I'm breaking in my motor after a fresh rebuild and it's burning a little oil. Right now I'm running a JUN program as a base map until I hit 1000 miles to have it tuned. Would running really rich cause this? I was getting maybe 150 miles out of a tank and when I changed the oil at 200 miles it was really black. I was hoping that this was what's causing the oil to burn.

I've heard that if you run really rich, the gas will wash a lot of the oil out the cylinders. Would the gas thin out the oil and make it burn?

I changed the oil again today (500 miles) and it is still really black.

 

Im not sure about the running rich thing, but it could also be that its a fresh motor and they tend to burn oil and smoke when the rings are not yet broken in. Are you smoking as well?


Modified by one8toh8 at 5:06 PM 6/24/2005

 

Yeah it smokes, but the smoke is black and smells like fuel. It smokes the worst when I just start it up. After it's been run for a bit it almost goes away.

 

if the smoke is black then you are def running rich, have you done a cp test yet to see if the springs have seated yet, if not then i would check that out, and i would as look at the plugs, if there black change them, and then i would get it tuned asap, and change the oil, and plugs before you go to get it tuned, and good luck.

 

Running lean will cause you to burn oil fast, I haven't been running rich so I dont know about that.
Sounds like you're runnning pig rich, lean out the fuel and get your car tuned.



Modified by VSBB6 at 1:07 PM 6/24/2005

 

runnign rich WILL burn some oil ...if your runnign very very rich youll wash down the cyclinder walls wich will do 2 things

1. make breaking in the motor near impossible due to gas coating the sleeves

2.the gas will get into the oil suplpy thinning it out makeing it easier to get past the rings there fore burnign

ethier get ti tuned right away or dont drive ti till you can get it tuned ..you only get to break it in once and if its not done right youll regret it for as long as you own it

 

As said already DO NOT wait till 1000 miles to tune. The best way to break in a freshly built motor is to tune it on the dyno.

If you drive it around for 1000 miles running either too rich or too lean you are harming your motor and you will not get the full potential of the motor down the road.

 

I just had my car hooked up to a wide band and had the A/F ratio set, so i'm not running as rich any more. Still smokes at start-up, but goes away after it's driven a little. I was throwing a code 13 which is barometric pressure sensor. Would that still make it run rich?

I have a 255lph fuel pump with 310cc injectors and a Jun program for a basemap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one8toh8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not sure about the running rich thing, but it could also be that its a fresh motor and they tend to burn oil and smoke when the spinrgs are not yet broken in. Are you smoking as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think you mean rings not springs.

 

yeah type oh on my part thanks for see it

 

I thought if the rings don't seat after 20 miles, they'll never seat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blazin Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just had my car hooked up to a wide band and had the A/F ratio set, so i'm not running as rich any more. Still smokes at start-up, but goes away after it's driven a little. I was throwing a code 13 which is barometric pressure sensor. Would that still make it run rich?

I have a 255lph fuel pump with 310cc injectors and a Jun program for a basemap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What is your setup? 310's and a jun program is going to cause you to run extremely rich, along with a bad map sensor. Hopefully you didnt damage your rings/cyl walls by washing them down with to much fuel. change/flush your oil and filter with some non detergent 30w oil and drive it around to re seat the rings. Good luck

 

it takes alot of time for rings to seat. what break in method are you using? ,and like he said, use 30w non-detergent motor oil, the cheap ****..

 

The main parts in my set-up are

OBDI JDM GSR
.20" over 11:1 teflon/ceramic coated CP pistons
Alaniz head
Skunk intake manifold
Skunk valvetrain (not the valves)
Stage 1 cams
255lph fuel pump
310cc injectors
JDM OBDI P72 ECU
Hondata s100

I cranked the engine with the injectors unplugged for 30 seconds to get the oil pressure up. Then I let the engine warm up to operating temperature (about 20 mins). Then I changed the oil and oil filter. I ran it easy for a little bit, then I would do brief sprints up to 5k and let the engine slow the car back down. I changed the oil and filter at 200 miles, then again at 500. Then I had it hooked up to wideband and had the A/F ratio set. The whole time I've been running Valvoline 10w 30.

 

1 you should def do a compression test to see if the rings are seated, and then i would go from there.

And 2 you should def get it tuned asap. and on break in you should only run a non detergant motor oil for the first 1000 miles, it will help seat the rings faster.

 

running rich can cause you rings to never seat properly ... the abundant amount of fuel in the cylinder will cause the rings to "wash out"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one8toh8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and on break in you should only run a non detergant motor oil for the first 1000 miles, it will help seat the rings faster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, maybe that's where I messed up. I thought regular 10w 30 was a non detergant oil? Or should I be running straight 30 weight?

 

running rich is when your motor is getting too much gas and running lean is when its not getting enough gas? im asking beause my motor is smoking pretty bad also! i just got the bottom end rebuilt w/ ctr pistions! i got it tuned w/ hondata s200 and im still running stock injectors also??? what could be my problem HELP!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blazin Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok, maybe that's where I messed up. I thought regular 10w 30 was a non detergant oil? Or should I be running straight 30 weight?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, go to AutoZone and in the corner of the oil section you will find the automotive equivalent to Spam, ND-30. The ND is for non-detergent, it's in a no frills black and yellow bottle and the cheapest crap there.

P.S. , get it tuned now. Those injector and chip...you are probably running insanely rich. depending on the hone and the clearences yadda yadda, you may still be OK but are on your way to messing up your motor if you haven't already.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">running rich is when your motor is getting too much gas and running lean is when its not getting enough gas? im asking beause my motor is smoking pretty bad also! i just got the bottom end rebuilt w/ ctr pistions! i got it tuned w/ hondata s200 and im still running stock injectors also??? what could be my problem HELP!</TD></TR></TABLE>
anyone?