rod numbers
gotta question for yal, i just picked up some ls rods, and i got the rods and 2 rods have the number 3 on them and the other 2 have the number 2 on them, im guessing they are from two different ls motors. ok, now my question is im going o be getting these rods reconditioned and i was wondering if putting these on the crank would it mess anything up or are the numbers just given when you remove the pistons? i know when you go to acura to get new rods the rods dont have the number designations on them. these rods are going into a completetly different ls motor
BTW this motor build i didnt want to spend uber amount on it, so most of the money is going into the head, so if by chance the motor goes boom....i can still use the stuff out of the head
thx
BTW this motor build i didnt want to spend uber amount on it, so most of the money is going into the head, so if by chance the motor goes boom....i can still use the stuff out of the head
thx
You will be fine. Check the letters on the crank and then use the numbers on the rods to refer to the rod bearing chart in the Honda manual. Like I said , use it as a reference. Then plasticgage them and find you what you really need. Select the order you are going to use to run the rods first.
so the numbers on the rods dont matter?, just make sure i get the bearing clearances right for the journal i choose for them to go on? thank you for the help, i was just trying to figure it out because i was kinda scared that i might have not been able to use the rods and if i did, it wouldnt work right.
edit::....or maybe i just read that wrong, the numbers on the front on the big part of the rod is the refference to the bearing that goes to the rod?
....nvm i thought those numbers designated the rod to the cylinder...nvm....thanks hybrid
im gonna run the rods like this
from #1 cylinder to #4 3,2,3,2 and the crank reads b,c,b,b...so if everything comes into spec per the crank and rods i should need 3 greens and one yellow...i hope the acl bearings will handle this
Modified by projectTeG at 3:16 AM 6/25/2005
edit::....or maybe i just read that wrong, the numbers on the front on the big part of the rod is the refference to the bearing that goes to the rod?
....nvm i thought those numbers designated the rod to the cylinder...nvm....thanks hybrid
im gonna run the rods like this
from #1 cylinder to #4 3,2,3,2 and the crank reads b,c,b,b...so if everything comes into spec per the crank and rods i should need 3 greens and one yellow...i hope the acl bearings will handle this
Modified by projectTeG at 3:16 AM 6/25/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PURPLETERROR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could use the acl's for the greens, but i would buy 2 oem yellow bearing halves
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why, green and yellow are basically the same bearing! They are only .0001" difference of each other; and if you run the ACL standard "RACE" bearings, it will be like running all yellow due to the fact they do not have the coating on them.
Also I would have the rods weighed and make sure they are all within .5 grams of each other. If not, have them balanced.
And if you look at how the rods are positioned on the crank I would try the combos(Cylinder #1 to #4) 2,3,3,2 or 3,2,2,3. If that changes your bearing clearances too much than keep it as you plan for now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Why, green and yellow are basically the same bearing! They are only .0001" difference of each other; and if you run the ACL standard "RACE" bearings, it will be like running all yellow due to the fact they do not have the coating on them.
Also I would have the rods weighed and make sure they are all within .5 grams of each other. If not, have them balanced.
And if you look at how the rods are positioned on the crank I would try the combos(Cylinder #1 to #4) 2,3,3,2 or 3,2,2,3. If that changes your bearing clearances too much than keep it as you plan for now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why, green and yellow are basically the same bearing! They are only .0001" difference of each other; and if you run the ACL standard "RACE" bearings, it will be like running all yellow due to the fact they do not have the coating on them.
Also I would have the rods weighed and make sure they are all within .5 grams of each other. If not, have them balanced.
And if you look at how the rods are positioned on the crank I would try the combos(Cylinder #1 to #4) 2,3,3,2 or 3,2,2,3. If that changes your bearing clearances too much than keep it as you plan for now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i was planning on getting the rotating assembly balanced. would running it 2,3,3,2 be better than running 3,2,3,2? even if i get it balanced? thanks again for all the help. ill try and get numbers on the motor soon. also i read that the b16s and the ls motors share the same bearing size, if one is out of spec could i use a b16 bearing(trimetal) without any mods/?
