yea im not gonna get one for my car just wondering if its true that you should get new rings and rods and all that **** to avoid blowing a head. just wondering . im young so easy on the bashing me. also how a boost controller works that be cool to. i know it "controls boost" but does it controll how much goes into the turbo and how does it do that . if you dont wanna help me out just dont reply thanks.

 

well im young to, i kno a little bit, but if i was you u shoulld read up more about turbo, D16turbo is a good site. but u said u wasnt gonna turbo it. as far as teh boost controller i think its controlls the Air like wastegate. but i dunno if im wrong, but dont go on my word

 

im young also, but i have sumwut knowledge of the turbos...yes, it controls the wastegate, it tells it when(at wut boost level) to open...how it does dat, im not quite sure, i kno there r mechanical and electric boost controllers, one type of mechanical is a spring in the wastegate that opens at a predetermined boost level...if im wrong in anywyas, please dunt bash, just correct and educate us

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91accordex16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea im not gonna get one for my car just wondering if its true that you should get new rings and rods and all that **** to avoid blowing a head. just wondering . im young so easy on the bashing me. also how a boost controller works that be cool to. i know it "controls boost" but does it controll how much goes into the turbo and how does it do that . if you dont wanna help me out just dont reply thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skylinex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im young to, i kno a little bit, but if i was you u shoulld read up more about turbo, D16turbo is a good site. but u said u wasnt gonna turbo it. as far as teh boost controller i think its controlls the Air like wastegate. but i dunno if im wrong, but dont go on my word</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goowakjai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im young also, but i have sumwut knowledge of the turbos...yes, it controls the wastegate, it tells it when(at wut boost level) to open...how it does dat, im not quite sure, i kno there r mechanical and electric boost controllers, one type of mechanical is a spring in the wastegate that opens at a predetermined boost level...if im wrong in anywyas, please dunt bash, just correct and educate us </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it's possible to upgrade the internals as long as the money and time is there.... actually the boost controller controls the internal waste gate which alowes the user to modify the amount of boost(higher) that the stock boost setting(psi).

Caleb

 

the accord has made a new gen of boost Freaks

 

the boost controller controls the wastegate and i would need to explain how the wastegate works. wastegate operates on vacum/boost pressure. i will explain this using an internal wastegate as an example. when you are in vacum such as crusing on the highway or just driving around town at partial throttle (not in boost of course) the vacum is making the flapper stay all the way open to divert air out of the exhuast housing thru another opening (the wastegate port). now lets say you hit boost...the wastegate actuator begins to close the flapper, concentrating more exhuast flow directly into the exhuast housing, making the turbo spool up faster which in turn spins the two turbine wheels faster creating more compression in the compressor housing which is creating boost pressure. a stock wastegate keeps the turbo from making boost past a certain point, it only allows the flapper to close so much. which would explain why when you disconnect the vacum line from a wastegate the flapper is totally closed and the turbo will boost out of control.

now we get into how the boost controller works, it basically bleeds some boost pressure in the vacum lines going to the wastegate to "fool it" into into "thinking"(even tho it can't really think) its making less boost than it really is allowing the flapper to close more. mechanical ones are just a bleeder valve, while the electronic ones use a computer to control the bleeder valve to be more accurate.

now by no means am i an expert on turbos but that is my take on how the wastegate works, i will have someone else explain an external wastegate.

 

You have the way a wastegate works pretty much correct, but kinda backwards. at low throttle and low rpm the engine doesn't produce enough exhaust to actually spin the turbine fast enough to produce boost on the compressor end. Because of this the exhaust can actually just flow through and around the turbine housing and exit out the turbine's main exit without event. This means that under low-load situations the wastegate remains entirely closed, in fact the spring in the actuator holds it tightly closed.

When you put your foot down the engine starts making considerably more exhaust and this starts to turn the turbine fast enough to produce boost on the compressor side. The wastegate actuator is connected by a vaccuum hose to the compressor outlet where the air is being pressurized. When the pressure inside the compressor outlet is at a certain level it overcomes the spring holding the wastegate closed forcing it open and allowing some exhaust to escape the turbine, limiting the amount of boost the compressor can make to that level. A boost controller limits the amount of pressure that the wastegate actuator actually sees, thus delaying the opening of the wastegate allowing the turbo to produce more boost.

And when it comes to replacing internals, you don't do it to prevent damaged to the head specifically. Usually people lower compression to put less strain on the bottom end. It may help reduce wear on the head by eliminating detonation and thust pitting of the internal surfaces, but that is usually the least of the head's worries. Heat is what usually kills most of the components of the engine. A boosted engine needs far more fuel than a NA engine does to keep the combustion chambers cooler. A proper tune and larger injectors are your greatest friend when boosting a car.

I know this because for the last year I have been running RC 440s in my 6th gen at 7psi of boost and can claim 189lb/ft of torque on a stock motor with a 60 trim garrett t3. (.63 hotside) By the way, that is at 2600rpm all you big turbo enthusiasts out there.

 

Hey if your going to do a turbo or anything for that matter you might as well do it right and get everything you need, the last thing you want is to do take the cheap way out and not get something to save money and b/c of not getting that specific part blow something on your engine or the whole thing for that matter................. when you buy rods and pistons and all that stuff its like insurance for your engine so if your turbo is putting out a lot of power you dont blow something if your gunnah turbo it do it the right way and get cams, cam gears, springs and retainers, valves, and whatever the turbo kit has as well... 3 sites for you is
1 - http://WWW.TURBOKITS.COM this site has warranties on there kits and includes pretty much everything you need

2- http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo4.htm in case your wondering how anything works with the turbo or anything else for that matter

3- http://www.hopupracing.com/hondaaccord.html this site has a bunch of mods and pretty much everything on this site is FREE SHIPPING

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have the way a wastegate works pretty much correct, but kinda backwards. at low throttle and low rpm the engine doesn't produce enough exhaust to actually spin the turbine fast enough to produce boost on the compressor end. Because of this the exhaust can actually just flow through and around the turbine housing and exit out the turbine's main exit without event. This means that under low-load situations the wastegate remains entirely closed, in fact the spring in the actuator holds it tightly closed.

When you put your foot down the engine starts making considerably more exhaust and this starts to turn the turbine fast enough to produce boost on the compressor side. The wastegate actuator is connected by a vaccuum hose to the compressor outlet where the air is being pressurized. When the pressure inside the compressor outlet is at a certain level it overcomes the spring holding the wastegate closed forcing it open and allowing some exhaust to escape the turbine, limiting the amount of boost the compressor can make to that level. A boost controller limits the amount of pressure that the wastegate actuator actually sees, thus delaying the opening of the wastegate allowing the turbo to produce more boost.

And when it comes to replacing internals, you don't do it to prevent damaged to the head specifically. Usually people lower compression to put less strain on the bottom end. It may help reduce wear on the head by eliminating detonation and thust pitting of the internal surfaces, but that is usually the least of the head's worries. Heat is what usually kills most of the components of the engine. A boosted engine needs far more fuel than a NA engine does to keep the combustion chambers cooler. A proper tune and larger injectors are your greatest friend when boosting a car.

I know this because for the last year I have been running RC 440s in my 6th gen at 7psi of boost and can claim 189lb/ft of torque on a stock motor with a 60 trim garrett t3. (.63 hotside) By the way, that is at 2600rpm all you big turbo enthusiasts out there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What milage are you getting??

Caleb