So I was thinking...I'm going to have to do something about all my rust. I'm going to get new fenders so I am wondering if I could cut the stock ones to fit for the rear and weld them on...anybody know if that'll work?

 

You mean for the rear quarterpanel? A fender will not work. You'll need to cut out the old quarter panel and new sheet metal for the rear quarter welded in. I'm not sure who sells rear quarter replacements.

 

Ive seen rear quarterpanel replacements on ebay. Search 88-91 civic and feed through the pages and you should find them. I see them all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You mean for the rear quarterpanel? A fender will not work. You'll need to cut out the old quarter panel and new sheet metal for the rear quarter welded in. I'm not sure who sells rear quarter replacements.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did a bad job of explaining i think...i'm getting new front fenders. i was going to cut out all the rust on the rear panels and use the front fender to replace what i cut out. I took off the front driver side fender and put it up to the rear as close as i could and it looks like it's a match.

do you think that'll work or should i just go buy some sheet metal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Losrocket_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive seen rear quarterpanel replacements on ebay. Search 88-91 civic and feed through the pages and you should find them. I see them all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm looking to save money with something i already have. thanks for the input though,

 

I've never orderd anything from them... but they seem to have a large amount of hard to find OEM parts, maybe worth a try
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

 

I don't know if that will work. You could try, I'm sure.

 

Go ahead and try it, if it doesn't work, get a rear quarter replacement later.

If it works, you saved a little cash

 

i did mine but it took alot of work.. i took medal and had it bent then welded it in the used bondo to get the rest of the curvage on the quarterpanel.. i don't think the fender idea will work though.. but good look with whatever u do

 

Some people found this post useful in the past:

This is what *I* would do:

1. Cry
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2. Wash ALL of car with simple green
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3. Spray Metal Ready on ALL of car

"After thoroughly degreasing your work piece, apply environmentally safe
METAL-READY® to both neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal.
This will allow better adhesion of POR-15® or any other paint. METAL-
READY® is not caustic, corrosive, toxic or flammable."
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
4. Prepare Glass Fiber (large fiber kind - available @ autozone) patches for holes.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
5. Por15 ALL (or nearly all) of car - including the glass fiber. Don't use any resin,
use por15 on the glass fiber while you do the rest or the car.

"CAN POR-15 BE USED WITH FIBERGLASS?
Absolutely. POR-15 is fully compatible with fiberglass and can be used to repair
cracks in gelcoat. It will adhere better than polyester resin and has greater
strength. Use also with fiberglass cloth to make super-strong surfaces in
rusted-out areas. But be aware that POR-15 doesn't contain styrene and thus
cannot melt fiberglass cloth like polyester resin does."
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
6. Prepare glass fiber (woven type also available @ autozone) for any places that
still need repair and also over the large glass fiber spots you repaired earlier.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
7. Por15 again
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8. Finish up any uneven or cracked surfaces with body filler
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9. Wet sand
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10. Paint
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Cheap, easy. If done right you won't have problems with rust anymore and you saved some weight.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
POR-15 works because it chemically bonds to rusted metal and forms a rock- hard, non-porous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It keeps moisture away from metal with a coating that is strengthened by continued exposure to moisture.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
"Rust is caused by moisture coming in contact with metal, which causes a chemical action called oxidation. All paints provide a measure of protection for a while, but since they are eventually softened and weakened by moisture, it is only a matter of time before moisture penetrates the painted surface and attacks the metal below. All of the so-called rust preventive paints on the market (except POR-15) are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 is strengthened by exposure to moisture. Notice the hardness of the POR-15 coating. It doesn't chip, crack, or peel like ordinary paints do, and its hardness will resist the wear and tear of every day life.

Rust conversion products claim to change the chemical nature of rust and convert it to a more stable element that won't rust again. History of the failure of these products is well documented; most simply don't work for more than a few months at best, and they are subject to the same chipping and cracking that occurs with ordinary rust coatings."
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
POR-15 FAQ
IMO, cutting and replacing panels will cost more.

 

Yeah, thats what I'm gonna do, but this guys car has chunks of metal missing where the metal already ate it. He's gonna need a new quarterpanel welded in.

If it seems too difficult, just do it the right way and have a new quarter panel welded in

 

Welding a new panel is great. But some people don't own a welder or their welds look like spilled guts or they can't afford the whole process.

The LARGE fiber sheets will cover any size hole just fine. Some boats and even some cars are made largely from glass fiber. It will save some weight too. I am all about saving weight

But to answer his original question, yes you can use whatever metal you have lying around to patch up holes. Replacing a whole panel is probably easier - less fab N fitment involved IMO.

 

Here..replacement panels @ $45 for the rear:

http://www.rustrepair.com/

 

i agree with the strength, but my gripe is, how well does the glass fiber bond to the metal? Will they seperate and look like crap after lots of flex? granted th rear quater may not flex much but other places do.

 

Dont replace metal with bondo..THat is stupid and dangerous..Plus the bondo will crack eventually..Do it right first time..Cut and re-weld new metal..

 

I used my front fenders on my rear quater pannels.

It's a close fit...turned out good on my car.

 

Woot Woot check out the sig on how to do rust repairs . Otherwise cut and weld. Lay down some primer (etch/epoxy) , better for bare metal to use either of those two. THEN lay down some bondo (filler) and make your curve.

WHEN welding use some stuff called Weld Thru it is like a primer/sealer that will keep the metal from distorting and I believe you don't have to paint on it. (use for parts you can't get at with primer/paint.

**** for forming metal get it as close as possible. Then use the primer then bondo.

I shaped my metal using a vise grips, needle nose, pliers, and a hammer . Use what is available.

You are looking to spend some money on the primer, weld-thru, paint, etc.

 

SHIFT_junk yard

 

marking this for future reference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.speaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont replace metal with bondo..THat is stupid and dangerous..Plus the bondo will crack eventually..Do it right first time..Cut and re-weld new metal..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I must have missed a post, but who said use bondo instead of metal?

Doing it with glass fiber is just as "right" as welding in a new panel. As I stated in my first post I would use por15 instead of glass fiber resin. I provided links that explained more in depth but since no one cares to click on them....por15 bonds to the metal and will not crack or chip and will bond the glass fiber with it.

Hell if you really wanted to shed some weight you could cut most of the paneling off and replace it this way. There is nothing wrong with that.

Do it right the first time? There is more than one right way to do things. Choose from your many "right" options. By your bandwagon reasoning a stock block turbo d16 running a log manifold and an fmu is somehow wrong. Nothing wrong with that. YOU know YOUR goals, price range, tools available, and the end result you want.

"To many sports cars specialists, glass-fiber is a perfect material. It is lighter than steel and aluminium, easy to be shaped and rust-proof. Moreover, the most important is that it is cheap to be produced in small quantity - it needs only simple tooling and a pair of hands."

 

sorry i didn't read all the info but it's nice to know that por 15 DOES infact bond to metal. This is def something im going to consider when doing my body work this summer. thanks@!

 

so your saying .. cut your front fenders to match your rear fender? why not just take some sheet metal and cut out rust and re-weld the rust spots and THEN use new front fenders