The chart speaks for itself, the numbers are totally low for my setup.

This what I am running:
98 GSR B18 block - Resleeved and bored to 84mm
99 SI B16 head - JG port polished and valvetrain
Eagle Rods and CP Pistons
Buddy Club Stage 3 cams
Compression should be 11:1
JG bored throttle body
JDM B16 inake manifold
AEM Short Ram Intake
Generic exhaust header
Random cat
RS*R exhaust
Stock LS injectors
non-obd PWO ecu
VAFC2

From what I was told, there are 2 easy things I need to do:
1. larger injectors
2. get a better header.

Besides those 2 things, what worries me is that my vtec might not be engaging. The wiring was checked multiple times, the PWO should be functioning and the engine mechanically itself looks like it should work. Are there any other tests to tell if vtec is engaging?

Also I'm in NorCal, Thanks!

 

Do yuo have an air/fuel graph? Cause man you need some tuning thats for sure.. your grpah is all over the place!

 

damn .... wish i had the a/f graph, but i don't. the only printout i got is the one you see.

 

eeeuhhhmm. TUNING!!!!!

get a wideband o2 and tune it on the street if you have to but TUNING!!!

you van hear/feel vtec engage , if you're worrying you can't feel it use you're vafc to engage vtec at 6500 or so and then you should feel it real good!

 

bigger injectors, better header, and good tuning with some type of engine management.

 

yeah it looks like you are peaking really low on that graph make sure vtec is working.

 

yeah your V-tech is not crossing over.. you can see right around 6K is where vtec should turn on it just simply dropps off.. you are off by about 50hp from your setup you should easier be in the mid 190s with that as a baseline..

if motor is healthy its in the elctronics.. management/program wiring.

 

your maps are all messed up!

 

yeah thats what i was trying to say it sure looks like it would be decent running motor if he gets his vtec working.

 

thanks for all the replies!

So how do I verify whether or not vtec is working?
- I heard that since I am a 2Liter now, that it's harder to hear the engagement.
- Had wiring checked a few times and that seems right.
- Ecu should be working, is there a definite way to check?
- Mechanically engine was checked, and looks good too.

what else can i check or do? thanks!

 

what year car is this in?

do you have oil normal pressure?

 

No VTEC, the power drops off a cliff after 6500

 

Wow, stock injectors and stock 1.6 ecu and you wonder why your car isnt making power. Get a wideband, chip that ecu, and tune it with a vafc, you are running dangerously lean. It amazes me when people spent all kinds of money on their motors, but use a **** header, and no fuel management/tuning and wonder why it isnt making power.

 

- the motor is in a DA and i have normal oil pressure.

- the header was a freebie, and i didn't think it would hurt my performance that badly. plus not many header options for DAs, so i thought i could wait on it for now.

 

TIP

When the graph is that choppy, what are the possible things that coz that. Real tuners know the answer to this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TIP

When the graph is that choppy, what are the possible things that coz that. Real tuners know the answer to this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

timing issues
a/r ratio

 

woaaa, graph loks like alot of detonation is accuring. please get some bigger injectors and tune it with a wide band. id hate to see all that money spent go down the toilet. I wouldnt even consider starting/driving it again until there is better fuel management. So how much oil ya burning???

 

you need to ensure that oil pressure is getting to the vtec oil passage, how are you routing oil from the block to the head ? and on which port on the head ? sounds mechanical.

greg

 

looks like detonation, severe timing issues.

ALso check for Oil Pressure.

 

oil is routed from block to head in stock locations since i am using a GSR block.
if i wasn't getting adequate oil pressure, wouldn't i get a CEL?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dyzryd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oil is routed from block to head in stock locations since i am using a GSR block.
if i wasn't getting adequate oil pressure, wouldn't i get a CEL?</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh ok i could have sworn i saw something about b20/vtec ...

anyway, are you certain that the head guy did not plug up the oil passage hole thinking you'd be doign a b20/vtec ? if they did then no vtec from no oil pressure thru that port. If you dont wanan pull off the head then route oil externally as if it were a real b20/vtec or ls/vtec.

no, you wont necessarily get a CEL from a PWO ecu since they do not always require a "VTM" as the JDM refers to.

Greg

 

GSR block bored out to 84mm, so that's why i said b20.
my bad, i should have been clearer and stated what it actually was.

for sure the builder did not plug up the oil passage hole.

 

Heres the easiest way to see if your getting vtec xover.
1 start the car and get it to idle
carefully unplug the plug to the vtec solenoid( the top hat looking thing on the front left side of the head)(NOT the green 2 pin pkug, thats vtec pressure)
While the vtec solenoid is unplugged run a small wire and have your buddy hold it to the + side of your battery terminal, now you take the other end of that wire and touch it to the pin inside of the 1 wire vtec solenoid plug.
your just giving the sensor 12 volts now and activating it.
If v is working the car will die out or start to idle terrible because the vtec will activate and you will be on the big lobe now..If nothing happens then you know your not getting a x-over .

 

Tbone - thanks for the tip on checking to see if my vtec engages. i'll try to test it this weekend.

Rocket - i aspire to be a real tuner someday, but i'm definitely not one right now and need all the help i can get. so what are the possible things that could cause such a choppy graph? is it timing and a/f ratio? thanks!

 

I'm curious you are using the correct OBD Distributor and correct OBD ECU together right? Because the JDM B16 ECU is the PR3 I believe but I"m not 100% You need real injectors and you need Hondata at a bare minimum. I wouldn't even start or drive the car without those things.