Ok, so I started workin on the car to drop the tranny and change the clutch... this is my first time so its kinda hard..

I did some searching on how to replace a clutch and i couldn't find any clear answers..
1. for the exhaust, right behind the cat, the 3rd bolt at the top, is there any easy way to get it on? to get it off I only had like an inch of space for the socket wrench after bending the heat shield out of the way.

2. i vaguely remember len telling me I don't need to remove the spindle nut... But he might have been talking about some other nut, I couldn't remember. after looking at it in the helms, I don't have anythign that can produce 134 lb ft of torque to even get it back on. Can i remove the ball joint and the drive shaft wtihout pulling the spindle nut? it seems like i may be able to if i pull the damper fork bolt from the lower arm...

do i HAVE to get a ball joint remover? Is there any way the lower joint will come out without the special tool?

Thanks...

 

1. the only way i can think of is to remove the two hangers on the b-pipe.

2."spindle nut" might be refering to the axle nut which you will need to remove to take out the axels, then you can take out the transmission.
if you have no air tools then drive to a car shop and ask them to shoot it out for you.

3. there is a tool call "pickle fork" which is an alternative to the "ball joint remover."

 

I don't use a pickle fork because it tends to tear up the boots on ball joints. The upper joint is pretty easy to separate. My little trick is to remove the nut, thread it back on backwards to keep from damaging the "castle" part of the nut, then pop it with a 5lb sledge hammer. It pops right out.

 

That works, or you can get the 'small U shaped ball joint remover' (screw press) from Autobone. That is very easy to use, and it's only $10. Holla if you need a pic. There was a pic of it online here somewhere last year. Measure the flats of the control arm where the ball joint installs to make sure you get the right size tool - there are a couple of sizes. Do some more searches, you have not found all the info yet. Specifically search the Type R forum.

Pounding on my castle nut, even upside down with a sledge and catalytic penetrant would not budge it.

You do not need to take off the axle nuts! Pull the BJ () and leave the axles in, support them with a coat hanger wire from the spring or upper a arm. You still need to pull the half shaft. Follow the Helms.

That top cat bolt is a pain. I think I used a deep socket for it, which positioned the ratchet to where there was more room. I re-installed that one first to make it easier. Are you stock exhaust, or 2.5" aftermarket?

 

I hope this link will help you

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...h.php

 

You don't have to remove the axle nuts if you don't want to, you can undo the lower ball joint, and pop the axles out of the tranny and pull the whole assembly out of the way. It makes squeazing the tranny out the bottom a little bit more tricky, but it saves time in the end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You do not need to take off the axle nuts! Pull the BJ () and leave the axles in, support them with a coat hanger wire from the spring or upper a arm. You still need to pull the half shaft. Follow the Helms.

I re-installed that one first to make it easier. Are you stock exhaust, or 2.5" aftermarket?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm stock, so i'll try a deeper socket, maybe ther eis more room in the rear.

So in the helms, they're taking the axles completley out..

if i leave the nut in, i pull it from the driveshaft, and it won't have enough play to touch the ground? (actuallyi have no clue how much it'll move up and down...) where is a good spot to tie the hanger around? like right on the outer boot?

on the right side, whats the point of removing the A arm thingie?