My problem is best described the in following picture.



As you can see from the picture the piece of metal that holds the door pin somehow become broken. I can tell from my experience at the junkyard that this is a common occurance. What i cannot find, however, is how to fix it.

I've been considering just getting some J&B weld and holding that thing in it's place. Do you think this is a good solution, or should I do something more extreme like replacing the actual part?

 

Take your fender off and replace the part.

 

take it to a muffler shop, have them weld that part back on, its as easy as that...

 

I didn't realize it was accessable from behind the fender. If that's all I need to do then i'll just do it myself sometime soon.

 

Wow! Maybe it's not. If not, how the hell do you get to it? I hope that doesn't happen to mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiMateoAko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't realize it was accessable from behind the fender. If that's all I need to do then i'll just do it myself sometime soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not that easy, u cant get to it with the fender off and its spot welded to the car...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxtreme89h &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow! Maybe it's not. If not, how the hell do you get to it? I hope that doesn't happen to mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't remember seeing it when I recently replaced my fender. I'll check at the junkyard on the car I took the fender off of before I tear mine apart.

Otherwise I'll just use J&B weld or some other cold welding compound to hold it in place.

 

mine is the same way. i'm going to get it spot welded back together, although i have considered using some sheet metal screws above and below it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gutterslide &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine is the same way. i'm going to get it spot welded back together, although i have considered using some sheet metal screws above and below it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'll mix together some cold welding compound tonight and see if it works. I'm just sick of hearing the "click click" every time I open the door.

 

I cant c the pic?
can u upload it again? I'm having a problem with my door sagging and want to c and compare where urs is busted.

 

hahahah u know what thats from? backing into **** with the door open, and it grabs the door and tweaks it and breaks that part..

such things as, trees, garages, and other cars

 

I bought this car b/c it gets great gas mileage and was in sound mechanical condition...

until I blew the head gasket due to a bad radiator hose.

Now I'm doing body work... the previous owners must have beat the **** out of this car.

But for now, I have a fraken-honda.

 

That little rod on both my doors has snapped in half... So now I just hope people catch the door.

 

you can get new pins for next to nothing... or just use a paper clip and wrap it around a few times.

Seriously though, just go to a junkyard and get new pins.

 

that piece, to re-weld it in, you have to get at it from behind. if you try welding it from the front, it won't last. to get to it (if i remember right) you have to cut a square for access.

 

What are they connected to inside the door?

I should really take some time and do this because its really annoying that they just flop open.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are they connected to inside the door?

I should really take some time and do this because its really annoying that they just flop open.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it connects to a little piece that is held on the door by two 10mm bolts. it's small enough that you could get it from a door at the salvage yard for no more than 2 dollars.

To get to the part that connects to the door you'll have to take the interior off of the door and when you unbolt it you can grab it out by putting your hand into one of the access holes on the door.

It's pretty much as easy as they come.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bagpipe goatee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that piece, to re-weld it in, you have to get at it from behind. if you try welding it from the front, it won't last. to get to it (if i remember right) you have to cut a square for access.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's pretty freaking lame. You'd think a part like that would be easy to fix/replace.

 

Just to point something out, This won't happen if one Properly uses his or her Passive Restraint System .

If your seatbelts are mounted on the door, you have a passive restraint sytem.
What does this mean?
One with a passive restraint system should NEVER unbuckle his or his seatbelt!
EVER.
Look on the buckle, the button is the EMERGENCY release.

If you keep it buckled in:
1. No more door swinging open and breaking that pin area
2. No more slamming the buckle into the door panel...
3. You get to feel like a Ninja getting in/out.

Advice:
Slide your hand under BOTH belts, pull up, and slide in. It's just that easy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bagpipe goatee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that piece, to re-weld it in, you have to get at it from behind. if you try welding it from the front, it won't last. to get to it (if i remember right) you have to cut a square for access.</TD></TR></TABLE>

100% correct.

 

Common problem, happens to probably 80% of EF's. No need to look like a retard and keep your seatbelt buckled I just pulled the pin out, no more clicking. Welding it will fix it temporarly until the weld breaks.

 

This is just an idea right now, but I am thinking about having a part CNC'd out of aluminum to replace the broken part. The idea would be to create the piece with a large square base so that there would be a larger area to weld, and it could be tacked on the front so that you wouldn't have to pull the fender off. We'll see how things go, I'll keep you guys updated if any progress happens.

 

to get to the part to reweld it is pretty hard, you have to cut out alot of spot welds and you have to cut up your car. ill take some pics of it well my car is still in pieces

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spankjelly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is just an idea right now, but I am thinking about having a part CNC'd out of aluminum to replace the broken part. The idea would be to create the piece with a large square base so that there would be a larger area to weld, and it could be tacked on the front so that you wouldn't have to pull the fender off. We'll see how things go, I'll keep you guys updated if any progress happens.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think this is the right idea. i don't feel like cutting holes in my car to fix such a minor problem. even 2 "L" brackets screwed/rivoted/welded in it's place would work.

 

hmmm i also had a problem with the clicking door.... exhaust shop welded it for free from the inside of the door jamb. big nasty weld, but it worked, and has been working for a few months. doesnt look like it will break anytime soon