Ok, oddly enough i'm still fighting my driver side axle to go in (passenger was cake) but that's a whole 'nother story.

I'm nearing the end of my h22a swap and i need some guidance as far as getting it to run properly. As of now it sounds like a low flying helicopter..what with the "wub wub wub wub" sound at idle (~1500rpm)

Problems:

1. Squealing noise coming from my belt (p/s & alt.)area..
-Not enough tension i'm guessing? what's the rule of thumb?

2. Straining noise coming from somewhere near my tb/im..i think
-FPR struggling? can i swap my h23 one over?
-What else should i be checking for?

3. Fuel leak around the fuel rail somewhere..
-Will recheck the nuts and bolts for tightness (when i get home)

The car seems to idle normally except for the rough sound of it and shaking of the engine..i guess thats not too normal

Engine is running a Phearable.net P28 ECU with an H22 map. For testing purposes, should i run my P14 for the time being?

Gonna buy some new plugs too.. anythin else?

T I A

edit:: btw- no CEL's

 

My h22 made goofy noises and smelled weird but finally started to idle right. Just let it run for a while after you get that fuel leak fixed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by optikal_blitz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

3. Fuel leak around the fuel rail somewhere..
-Will recheck the nuts and bolts for tightness (when i get home)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

we had an issue with this when we threw the h22a into a 95 civic. We ordered an AEM fuel rail so we didn't have to go find a junked accord fuel rail or try to re-do the fuel lines to reach the drivers side. The rail was leaking pretty good on the "input" side. We ended up hitting up pep boys and got some sealent (it's blue in color) that doesn't dry, but seals when torque is applied to it. It's also resistance to like engine coolent, fuel, etc, etc... it did the trick perfectly.

 

if that leak persists i'll pick up some of that. thanks

i've been talking to my american car buddy here at work and he's screamin: 'timing light timing light!' so adjusting the distributor and checking the timing seems to be the way to go.

 

You can use the h23 throttle body/tps, that's what I'm using.

Get a timing gun on it like your friend said.

As far as the axle issue, If it's having trouble going in,
undo the 2 bolts for the lower control arm and try lifting up
on the whole suspension and pushing it forward.

It will take some finaggeling ( ) but it should go in.

 

1. prob alt belt. .5" - 1" of play is recommended for the belt.

3. i ran into the fuel rail leak on my eg H swap too. the banjo bolt on the line from the filter to the rail is different in the lude. my stock eg bolt leaked pretty badly, until i switched to the H's fuel line. it's weird because I can't visually tell the difference, but its there.

 

thanks. about the ECU:

anyone have experience with Phearable.net's ecu? Think the guy who makes them is named John.

The car will run on the P14 no?

 

K, this is actually Dan aka Ory'Hara from 3si...the dude who's been helping you put that engine in!

Anyway, I don't have an account here but apparently one of my friends left his logged in on my browser and I think I'll just use it for the time being since I'm really much too lazy to register myself an account to post once.

Secondly, Ray, you stole that avatar from 3si.

On topic now: did you look at the plugs in the morning before work? How bad were they?

As far as the alternator belt goes...how do you measure play? I mean, should it be a good push on the belt or should I be throwing all my weight into it with my arms shaking at maximum strength to measure how much play it has? A decent push on it results in about .5" of play...but that just seemed loose to me, so I went and checked it on my 3000GT and mine is tighter. I would have thought his squealing problems would have come from the belt being too loose?

The fuel leak is annoying me. It's bad enough to create a good sized puddle on top of the intake manifold but I've stared at it from less than a foot away with his car running and a shop light in my hand and I just can't figure out where it was coming from.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It will take some finaggeling ( ) but it should go in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that's my word too! no one knows why i use it.. i was thinking its spelled fenageling lol

 

Well about the avatar.. SHHH i still went thru the trouble to make it. so... stfun00b

I bought a bunch of plugs and will be getting out there to night.

Check the above post-- .5 - 1.0" of play

 

You Honda guys and your carefully finagling ( &lt;-- correct spelling) things to get them to work right.

