cv boot torn...what kind of labor involved?
Whats up Honda-Tech,
As the title says my cv boot is torn and there is grease all over the place. I was under my car yesterday changing my oil and there is grease all over the oil pan, alternator, and block.
So if you are sitting in the car the boot thats torn is the one on the left side of the tranny closest to the tranny. It is not all shredded up, it has a cut that wraps about 1/2 way around the boot.
How do i replace it? I have taken a knuckle off before because i had stripped studs....is the labor similar? What tools will i need? Once the boot is replaced do I have to fill it up with grease? Just random questions.
Thankfully i dont have to drive my car anywhere for a while, just need some direction on how to replace it.......maybe patch it?
but thats ghetto.
Any help is appreciatted, I searched but the only thing that would come up is crap on type r shift boots.
Oh yea, I have a B18B1 with the ls tranny and crx Si axels and knuckels.....let me know if you guys need anything else......
Thanks again and sorry so long
As the title says my cv boot is torn and there is grease all over the place. I was under my car yesterday changing my oil and there is grease all over the oil pan, alternator, and block.
So if you are sitting in the car the boot thats torn is the one on the left side of the tranny closest to the tranny. It is not all shredded up, it has a cut that wraps about 1/2 way around the boot.
How do i replace it? I have taken a knuckle off before because i had stripped studs....is the labor similar? What tools will i need? Once the boot is replaced do I have to fill it up with grease? Just random questions.
Thankfully i dont have to drive my car anywhere for a while, just need some direction on how to replace it.......maybe patch it?
but thats ghetto.Any help is appreciatted, I searched but the only thing that would come up is crap on type r shift boots.
Oh yea, I have a B18B1 with the ls tranny and crx Si axels and knuckels.....let me know if you guys need anything else......
Thanks again and sorry so long
to replace the inner boot, just take the axle out.
unstake the axle nut and remove it. expect to need a lot of torque. use a breaker bar.
break loose the lower balljoint and tie rod balljoint.
remove the axle.
remove the boot clamps to the inner cv joint.
remove the cv cup. clean it out.
reinstall in reverse order.
oem boot clamps can be reused if you do it carefully.
honestly tho. i would just replace the whole axle and not mess with all the grease and patching up a possibly worn axle.
unstake the axle nut and remove it. expect to need a lot of torque. use a breaker bar.
break loose the lower balljoint and tie rod balljoint.
remove the axle.
remove the boot clamps to the inner cv joint.
remove the cv cup. clean it out.
reinstall in reverse order.
oem boot clamps can be reused if you do it carefully.
honestly tho. i would just replace the whole axle and not mess with all the grease and patching up a possibly worn axle.
IMO, it's an unnecessary pain to replace the boot itself.
I'd go get a whole new axle from AutoZone (for a '90 teg w/o abs) for ~$60 and you've got a lifetime warranty.
*EDIT: Give up Tyson. Morons like me will take this thread
I'd go get a whole new axle from AutoZone (for a '90 teg w/o abs) for ~$60 and you've got a lifetime warranty.
*EDIT: Give up Tyson. Morons like me will take this thread
Thanks a lot guys.....if anyone else has any ideas let me know.
And is it ok to have one teg axel and another crx axel........i dont know probably a dumb question......but let me know.
Thanks again.
And is it ok to have one teg axel and another crx axel........i dont know probably a dumb question......but let me know.
Thanks again.
I replaced my axles last week.
Vegaskurt showed me how to change an axle w/o seperating the tie rod.
Here's what we did.
First break the axle nut. Remove the damper fork from the shock/lca. Seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. The axle is ready to come out now.
Took about 2.5 hrs including the trip to autozone. You'll need new cotter pins for reassembly.
Vegaskurt showed me how to change an axle w/o seperating the tie rod.
Here's what we did.
First break the axle nut. Remove the damper fork from the shock/lca. Seperate the ball joint from the knuckle. The axle is ready to come out now.
Took about 2.5 hrs including the trip to autozone. You'll need new cotter pins for reassembly.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahatma »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, it's an unnecessary pain to replace the boot itself.
I'd go get a whole new axle from AutoZone (for a '90 teg w/o abs) for ~$60 and you've got a lifetime warranty.
*EDIT: Give up Tyson. Morons like me will take this thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you used these axles personally? $60 is the remanufactured ones correct? I have heard that these make noise and aren't real quality. I know they are only $60 but is it worth it to go more pricey from like raxles or OEM, then to get some junky stuff that's gonna sound/work like crap?
