like the title states.. im putting a b20 vtec in the rex and I cant get the last bolt out so I can mount my new mount in there. also my mounts didnt come with instructions and they are no nmae mounts. which holes do I use for the rear? there is 2 sets of holes to mount to the frame..

thanks fools

 

Just loosen up which ones you can (out of the 3) then hit it with a hammer to get at it. Takes some patience (sp). otherwise you can lower your steering rack it is held up by 4 bolts two on each far end. Either way works and I know cause I've done both.

I can't remember which holes are needed I believe they wil line them selves up

 

so jsut break off the bolt inside of the rack? the one I cant reach?

 

I used a ratcheting wrench, I think it's a 14mm. It still took a long time, that one is tough to get to.

 

I tried everything and cant get it.. my cutting torch maybe coming out tommorow

 

If you are talking about the REAR MOUNT and not the bracket then hit the MOUNT on the side to get it to swivel left or right you can get at it but you will need some swivel adapters to reach it.

OR

You can lower the steering rack on the sides, two bolts to each side, and then you will have a tad bit more room to work with. You can get the bolts out there should be NO need for Flames

 

i couldnt figure out how to get it out so i just droped the rear subframe because i needed to install my Energy suspention steering rack bushings anyway

 

cool thanks guys

 

get 2 ratchet extensions and put a swivel in the middle of them.
use the holes that the mount lines up with.

 

what you do is lossen all the bolts you can then that last bolt is left. get a pry bar and bend the mount up and then turn it like as if it was a wrench to the right if you are facing the car and the bolt will come loose then loosen the rest with your fingers. if that made any sense at all

 

well for some reason its already semi-loose. but I just cant turn hard enough with my fingers

 

The ONE tool I found that I could get to work on that bolt was a Craftsman 14mm wobble-socket. It's a socket AND a universal joint in one. Costs about $7.99, and well worth it in my book. I tried any number of different things with no luck, until a buddy (who works as a Honda tech at a local dealership) whipped out that bad boy and had the bolt out within about 30 seconds. I bought one the next day.

Mike

 

so sears would carry that?

 

hold the mount upwards at an angle and turn and it will turn the bolt
like when you go to turn the bolt pull the mount up so that it puts pressure on the bottom of the head of the bolt and when you bring the mount back to turn again keep it down

 

um, long extension held against the firewall will get it out. no need for swivels or anything like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um, long extension held against the firewall will get it out. no need for swivels or anything like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no it will not.. already tried that

 

i couldn't get at it with a angle exstention so i busted out the side grinder and cutt that bitch off. its not like your going to re-use it

 

i promise if you use the mount as a "wrench" it will come off in like 30 seconds- cake

 

Is there a mount on the rear of the b20? That should you link up to a rear mount part of your kit. Just line it up.

 

nah the b20 didnt come with a mount. but Iw as told I need a 90-93 teg rear bracket. hopefully that works. but cant find one.. I will keep you guys updated tommorow

 

are you talking about the bolt on the back of the rear mount? Just take a open end wrench and put it through the bottom of the mount theres just enough room to fit. Then get the wrench on the bolt and turn it with the mount and then hit the mount back towards the passenger side. Put the wrench on it again and do the same thing for about 10 minutes. It takes awhile but it always works for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">um, long extension held against the firewall will get it out. no need for swivels or anything like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bottle fed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no it will not.. already tried that</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a 3/8 drive ratchet, a 12-14" extension, a swivel joint, and a shallow socket. YOU CAN GET AT THAT REAR BOLT IF YOU GO AT IT FROM THE TOP. If you guys say that it cant be done, then you aren't doing it right. I personally removed the rear bolt this way when I did my swap. You just have to snake your extension along the firewall and through the tubing that is back there and come at it from the top. Come at it from the top, and use one of your hands and guide the socket onto the bolt, and use your hand to rotate the ratchet and swivel joint until it is on the bolt.

 

I lowerd that cross member/sub frame to get mine out (4 bolts). You just need to drop it an inch then you can get to it with a 14mm wrench.

 

my way works the best i think lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid1990crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my way works the best i think lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Took me about a minute or so to guide my socket down, and less then 30 seconds to loosen it. Several people also said that you can get a open ended wrench onto the rear bolt like you did, but I couldn't get it to work.