I need to get a set of head bolts for the K20A2. Dumbass me was torquing down one of the nuts on the top of the valve cover and snapped the threading. I took the valve cover off and removed the head bolt and went to Acura of Lynnwood for a replacement(thanks Rob!). Upon talking to a friend who's a tech at Honda of Seattle he recommended untorquing all the bolts and redoing them in order to spec, no problem, hehe, or so I thought.

I started to torque down the first one, spec is 29ft/lbs, my wrench gets to about 25ft/lbs when all the sudden I hear "SNAP!" I was actually able to take the bolt out to find that the threads had just seperated a little bit, but still enough not to make me want to put it back in. In talking to another friend on the phone I learned that they were probably more of a one-time-use bolt, ya know, once you untorque it you have to get another due to stretching over time.

So that leads me to my question, does ARP make head bolts for our cars? I tried searching but couldn't find a main ARP site, and all the other little sites selling there goods I couldn't a listing for our cars. Or should I just go OEM again? Ahh, man, this project is so close to being done and all this crap happens. Any useful input is appreciated.

Edit: Found a set on CRSX for $127, would the money be worth it? I could get OEM for almost half that.

 

arp head bolts all the way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iROCKtheSOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arp head bolts all the way</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can't go wrong with arp

 

get arp and make sure to lube he threads when you are torqueing them down.

 

i used ARP head studs on my miata.

it's worth it.

this will sound odd, but the best price i found for my miata ARP stuff was at NOPI online.

studs are better than bolts.

re-tap the hold you had issues with.

use the the lube ARP provides and use THEIR torque settings, not OEM. it will be on a sheet in the box.