otherwise, it will continue to tighten the fastener.
over tightening the fasteners can lead to warping the flywheel too. i reccomend using locktite on the threads.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by explictness »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about a air ratchet and impact gun?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt use one of these to torque anything down. I would just use it to remove or "snug" the fasteners in place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by explictness »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about a air ratchet and impact gun?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt use one of these to torque anything down. I would just use it to remove or "snug" the fasteners in place.
say u use the wrench to torque something 70 lbs, when your done putt the torque all the way down to zero.
if you keep it on 70lbs it will eventually ruin the wrench
if you keep it on 70lbs it will eventually ruin the wrench
Use a quality Tq wrench if you want accurate results. I have ~$500 into just two TQ wrenches, and will probably double that over the next year.
Though for flywheel bolts I usually just red locktite and then bang on them with an impact
Though for flywheel bolts I usually just red locktite and then bang on them with an impact
he probably has a real torque wrench, i know it cost at least a hundred to re-calibrate a snap-on one
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by explictness »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still dont get how do i tq it back down to zero.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you rotate the handles end counter clockwise until it reaches 0 or its lowest setting.
you rotate the handles end counter clockwise until it reaches 0 or its lowest setting.
huh? Are there pose to be numbers on the tq wrench because if there is i don't have any on mines.
i still don't get how to tq it down to 0
i still don't get how to tq it down to 0
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont u just pay the 15 bux for a tool that will come in handy in the future as well, and do it right</TD></TR></TABLE>