I'd go get a whole new axle from AutoZone (for a '90 teg w/o abs) for ~$60 and you've got a lifetime warranty.
*EDIT: Give up Tyson. Morons like me will take this thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>Have you used these axles personally? $60 is the remanufactured ones correct? I have heard that these make noise and aren't real quality. I know they are only $60 but is it worth it to go more pricey from like raxles or OEM, then to get some junky stuff that's gonna sound/work like crap?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahatma »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, it's an unnecessary pain to replace the boot itself.
I'd go get a whole new axle from AutoZone (for a '90 teg w/o abs) for ~$60 and you've got a lifetime warranty.
*EDIT: Give up Tyson. Morons like me will take this thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd go get a whole new axle from AutoZone (for a '90 teg w/o abs) for ~$60 and you've got a lifetime warranty.
*EDIT: Give up Tyson. Morons like me will take this thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to replace the inner boot, just take the axle out.
unstake the axle nut and remove it. expect to need a lot of torque. use a breaker bar.
break loose the lower balljoint and tie rod balljoint.
remove the axle.
remove the boot clamps to the inner cv joint.
remove the cv cup. clean it out.
reinstall in reverse order.
oem boot clamps can be reused if you do it carefully.
honestly tho. i would just replace the whole axle and not mess with all the grease and patching up a possibly worn axle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no no, UPER ball joint, Removing that lower ball joint is a bitch and you still wont have enough space. Remove the uper ball joint, that will alow you to pull the knuckle down far enough to pulll the axle out of the kuckle.
unstake the axle nut and remove it. expect to need a lot of torque. use a breaker bar.
break loose the lower balljoint and tie rod balljoint.
remove the axle.
remove the boot clamps to the inner cv joint.
remove the cv cup. clean it out.
reinstall in reverse order.
oem boot clamps can be reused if you do it carefully.
honestly tho. i would just replace the whole axle and not mess with all the grease and patching up a possibly worn axle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no no, UPER ball joint, Removing that lower ball joint is a bitch and you still wont have enough space. Remove the uper ball joint, that will alow you to pull the knuckle down far enough to pulll the axle out of the kuckle.
sigh. yeah, i was going to add theres alternate methods. you also unbolt the upper and lower control arm from the chassis. whatever floats your boat.
i dont have a problem disconnecting the lower balljoint....
i dont have a problem disconnecting the lower balljoint....
that inner boot is fairly easy to replace, if your outer boots go bad then don't bother with replacing them yourself, it's tedious and messy and you'll give up and just go buy a whole refurb one
Autozone rubber is junk. I split a inner boot after an autox event and it's already beginning to show age in the rubber and wear. Maybe I put it on too short or long.
Autozone rubber is junk. I split a inner boot after an autox event and it's already beginning to show age in the rubber and wear. Maybe I put it on too short or long.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Have you used these axles personally? $60 is the remanufactured ones correct? I have heard that these make noise and aren't real quality. I know they are only $60 but is it worth it to go more pricey from like raxles or OEM, then to get some junky stuff that's gonna sound/work like crap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I use them. Mine don't make noise or anything.
They're probably not the best quality but as long as it doesn't break, clunk, or sling grease then I'm satisfied.
Have you used these axles personally? $60 is the remanufactured ones correct? I have heard that these make noise and aren't real quality. I know they are only $60 but is it worth it to go more pricey from like raxles or OEM, then to get some junky stuff that's gonna sound/work like crap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I use them. Mine don't make noise or anything.
They're probably not the best quality but as long as it doesn't break, clunk, or sling grease then I'm satisfied.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Took about 2.5 hrs including the trip to autozone. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How far away was that parts store? It only takes me about 20 minutes to replace an axle.
Took about 2.5 hrs including the trip to autozone. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How far away was that parts store? It only takes me about 20 minutes to replace an axle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How far away was that parts store? It only takes me about 20 minutes to replace an axle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well aren't you the cats pajamas
How far away was that parts store? It only takes me about 20 minutes to replace an axle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well aren't you the cats pajamas
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doitdub »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well aren't you the cats pajamas
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I haven't worn pajamas in over 30 years.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I haven't worn pajamas in over 30 years.
i track autozone axels... and i have to put another one on after 2.5 years, though it tore and i just drove it through the winter beating on it with a torn boot... i've never had issues with the autozone axels though.
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