i have an 89 dx hatch with a Z6 swapped into it...i got the conversion harness and all that good stuff...however for some odd reason its not starting....and my mechanic is lookin at it..but since hes hookin me up and not charging me...he cant devote a full days work to it..(he has other cars to work on and has to make moeny too)...i completely understand why...he told me it should be runnin this weekend. somw of my friends told me to just do the whole thing obd1 from the headlights to the taillights, dash harness and all...my ? is do i need anything besides the engine bay and dash harness to do this....i want the whole thing obd1 so i dont have to deal with b/s like this when i swap a gsr later on any help would be really appreciated

 

you dont have to convert everything, just the engine harness and the harness that goes to the ecu. that is all that matters.

 

i did that...and for some reason the car isnt running...its not even starting...it just cranks and cranks...and i triend everything from new injectors, spark plugs and plug wires...dizzy cap, rotor, and even and new coil...tried 2 proven dizzies..and nothing...this is my last goal..plus itll make it easier in the long run if i decide to go with a B engine, itll just be plug and play...

 

check the 2 white wires at the dizzy, those two get switched and you wont get any spark. are you getting any codes?

 

man i tried that...i tried everything...

 

Are u serious everything from the headlights to the taillights??? LOL

 

i just mean get the car to be completely obd1 front to back

 

im doing this/ just did it actually , but mine is a 91 si with a b16a.
i got and used
1) obd1 gsr off a 94
2) obd1 dizzy off the same gsr
3) o2 sensor off that gsr
4) wire harness from kobd.com or .net
mine started right up and going strong just needs a lil pressure

 

check the resistor box....all those wires should be cut and wired into one

 

i got the resistor box plug from rywire

 

Its a good harness everyone, its a jkobd ecu jumper (the best), and a dp to mpfi done by us. I had him continuity check every wire on that dang thing, and it all checked out cool. Hey Lenny, is that ecu for sure good man?
Ryan

 

dang i used the obd0-1 conversion harness where do i get the conversion harness for the tail lights and head lights? and 0-1 stereo conversion

 

yeah everything checks out ok...i think its just my own stupidity that caused this..cuz when i pinned and repinned i looked at the ecu plugs backwards sorta...but then i placed everything back to the factory settings...then proceeded to do it correctly this time but nothing...im not bad mouthing rywire....they did an awesome job...it was just owner error...

 

sorry man...i was tryin not to use anyones names...anyhow...yeah Rywire did a great job and i recomend them....

 

Import;

I'd recommend that you change your profile to give a general idea on where you are located. If you are local to where I live, I'd be willing to personally help. But I have no idea where you are.

A lot of problems like this have to be solved with "hands-on".

When I first got my conversion to OBD1 done, the car wouldn't start. It would kind of want to start if sprayed with starter fluid. The problem was that two of the wires that go to the map sensor were backwards.

I found the problem by using the factory troubleshooting flow-chart that is in the factory (Helm's) manual for the GSR motor I'm running.

Wes

 

i live in kissimmee fl,....and not that im doubting your skill or anything cuz for all i know you could be a master tech...but im having a mechanic look at it..

 

Seriously tho man, that mechanic sucks... Find a different place IMO.
Ryan

 

Did you test the main relay, i'm sure you have just making sure, also not just the main relay but all things that get the fuel to the engine. Fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel wiring, fuel clog, filter clog. Just trying to give you some ideas.

 

well the fuel pump works, you can hear it when yuo try to start it. Theres no power goin to the injectors or the spark plugs....and one thing that i found weird is that for some reason i get continuity to both A7 and A5 as one wire...confusing i know..what i mean is when i do the test and i touch one part of the tester to the injector...#3 i believe. and touch a5 i get continuity, right?..im supposed to...but then i touch a7 and i also get contiuity...thats weird..

 

Yeah the weird thing is, it seems the stock DX had the injectors wired into two ECU pins, for example the injector clip itself has yel/blk wire and a yel wire, yet at the ecu it says the yellow wire connects at two different ECU pins, i think it splits and converges into one wire before the injector. That is very odd.

 

A7 should be our brand new #4 injector wire, it's yellow. The OLD A7 pin that was supposed to be REMOVED AND TAPED OFF is supposed to continuity check back to A5, because on a DX, A5 and A7 are bridged to fire 2 injectors at the same time. (thats the DUAL in dual point)
If you haven't pinned in the new Injector wiring like the instructions say, of course it won't work.
Check it out - http://www.rywire.com/dpmpfi_i.shtml

I want nothing more in life than to get your car running Lenny
Have your NEW mechanic call me when he's workin on it so i can get the story straight, i'll walk him through the installation step by step if thats what it takes. We want your car running as much as you do, seriously!

 

i did everything according to your instructions..pinned and repinned it accordingly....but in any case i will def. have him call you..

 

bump

 

bump? for what?
From what you said earlier one of your major problems was that you're still using the stock DX injector pin on A7.
I can tell you what needs to be done if you or someone can tell me what has <U>really</U> been done so far.
I wish i could just do it for ya man, FL's just too far
(Any good mechanics in Kissimme FL wana PM this guy and help him out?!?)

 

yeah but i dont think that one misplaced pin should account for all the injectors not gettin power, and the spark plugs not gettin spark