Whats Happening to my ROTORS??
the discoloration in the middle is normal?, im not sure, my first set of aftermarket rotors
it almost looks like it heated up to much
it almost looks like it heated up to much
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And why he has slotted rotors is his own business..
As far as the rotors go, the rotors looks in good condition other then for that spot... I am curious on why it is like that, that would be some big hot spot man, if it is.
Did you take out the pads and checked them out?
As far as the rotors go, the rotors looks in good condition other then for that spot... I am curious on why it is like that, that would be some big hot spot man, if it is.
Did you take out the pads and checked them out?
i have slotted rotors cause i want to have slotted rotors, when i make my car alot faster than it was like i have i just dont leave the brakes alone.
also they are Power slot rotors, and i have not yet taken out the pads, but both the rotors and the pads have about 3000 miles on them, the pads are EBC Green Stuuf pads.
also they are Power slot rotors, and i have not yet taken out the pads, but both the rotors and the pads have about 3000 miles on them, the pads are EBC Green Stuuf pads.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECRaZeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And why he has slotted rotors is his own business..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you kidding?
He posted a picture of them in a performance oriented internet forum, he asked a question about them, his rotors look normal.
I want to know why he feels he needs slotted rotors, having read his reply, I'm going to comment further, is that ok?
You do not need slotted rotors. OEM blanks are perfectly fine. Does the car get any track use? Your tires and pads are more than likely much more important with your use for your car.
I thought the whole point of coming to these forums is to learn something?
Are you kidding?
He posted a picture of them in a performance oriented internet forum, he asked a question about them, his rotors look normal.
I want to know why he feels he needs slotted rotors, having read his reply, I'm going to comment further, is that ok?
You do not need slotted rotors. OEM blanks are perfectly fine. Does the car get any track use? Your tires and pads are more than likely much more important with your use for your car.
I thought the whole point of coming to these forums is to learn something?
call me silly but, i dont think slotted rotors would make you break better or decrease your braking distance under everyday hum drum driving. Maybe increase cooling efficiency on a race car under race conditions.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">call me silly but, i dont think slotted rotors would make you break better or decrease your braking distance under everyday hum drum driving. Maybe increase cooling efficiency on a race car under race conditions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
they have no cooling benefits on a race track either. well, let's put it this way: they'll cool faster, but the $64,000 question is, will your calipers be cooler? will your fluid be cooler? theoretically, the answer is no. in real world conditions, it they don't make much of a difference.
they're good for scrubbing the pad face for consistent bite characteristics, but this comes at the expense of pad life. they also crack easier.
so basically, they're a waste of money. but hey, i don't have em on my car and that's what matters to me...
they have no cooling benefits on a race track either. well, let's put it this way: they'll cool faster, but the $64,000 question is, will your calipers be cooler? will your fluid be cooler? theoretically, the answer is no. in real world conditions, it they don't make much of a difference.
they're good for scrubbing the pad face for consistent bite characteristics, but this comes at the expense of pad life. they also crack easier.
so basically, they're a waste of money. but hey, i don't have em on my car and that's what matters to me...
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
i guess you missed the part about "consistent bite characteristics."
when you actually build a race car, campaign one, and more importantly start footing the bill for rotors and race pads; or exhibit any sort of semblance of knowledge about brakes as a mechanical, kinetic, or thermodynamic system, then you can officially start acting like you know something.
until then, try pretending a little harder, cuz the difference between some street driven bb and a JGTC spec race car makes you look like a moron for trying to win an argument using pictures to compare the two.
when you actually build a race car, campaign one, and more importantly start footing the bill for rotors and race pads; or exhibit any sort of semblance of knowledge about brakes as a mechanical, kinetic, or thermodynamic system, then you can officially start acting like you know something.
until then, try pretending a little harder, cuz the difference between some street driven bb and a JGTC spec race car makes you look like a moron for trying to win an argument using pictures to compare the two.
no where in my post did i say i had any "knowledge about brakes as a mechanical, kinetic, or thermodynamic system"
i merely said i doubt he cares what your opinion is about slotted rotors
i merely said i doubt he cares what your opinion is about slotted rotors
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no where in my post did i say i had any "knowledge about brakes as a mechanical, kinetic, or thermodynamic system"
i merely said i doubt he cares what your opinion is about slotted rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think what you said was, in essence:
"i have no idea what i'm talking about, so i assume no one else does either, therefore i will post irrelevant pictures about cars that have nothing to do with the car in question." and don't pretend that your line of reasoning didn't follow this completely misguided logic: "JGTC cars have em, so they must be DoPe."
and to tell you the truth i'm not sure i care that you don't care that he doesn't care that i don't care that h-t doesn't care that your mom doesn't care, so maybe we should all stop talking and start posting ******* wheelpolls.
i merely said i doubt he cares what your opinion is about slotted rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think what you said was, in essence:
"i have no idea what i'm talking about, so i assume no one else does either, therefore i will post irrelevant pictures about cars that have nothing to do with the car in question." and don't pretend that your line of reasoning didn't follow this completely misguided logic: "JGTC cars have em, so they must be DoPe."
and to tell you the truth i'm not sure i care that you don't care that he doesn't care that i don't care that h-t doesn't care that your mom doesn't care, so maybe we should all stop talking and start posting ******* wheelpolls.
Slotted/Drilled rotors are a thing of the past other than for looks really. Almost all brake pads do not vaporize into gas in any kind of semi-normal situation. The reason for slotted/drilled rotors was to release this vaporized gas that caused the pad to hydroplane over the rotor. The thing is that for most brake pads today this doesn't occur. However for RACE cars with RACE ONLY pads reach temps (1400F+ is the COLD temp) that we'll never see and they do vaporize a little bit requiring the vents. The only other time that slotted rotors are a good thing is rally where you need something to clear out the small rocks that might get inbetween the pad and rotor.
slotted or drilled rotors are not so much for cooling purposes but breaking the seal on the rotor face.
like putting water between two panes of glass, that is how brake dust will become between your pad and rotor. having the slot or the holes there alleviates this and helps keep a "fresher" pad on the rotor which in turn helps with brake fade and stopping time.
necessary - no, but it wont hurt.
like putting water between two panes of glass, that is how brake dust will become between your pad and rotor. having the slot or the holes there alleviates this and helps keep a "fresher" pad on the rotor which in turn helps with brake fade and stopping time.
necessary - no, but it wont hurt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crdcz03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe he has slotted rotors b/c he got the rotors slightly used for a considerable amount less than new like i did? sheesh.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Out of curiosity how much is that? Brand new blanks can be had for $30 each.
But yes, those pictures make it ridiculously hard to read anything and just say "race teams use slotted rotors." ok, that's fine, no one asked about that.
Out of curiosity how much is that? Brand new blanks can be had for $30 each.
But yes, those pictures make it ridiculously hard to read anything and just say "race teams use slotted rotors." ok, that's fine, no one asked about that.
OK, to go back to the original question a little bit: is there a brand of rotors that resists rust / discoloration better? I don't care about an occasional rust spot on the braking surface of the rotor, that rubs right off. What pisses me off about my OEM rotors is that the hub (where the pads don't touch) is all rusty. Should I shop around, or just pull my rotors off and just paint the hub with high-temp paint??



