Does anyone have any advice on which swap would be more effecient/more power for an all-motor car...i.e. what would be a better platform for an allmotor set up. Any help would be appreciated.

 

B16A, more room to grow, easier parts availability, but a higher start up cost.

And before the nay-sayers talk, I'm a D-Series fanatic, I just know our limits.

 

B series

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16A, more room to grow, easier parts availability, but a higher start up cost.

And before the nay-sayers talk, I'm a D-Series fanatic, I just know our limits.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with ya' on that, but if you know where to look and have a little more creativity you can build one hell of a ZC. But with a B16 you'll have a higher bolt in hp rating, but it's gonna cost ya.

 

Don't forget the B20! Now alot of people figure that (1) the B20 is worthless without a VTEC head, and (2) the LS is just as good. But neither of these are the case. While a B20-VTEC certainly puts out more power and torque than a non-VTEC setup, even a non-VTEC B20 is quite a motor. Its power output roughly equals a B16A. But its torque output is certainly tops among the motors that you can easily swap into an ED/EF. This comes in quite handy if you actually use your four door to haul around people. It also costs little to no more than swapping in a 1994+ B18B. In fact, I consider a non-VTEC B20 to be the best bang for the buck swap out there. Yes, the ZC costs less. But it also gives you alot less. And you are never (and I repeat NEVER) going to get the kind of torque from a ZC that you can get from a B20 without some kind of forced induction. And we all know what happens when we mix stock D-series bottom ends and forced induction.

 

B-Series

I do wish I had alil more tourqe though. But, it moves.

 

i was in the same boat as you....first, i went d15b cause i got the motor for 250...it is the best bang for the buck d-series in my opinion...for a 1.5 sohc i was pleasently suprised at being able to hear vtec engage, and i felt it pull all the way to redline...my only mod was ebay intake w/ k&n filter.

eventually, i got tired of the power, and found a b-series swap i couldn't pass up...I have respect for the d15b, but i decided to go b16a... good luck with whatever you chose, because you can make anything fast with know how and can do attitude

 

i have a 88 Crx Si Rear gutted with a jdm 1st gen b16a (j1 tranny) and my friend has a 93 Civic hb with a jdm ZC his car is some what gutted he has the ex tranny. we together off the line but when my vtec kicks in i start pulling on him hard.

i still think the zc has some power but i recommend you gettting the b16

my mods: Stock jdm 1st gen b16a with k&n filter
93 civic hb mods: jdm ZC, headers, stock pipingalong with exhaust with msd ignition bla bla

 

Hmmmm..Thanks for the advice..im also a little hazey on the main contrasts in between gen1 b16a with cable tranny and the gen 2 with hydro tranny...ive seem to notice that cable trannys are more highly looked upon by racers but i also want to know the dif in the motors in between gens. cause its around 750$ more for gen2 and i want to know what im getting for that extra..ik that they both have the same power ratings and stuff but is it just cause gen2s are generally lower milage motors??

 

LS!

 

<U>here are some differnces:</U>

1st gen b16
Milky white connectors
Twin single wire O2 sensors
Cable transmission

works good with 4th gen civics(88-91)
OBD-O
specs
(JDM)160 hp @ 7600 rpm
(Canada and Europe spec)
111@7000
10.2 compression
part code pr3 pistons, etc.
external
called b16a SiR
(can., eur.) B16a5
serial numbers will usually start with a 1xxxxxxxx
“DOHC” is in a larger font than “VTEC”
OBD-O
MAP sensor is external with a tube connecting
PGM-FI
Cream colored connectors on the engine harnesses
2 single wire O2 sensor
cable transmission
cast aluminum spray bars on the inside of the oil cap.
$400-$800
y1, s1, j1, ys1 transmissions

2nd gen b16
Grey connectors
One 4-wire O2 sensor
Hydraulc transmission

3 types of 2gen b16a
b16a2
b16a3
b16a SiR II
specs
b16a2/3 160 hp @7600 rpm
(SiR II)170 hp @ 7800 rpm
10.4 compression
p30 pistons
more duration on the intake cams
better cam profile
keeps internals better lubricated
External
Serial numbers will usually start with a 5xxxxxx
USDM b16a2/3 or called SiR II
“VTEC” is in a larger font than “DOHC”
OBD-1 or 2
MAP sensor is an integral part of throttle body
MPFI
Gray connectors on the engine harnesses
One 4 wire O2 sensor
Hydraulic transmissions
Extruded aluminum spray bars on the inside of the oil cap
$1500- $3000

***dont always go by valve covers ppl can swap them out anytime.***

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PURPLETERROR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B series </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Thank you for the comparisons...Are there any diff in performance

Also what is the dif in between hydro and cable trannys?

 

although i am a fan of b16's and (of course) b18c's, i can see what that guy was saying about the bang-for-the-buck and torque of the b20. especially in a 4 door.

 

"All motor platform" is the key phrase. Theres almost no aftermarket for a ZC, but everyone and their mom makes b-series parts. You'll probably want the b-series for the naturally heavier 4-dr's. Think 100+ lbs per extra door.


"And we all know what happens when we mix stock D-series bottom ends and forced induction." Relaiable up to 200whp? 250whp with a bottomend?

 

H series

 

I have a b16 in a four door, and in runs pretty hard. Four doors are just as heavy as a si hatch so thats not that bad. I don't know how to send links but look up colt seavers and you will see it.