Hi,
I purchased a pair of stage 2 OBX camshafts for my 97' prlude type SH. I have installed them and aftermarket and gears although I ended up loosing lowend power. There is really not any noticable gains.
My friend said that I should advance or retard the cam gears setting. Can you offer any imput on this topic for me? I just put over $2000 in parts into my vehicle and only lost power.
ON A SEPERARTE NOTE,
After installing my AEM EMS, my car suddenly just shuts off for no reason. It doesnt stall out(well it does that too). Does any one have any sugggestions as to what might be causing this to happen.
I cant believe I just blew all this $ to have can car act like crap.

 

tune tune tune dyno tuno, wait hold on, tune. You cant slap on cams, and camshafts, and expect gains. Same with a EMS. It doesnt pick the best setting for you. Hit up a dyno and get that bitch tuned. Let us know how those OBX products do in terms of power, and quality (how long they last =p).

 

Hi and thanks for the reply!
I have a few friends that built and race hondas (honda challenge?). I didnt trust anyone else to do the work. They set everything at 'safe' levels as they didnt want to ruin anything. they tuned it wil a wideband plugged into one laptop and the EMS into another.
I agree I should get to a dyno although as you probally know it is not cheap. And I paln on getting a blower soon. So if I were to go now then once I get the blower in I would have to go once again.
As far as OBX goes they are very cheap products designed after notable companys. i thought this was the way to go as I am not a serious racer. I ordered the follwoing parts from an OBX dealer: Intake manifold,high flow cat,plug wires, air filter and the cams.
the only parts worth keeping(or geting for that matter was the cat and the cams.
the intake manifold was chap but you have to drill and tap all your own air/vacuum lines The air filter lasted about a week on a car that did not even go out of the driveway, the glue they used was all over the filter and it ended up into two. the plugs did not fit although they were labeled for my car. Also I got a new muffler and it makes this nasty rattling sound when you hit certain rpms.
I am not one to pass judgment on something unless I really can vouge but the products I tried suck.

 

tuning isnt just for performance reasons, its so parts of your engine work under proper conditions and dont break down. Running lean / rich can do different amounts of damage to your engine (parts) or other parts in general

 

Sounds like your idle isn't tuned properly, I could only imagine the same for your fuel/ignition map.
I am running ITBs with AEM EMS, it took us many hours just to get the car idle and running smoothly. Don't expect the EMS to do magic if you dont plan to spend some time/money tunning it. I suggest you do some datalogging and dyno time to get your car running properly and driveable first, before you worry about the power gains.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludeshdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi,

After installing my AEM EMS, my car suddenly just shuts off for no reason. It doesnt stall out(well it does that too). Does any one have any sugggestions as to what might be causing this to happen.
I cant believe I just blew all this $ to have can car act like crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Like stated before, you need to get your car on a dyno
and find a good aem-ems tuner.

Yeah it's expensive, but it's cheaper than a new motor.

Do it right the first time

 

thanks for the imput!
I agree with the part about it not idling right as it idles at about 1400rpms. But what does this mean, I mean why would this effect the way it drives/performance?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VSBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am running ITBs with AEM EMS
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is "ITBs"?

Someone told me I may need some sort of new part to stop it from just suddenly just shutting off.
-Any suggestions as to what that may be?

-What about advancing/retarding trhe timing? If you but different cams in wouldnt you expect to change the cam gears?
thanks!

 

individual throttle bodies

 

The shutting off is most likely do to ignition switch, main relay, bad dizzy or fried coil and or igniter!

 

I know a great shop in ONEONTA.... and they sell air filters that dont fall appart ..haha

 

You need to make some adjustments on your EMS. More specifically...you need to go into AEM pro, and go to the idle tab.

From there, you will see a idle% table vs. Target table and a smaller graph that has target Idle RPM vs. Coolant Temperature.

1-warm up your car to operating temp.
2-set the FB below and FB above idle's to 400 RPM's both.
3-Now go to the idle vs coolant temp graph and click where the mouse on where you are operating at and press -/+ until you get to 800RPM's
4-Adjust the idle% table vs. Target table with -/+ similarly until the actual engine RPM is as close to the target idle RPM as possible.
5-repeat from 100RPM increments from 800-1500RPM.
6-make the rest of the RPM's that you didn't tune a nice slope that matches the part that you did tune.
7-Put the FB below and FB above idle's back to a value like 400 & 1100 respectively.
8-Set your idle target to whatever you want it to be at.

Hope that helps.