We in the 3/S world just smash various things in the engine bay with hammers/mallets/cooking pans until they work again! &lt;insert :lol: emoticon here&gt;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpurtlesAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The fuel leak is annoying me. It's bad enough to create a good sized puddle on top of the intake manifold but I've stared at it from less than a foot away with his car running and a shop light in my hand and I just can't figure out where it was coming from.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a really hard time finding the leak on my fuel rail too. check the banjo bolt, visually you can't see anything wrong, but it's not a tight fit unless you get one from a prelude. For the belt, if you think it's too loose, then tighten it. Just make sure there is some play in the belt, it can break if its too tight.

 

I'm heading over to his place in about 45 minutes, so I'll check on it when I get there. Thanks for the suggestion!

As far as belts goes...I'm just really paranoid about loose belts. Maybe a little too paranoid. Skipped timing is one of the top causes of ruined 3/S's, right up there with spun bearings. Thank you Mitsubishi and your prone-to-failure TBelt auto-tensioner!

He's got about .5" of play in his alternator belt, which is what was recommended. Plus, the noises don't sound so much like slippage as they do...scrapage. I don't really know how to describe it, and I don't think either of us has equipment good enough to make a decent recording of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpurtlesAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He's got about .5" of play in his alternator belt, which is what was recommended. Plus, the noises don't sound so much like slippage as they do...scrapage. I don't really know how to describe it, and I don't think either of us has equipment good enough to make a decent recording of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did he to the auto to manual tensioner conversion? if so, there is a spacer you need or the belt will rub. I see you are in melbourne, do you know .nate (h-t name)? He helped me with my H swap before he moved to melbourne, and is very familiar with how we fixed all my swap probs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by optikal_blitz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, oddly enough i'm still fighting my driver side axle to go in (passenger was cake) but that's a whole 'nother story.

I'm nearing the end of my h22a swap and i need some guidance as far as getting it to run properly. As of now it sounds like a low flying helicopter..what with the "wub wub wub wub" sound at idle (~1500rpm)

Problems:

1. Squealing noise coming from my belt (p/s & alt.)area..
-Not enough tension i'm guessing? what's the rule of thumb?

2. Straining noise coming from somewhere near my tb/im..i think
-FPR struggling? can i swap my h23 one over?
-What else should i be checking for?

3. Fuel leak around the fuel rail somewhere..
-Will recheck the nuts and bolts for tightness (when i get home)

The car seems to idle normally except for the rough sound of it and shaking of the engine..i guess thats not too normal

Engine is running a Phearable.net P28 ECU with an H22 map. For testing purposes, should i run my P14 for the time being?

Gonna buy some new plugs too.. anythin else?

T I A

edit:: btw- no CEL's</TD></TR></TABLE>

Squealing of the belts is usually because it is too tight(If it is your accessory belts that we are speaking of).. If your engine is shaking really bad and idling rough than your timing is most likely way off or you have the plug wires mixed up causing the cylinders to fire at the wrong time... If you feel the problem is ECU related then sure try the p14 ecu, just to see if it will idle normally, the fuel maps will be off obviously because the difference in injector sizing and displacement, and of course VTEC would not engage(but I would recommend driving around on that ECU)...

 

Here's a pic of my axle.. it doesnt look all the way in at all, but it spins the half shaft.



BLAH.


no more belt squeal.. found that it was off a groove... haha

however, there is a squealing sound originating somewhere near the TB.

i did the T/B coolant bypass mod...think that it could be causing my squeal?

I'm waiting for my buddy with the timing light to come by so i'll figure out that issue sooner or later.

lmk if we need a video.

 

Update:

figured it out-- if you ever hear a loud whining/hissing combined with a surging idle.. it's cause your throttle body gasket has a leak. hurray.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by optikal_blitz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Update:

figured it out-- if you ever hear a loud whining/hissing combined with a surging idle.. it's cause your throttle body gasket has a leak. hurray.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good ****...hows the bad boy running now??? i was gonna say vacuum leak, but i looked at your last post