ok for about 3 months now my car has been getting worse. it sounds like it idles like a tractor. when started up the car idles up and down. then i was told map sensors go bad often on hondas so i was told to unplug it while the car was on it idled normal when unpluged. the check engine light came on and i thought nothing of it b/c i fig it was just unplugging the map sensor. i wastold it could also be a vacume leak. i checked it with sprying gum cutter around anywhere where it could possible be leaking nothing. so i also checked for aleak by sending a sound you cant hear withou using special headphones nothing again! i just was like screw it and left it alone. well i noticed my car needs an inspection soon and my check engine light is on. well i can tell my car isnt gonna pass inspection like it is. soo i bought a check engine light reader. heres what i got a tottal of 10 codes!: Map curcuit high input, TPS/pedal position sensor A circuit low input, EGR valve lift insufficent detected, idle speed control system low, cylinder 1 misfire, cylinder 3 misfire, cylinder 4 misfire, cylinder 2 misfire, EGR flow insufficient, Random misfire. also it cranks over and you have to give it gas to start up correctly. so i figured i would replace the egr, map sensor, tps(never replace) and idle air control valve. NOTHING CHANGED! im starting to get frusterated with this car. Also one thing i forgot i wrecked this car about a year ago and cracked the block so i got a f22b swaped in by japan star motors which did horable ive had a problem ever since it was done. i need some help to fix my car so i can pass inspection. or do you think it will pass inspection? please im open for any idea please let me know your thoughts. HELP!

 

Sooo...you've had a problem with the way the car runs since they did work to it, yet you havent brought it back to them to fix it? lol...man.

I hate to say this, because it could just be an easy fix, but it may benefit you to take $60 and have a shop or dealership run a diagnostic on it (after explaining what all you've replaced), so atleast you'll have the problem/s pinpointed. E-diagnostics are about as accurate as the micheal jackson verdict, since none of us have access to your car or what you actually done to it (or not done to it).

 

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well if you have a 2.2 accord...the idle problem could be coming from one of the Idle Controls...I had the same problem with my car...there are two types of idle controls..the IAC and some other one i forgot the name...there is a plastic piece inside of it that turned loose. I just took it out and tighted it back up and it was fine.

 

well where exactly is the iac your talking about and how did u tighten it up let me know so i can check it thanks

 

Try reseting the cpu and check codes again

 

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the one i'm talking about is directly under the throttle body...there should be a few bolts holding it up and a couple of coolant hoses..take it off and open the end with the cap on it. THere should be a plastic screw/nut type thing that is possibly loose. tighten it up and put it back together. If the plastic thing isn't loose then its not the problem

 

well i took off the peice that he told me to and it was completly loose. soo i tightend it back up. well it idled perfect but when yo like rev it up just a lil it settlees back down and stalls out. so i figured i tightend it to much so i lossened it up like 3 dif times and it still stalls now i cant drive my car :-(

 

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bump

 

bump

 

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i say , go back to the garage who did the install... they gotta fix up their f-up...