Modified by projectTeG at 1:33 PM 6/25/2005
Why, green and yellow are basically the same bearing! They are only .0001" difference of each other; and if you run the ACL standard "RACE" bearings, it will be like running all yellow due to the fact they do not have the coating on them.
Also I would have the rods weighed and make sure they are all within .5 grams of each other. If not, have them balanced.
And if you look at how the rods are positioned on the crank I would try the combos(Cylinder #1 to #4) 2,3,3,2 or 3,2,2,3. If that changes your bearing clearances too much than keep it as you plan for now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea i was planning on getting the rotating assembly balanced. would running it 2,3,3,2 be better than running 3,2,3,2? even if i get it balanced? thanks again for all the help. ill try and get numbers on the motor soon. also i read that the b16s and the ls motors share the same bearing size, if one is out of spec could i use a b16 bearing(trimetal) without any mods/?
Modified by projectTeG at 1:33 PM 6/25/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yea i was planning on getting the rotating assembly balanced. would running it 2,3,3,2 be better than running 3,2,3,2? even if i get it balanced? thanks again for all the help. ill try and get numbers on the motor soon. also i read that the b16s and the ls motors share the same bearing size, if one is out of spec could i use a b16 bearing(trimetal) without any mods/?
Modified by projectTeG at 1:33 PM 6/25/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I just checked the bearing chart, your best bet is to run 3,2,3,2!
You can use B16 bearings or you can run ACL Race Bearings(standard). It's your choice.
yea i was planning on getting the rotating assembly balanced. would running it 2,3,3,2 be better than running 3,2,3,2? even if i get it balanced? thanks again for all the help. ill try and get numbers on the motor soon. also i read that the b16s and the ls motors share the same bearing size, if one is out of spec could i use a b16 bearing(trimetal) without any mods/?
Modified by projectTeG at 1:33 PM 6/25/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I just checked the bearing chart, your best bet is to run 3,2,3,2!
You can use B16 bearings or you can run ACL Race Bearings(standard). It's your choice.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont understand how u can dictate an order for trhe rods, when u have no idea off the journal size... can u elaborate, please?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are right, thats why I told him to plasticgage it! Other than that it is just me being ****! I am really picky for no reason.
You are right, thats why I told him to plasticgage it! Other than that it is just me being ****! I am really picky for no reason.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You are right, thats why I told him to plasticgage it! Other than that it is just me being ****! I am really picky for no reason.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man, styleteg's and your build inspired me to go allmotor with the ls. yea i figured that if i went with the 3,2,3,2 so i can stay hopefully within the specs of the greens, but ill know more when i get the machine work done to the crank and rods(recon. and micropolish and balance). but plastiguage is my friend
You are right, thats why I told him to plasticgage it! Other than that it is just me being ****! I am really picky for no reason.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man, styleteg's and your build inspired me to go allmotor with the ls. yea i figured that if i went with the 3,2,3,2 so i can stay hopefully within the specs of the greens, but ill know more when i get the machine work done to the crank and rods(recon. and micropolish and balance). but plastiguage is my friend
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thanks man, styleteg's and your build inspired me to go allmotor with the ls. yea i figured that if i went with the 3,2,3,2 so i can stay hopefully within the specs of the greens, but ill know more when i get the machine work done to the crank and rods(recon. and micropolish and balance). but plastiguage is my friend
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man, styleteg's and your build inspired me to go allmotor with the ls. yea i figured that if i went with the 3,2,3,2 so i can stay hopefully within the specs of the greens, but ill know more when i get the machine work done to the crank and rods(recon. and micropolish and balance). but plastiguage is my friend
</TD></TR></TABLE>
just thought about another thing, should my new cams be fine when i go to take the motor down and break it in? because i read that you need to break the cams in for 15-20 mins of 2000rpm, but the rings need to be seated quick.
and also on the stock rods and pistons the piston should move left and right on the rod right....i was told its called "ride" or something like that. and in order to install the type r pistons in need to take 36 thousanths off both sides of the rods right?
Modified by projectTeG at 2:10 AM 6/26/2005
and also on the stock rods and pistons the piston should move left and right on the rod right....i was told its called "ride" or something like that. and in order to install the type r pistons in need to take 36 thousanths off both sides of the rods right?
Modified by projectTeG at 2:10 AM 6/26/2005
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