Ok I remember reading a thread about this but I tried searching and couldn't find it anymore. Well basicly whats your procedure when you're going to put in the motor? From what I researched......connect the rear bracket to rear mount but leave it lose, drop the motor in with no mounts, drop it low enough so you can install the tranny mount then connect lower bolt of the rear bracket. Bring it up, put all screws on the tranny side but leave them loose, put all screws on the rear bracket but leave them loose, connect all screws on the driver side and leave them loose then start to tighten everything up when things get straight. Torque everything to spec, 43lbs right?

 

Sounds about right, but you will have to do some fiddling with it. You'll figure it out after fooling with it for about 30 minutes. Also, please don't use screws. Use the Original Honda "bolts".

 

lol yea that's what i meant.

 

Going in tomarrow, any more tips?

 

Drop the trans side mount or the side engine mount in first. The trans side mount actually has to go under the mount then back up. Once you line the 2 side mounts up, well the back one will just have to go up or down.

Take it slow and watch your finger, never ever place a limb where if the engine hoist gives way, it could take out an arm.

 

Use a load leveler with the engine hoist, it's too big to drop "straight" in.

 

drink beer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drink beer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm with you buddy..

If you have access to a lift,it is much easier
to pull the cross-member and drop it out the bottom
onto a dolly..

 

dont forget to hook vtec up if u got it

 

Don't do drugs and attempt wiring


Your gonna neeed to beat the in the engine bay where the alternator would sit.. Its a very very tight squeeze and if you don't.. Have fun replacing a belt.. Also, your gonna have to take the front subframe mount where it hooks to a D series motor out and beat the mount on the subframe down/off.

When placing the B series axels in your CRX/Civic hub your going to have to pop out the dust ring on the back of the hubs. The B series axels are to big and will bind up if you don't remove them.

Don't forget your 90-93 teg LS throttle cable and clutch cable.

 

Got the motor in today. Wow it's going to be a pain if i'm going to have to replace the clutch. Just dropping in the motor took about 2hours. Had some troubles getting the tranny mount to line up, found out that taking out the radius bar helps, lol. After that i got the back connected, then the driver side was another pain. The bolt would go through one side but don't want to come out the other side. Tomarrow i still have to put the other 2 bolts on the rear bracket, cut shift linkage, put axles, wire everything up, close some vacuum lines, and get the exhaust hooked up. Probably even more. This is just a note to myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StupidSlowCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't do drugs and attempt wiring


Your gonna neeed to beat the in the engine bay where the alternator would sit.. Its a very very tight squeeze and if you don't.. Have fun replacing a belt.. Also, your gonna have to take the front subframe mount where it hooks to a D series motor out and beat the mount on the subframe down/off.

When placing the B series axels in your CRX/Civic hub your going to have to pop out the dust ring on the back of the hubs. The B series axels are to big and will bind up if you don't remove them.

Don't forget your 90-93 teg LS throttle cable and clutch cable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good tips