Possible to Replace A/C Thermostat without Removing Evaporator?
Like the topic says. Is it possible? I 've looked in the helms and it says to pull the Evaporator but i just wanted to know if any one has replaced it with out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlamaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like the topic says. Is it possible? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't try it.
I wouldn't try it.
why wouldn't you try it? It is eather possible or not. If it is possible you won't have to have your A/C system evacuated so you can pull the evaporator.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlamaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why wouldn't you try it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Because I dont think it would be worth the hassle just to save a little time on evac and charge. If it's possible it would be extremely difficult.
Because I dont think it would be worth the hassle just to save a little time on evac and charge. If it's possible it would be extremely difficult.
after looking at it myself you are right it would be next to impossible. I Found and place that will evac and recharge for $65.00
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well at frist the a/c system would come on for 10 sec. or so every 10 min. now it won't come on at all. The compressor clutch won't engage nor will the condensor fan come on. I went thru the troubleshooting flowchart in my hemls and when it cames to testing the A/C thermostat it failed. every other component checks out. Im pretty sure this is what is causing the system not to come on. I've checked all the other compenetes independently and they work.
when's the last time you checked the refrigerant pressure? there is a low pressure switch and, I believe, a high pressure switch which prevents the a/c from coming on when the pressure is not w/in acceptable limits.
I ask, cause my a/c was not cycling off and on, but would just stay engaged all the time the a/c button was selected. Like I said eariler, I was planning to pull my evaporator this weekend to change my thermostat, but my a/c started to cycle after my trip to the store for supplies I needed to service the a/c system. guess it knew I was about to tear it apart so it decided to start working on it's own.
just curious, but how did you test the thermostat with it still in place? the test I see in the helms calls for you to remove it to test.
good luck.. please post a follow up once you fix your problem.
I ask, cause my a/c was not cycling off and on, but would just stay engaged all the time the a/c button was selected. Like I said eariler, I was planning to pull my evaporator this weekend to change my thermostat, but my a/c started to cycle after my trip to the store for supplies I needed to service the a/c system. guess it knew I was about to tear it apart so it decided to start working on it's own.

just curious, but how did you test the thermostat with it still in place? the test I see in the helms calls for you to remove it to test.
good luck.. please post a follow up once you fix your problem.
yeah my pressure is good. I had to jump the compressor clutch to get it to engage but once it did my pressure was normal otherwise if you check your pressure without the system running it will alway read too high. And by testing it i mean in the flowchart it tells you to ground Pin 2 on the A/C thermostat with the A/C button on and it should kick on if the A/C thermostat is good, mine did not. Im going to get one from Honda and jsut plug it into the harness but not have it installed. If the system comes on then i know it is the thermostat. If it doesn't im not sure what could be wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlamaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Im going to get one from Honda and jsut plug it into the harness but not have it installed. If the system comes on then i know it is the thermostat. If it doesn't im not sure what could be wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can just jump the t-stat connector with a paper clip and see if the compressor kicks on.
You can just jump the t-stat connector with a paper clip and see if the compressor kicks on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can just jump the t-stat connector with a paper clip and see if the compressor kicks on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought about that but i can't figure out which way to jump it. Its a 3 pin connector and there is voltage on pins 1 and 3. So do i put a jumper from pin 1 to pin 2 and a second jumper from pin 3 to pin 2? That is the only way i can see. Which now that i am typing this it makes sense. Im going to go try it right now.
You can just jump the t-stat connector with a paper clip and see if the compressor kicks on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought about that but i can't figure out which way to jump it. Its a 3 pin connector and there is voltage on pins 1 and 3. So do i put a jumper from pin 1 to pin 2 and a second jumper from pin 3 to pin 2? That is the only way i can see. Which now that i am typing this it makes sense. Im going to go try it right now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlamaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought about that but i can't figure out which way to jump it. Its a 3 pin connector and there is voltage on pins 1 and 3. So do i put a jumper from pin 1 to pin 2 and a second jumper from pin 3 to pin 2? That is the only way i can see. Which now that i am typing this it makes sense. Im going to go try it right now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If I remember right it's only pins 1 and 2 that need to be jumped. Dont jump pin 3 (blk/yel wire) to pin 2 or you'll pop a fuse.
If I remember right it's only pins 1 and 2 that need to be jumped. Dont jump pin 3 (blk/yel wire) to pin 2 or you'll pop a fuse.
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spoonhatchblack
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