I have heard a few bad things about the Omni, as in the bolts denting holes thru the upper sheetmetal, and Skunk 2 kits coming out of spec. I am not getting some crappy kit for $35 off ebay since this is an important part of the suspension.

 

skunk2 front have never slipped for me, and vouch for a few people. I installed them myself, and have seen many canyon runs. I love the adjustability, just jack your car up, dont even need to remove wheels.

Anywho, I got ingalls rear camber kit, but in retrospect, should have saved the money and gotten something cheaper...You dont adjust your rear, so why pay for it? (hammer on head)

edit:besides even if they do slip, whats the big deal, just reposition them and tighten them some more. they are a quality product, ive ridden on them for 2 years.

 

Only had my Skunk 2 on for a couple months, but no slippage problems for me. Set them prior to testing... the pavement at Peru was so rough it knocked my toe out (significantly) but the camber didn't slip at all.

 

How low do you plan on going? I ask because if you don't plan on going that low, you can get good camber numbers w/o kits. I'm lowered about 1"-1.25" and my camber came out at about -1.2 front and -1.0 rear. That's pretty good for street/handling & the tires still wear evenly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sfr4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How low do you plan on going? I ask because if you don't plan on going that low, you can get good camber numbers w/o kits. I'm lowered about 1"-1.25" and my camber came out at about -1.2 front and -1.0 rear. That's pretty good for street/handling & the tires still wear evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Actually, I will proably only drop 1-1.5 front and 1.5-2.0 rear. If I get Ground controls, it will vary. But, I am kinda cheap, so Koni yellows and Pro kit springs might be the way I go.

 

I'm running skunk upper arms and skunk springs. Only gripe I have is that the arms hit the metal up top on big bumps and put a little nipple in the metal, that caused the paint to chip on top. This was on both sides of the car in exactly the same spots. I do realize my car is low, but, in my opinion, they should not make springs that aren't compatible with their camber kit. Other than that, the kit itself is well made.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pootie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running skunk upper arms and skunk springs. Only gripe I have is that the arms hit the metal up top on big bumps and put a little nipple in the metal, that caused the paint to chip on top. This was on both sides of the car in exactly the same spots. I do realize my car is low, but, in my opinion, they should not make springs that aren't compatible with their camber kit. Other than that, the kit itself is well made.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My setup are Skunk2 PROSERIES full coilovers and Omni front camber kit. Just like he said above ^^...my car is very low and the omni kit punched thru the frame leaving a small hole opening haha. It doesnt really bother me after I saw it. I dont think anything worse can happen to the hole opening. Right?

Other than that issue, the omni/skunk2 camber kit does its job well. Even when the car is slammmed, camber kit ball joint slided all the way outward, and no alignment. The wheels look almost straight unlike those nasty angled rims.

 

I've had the ingalls for the past 2 yrs now and have had no issues what-so-ever. However, I don't have my car lowered too insanely (2" front, 1.5" rear).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nyceguy17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Actually, I will proably only drop 1-1.5 front and 1.5-2.0 rear. If I get Ground controls, it will vary. But, I am kinda cheap, so Koni yellows and Pro kit springs might be the way I go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

then unless you want to ADD camber, you don't need a camber kit.

Here let me go over the setuation with you.

you- want to lower your car, some one told you that if you lower it you need a camber kit so that you tires don't wear out fast. So you want to find the best one.

well the truth of it is, the camber your going to get IS NOT GOING TO WEAR YOUR TIRES AT ALL. the toe will though. after you get your car lower, take it an alignment shop and get the toe adjusted to factory specs. and your tires will wear normally.

[QUOTE=Nyceguy17]I have heard a few bad things about the Omni, ..., and Skunk 2 kits coming out of spec.[QUOTE]

thats funny the omni and the Skunk2 that you talk about ARE THE EXACT SAME. skunk2 has a new better design now though.

 

[QUOTE=slammed_93_hatch]

then unless you want to ADD camber, you don't need a camber kit.

Here let me go over the setuation with you.

you- want to lower your car, some one told you that if you lower it you need a camber kit so that you tires don't wear out fast. So you want to find the best one.

well the truth of it is, the camber your going to get IS NOT GOING TO WEAR YOUR TIRES AT ALL. the toe will though. after you get your car lower, take it an alignment shop and get the toe adjusted to factory specs. and your tires will wear normally.

[QUOTE=Nyceguy17]I have heard a few bad things about the Omni, ..., and Skunk 2 kits coming out of spec.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats funny the omni and the Skunk2 that you talk about ARE THE EXACT SAME. skunk2 has a new better design now though.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Cool. Does it still hit the metal?

 

I've been using the Ingalls front upper control arm kit for three years now...never slipped. I'm dropped on Skunk2 coilover sleeves with KYB AGX shocks to where the tire is barely tucking fender and have my front camber set at -1.2...I also get my alignment checked out once a month.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nyceguy17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Actually, I will proably only drop 1-1.5 front and 1.5-2.0 rear. If I get Ground controls, it will vary. But, I am kinda cheap, so Koni yellows and Pro kit springs might be the way I go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm running Koni/Pro-kits with no camber kit. It's running around -1.3 to -1.5 in the front and with the proper toe alignment it's been fine on tire wear (I'll take a pic of my worn out Azenis if nobody believes me). The inside is a little lower than the outside, but I think it has more to do with my toe settings than anything. By a little, I mean inside is at wear bars (2/32) and outside is about 3/32, very even wear in my book.

 

what is :
- camber
+ camber
-toe
+toe?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is :
- camber
+ camber
-toe
+toe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a good explanation & diagrams on tirerack's website.

 

i used ingalls in front and rear on my ef dumped on 205/50/15 azenis an worked great.had them professionally installed and then 4 wheel aligned and came out great.

 

Does camber or toe affect how your car pulls? After lowering my car it pulls pretty hard to the right. An alignment should fix this right?

 

I used the Eibach camber kit for the front($190)and Tein Flex COS ($1470)for my Ek hatch. I've just recently changed the front tires when I put the Teins on and the tires have been on there since I put the camber kit on 2 years ago. http://hondashowoff.com/profile.php?id=4445

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blazin Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Does camber or toe affect how your car pulls? After lowering my car it pulls pretty hard to the right. An alignment should fix this right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Getting it aligned should get rig of the pull. Many lowered hondas will still follow seams in the road and uneven areas.