I've got a problem on one of my cars that after about 10 minutes of driving the car will start being very sluggish.

If I lift off the throttle, the car will immediately stop- it's as if i'm applying the brakes.

After this happened a few times, I realized my brakes were somehow locking up.

The brake pedal at this time would become very stiff....you can barely move it at all.

But if I turn the car off and let it cool down for a few minutes, it goes back to normal.

From what I can tell, both sides of the car are locking up.....which leads me to look elsewhere other than the brake hose.

But my symptoms of running out of brake pedal while it's happening coupled with the fact that it only happens after 10-15 minutes of driving leads me to believe that it IS a brake hose.

For the record, the car has brand new:

Calipers
Rotors
Pads
Master Cylinder which was properly bench bled
Brake Booster which had the pushrod properly adjusted

The only thing left on the system that's not been replaced are the rubber brake lines and the prop valve. I've asked around and one experienced guy says it's the hose, and another says it's the prop valve for sure.

Either way I go, it's going to be expensive, so I'm looking for a little more input.

For what it's worth, I wasn't really aware that a prop valve can go bad?

 

my friend had the same problem with his 91 4 door after a 10 -15 the brakes would get hot and start to smoke and lock up he only bought the car for 200 bucks the only problem with the was the master cylinder was. after it was replaced problem went away. double check everything if the lines look bad change them did you do all the brake work at one time im. or did you do the rotors one week then the master cylinder and so on. what im trying to say when did the problem start what was the last part you installed and trace it backwards.

 

Well, the problem has been there since before I changed everything.

I thought the calipers were just sticking, so I decided while I was at it, i would upgrade everything.

After all the new items went on (which all went on within one week of eachother), the problem persisted.

I'm not sure how to go about tracing the problem.

 

if the problem was there before to parts install it sounds like the prop vavle. go replace the prop vavle it should run you about 20-30 bucks brand new and 10-15 used from the salvage yard hope this helps. there is no point to try to trace the problem from the new parts because the problem was there before the install of the new parts hope this helps

 

Well, the only problem is that the brake prop valve is $200 from Honda.

I've yet to find another source for it; it's on my '83 1500 S. These things aren't easily found in the junkyard.

I have a spare one on a parts car, but that car has 300K on it and is beat to crap. My car has 200K and is in virtually mint shape....I don't know if I'd have much better luck with one that's got 100K more miles on it.

I guess I'll try it though. You're not too far away from me...so you know how hot it is outside right now. I'm just feeling a bit on the lazy side. lol.

Thanks for the help.

 

i understand how hot it is we bought my friends from Rusty Wallace honda for 27.95 brand new i guess we got luckly. Where are you from do you want to sell the parts car. if not we can go to a a junk yard and get you one i know a great place to get one .

 

I'm in Dallas bro.

What kind of car did you get a prop valve for $27.95?

Even at Majestic Honda, my prop valve would be ~$150.

I just replaced the valve with the one from my parts car and bled the brakes. I'm going to take it around the block when it cools off a little more and hopefully by then I'll be free of all problems!

 

Took it for a test drive and I'm afraid it's still doing the same thing after I replaced the brake prop valve.

Dangit!

 

it was for a 91 crx si you can go to honda heaven and pull a another prop valve and brake lines that is the only thing left is the brake lines

 

Jonathan, You posted this up as a reply to a thread for Sedans. I am assuming you just did a rear disc swap, correct? Well I need your help bro. Can you show me(send pics if possible) or describe in detail what you did for the swap. I've been told many things, and I want to clear the confusion, so here's what I've got for you........and thanks to anyone who can answer the $54.00 dollar question
************************************************

bought a DA rear disc brake assy for my EX sedan, however, I haven't seen any solid data to help with getting the installation going.
*
I need to know the following
1. DA = 1990 - 1993 this much I know, but did Honda change the rear trailing arms at any point, and will they all fit onto a 1991 EX?

(posted by Jonathan_ed3)
you want to swap rear disc FROM a DA ONTO an EX?

If so, all you need are the rear trailing arms and e brake cables. And then you need to change the prop valve to a 40/40 valve, which you can also swipe from the DA donor car.

Everything but the trailing arm stays. Don't swap over anything from the DA other than the trailing arm! It's all a bolt on. <FONT COLOR="blue">((I'm not understanding what this guy is saying at this point, Is he saying only the trailing arm and LCA, no need to worry about the dog bone?)))</FONT>

2. E-Brake lines, I believe that the DA lines are a perfect match, can anyone support this?

3. Are there different part number codes on the trailing arms for the DA to distinguish between the years? I am not sure which year I have.

4. I've heard that since the EX already has the bigger brake set up that the prop. valve isn't necessary, Is this true?

Thanks for your help everyone. I'll probably post this ish up on HT, why not!

 

1. You can use any year. You can actually use ANY integra 1990-2000 for the donor.

2. E-brake lines..yes, the DA lines will work fine.

3. You do not need to distinguish between the years. There's only two styles it can be. the 86-89 Integra, and the 90+ integra style.

4. The EX has a bigger brake setup...but it's my understanding that the prop valve is still the same as the LX/DX. I'm pretty sure only rear disc vehicles have the 40/40 prop valve.

- Grab the DA prop valve just to be safe. I can get them for $5 at my salvage yard all day long. If you can't find one, or can't find one for a reasonable price, I'll send you one.

6. As far as what you have in bold......all you need is the actual trailing arm. I'll take a picture of what you need.

 

cool Jonathan, thanks.

OK, This mean that I will need to sell my current RTA Energy Susp. bushings then. The bushing I have will only work for current year Civic or 94+ Integra...DAMN...I have to find the bushing for 90-93....

Thanks again and I'll wait for the pics..

 

I thought there was a way to use the 94+ RTA bushings in the 90-93 assembly?

 

this is probably what your refering to,

http://www.performanceforum.co....html

 

This problem is screaming brake booster. Almost like it's giving too much assist or channeling too much vacuum.

Have you traced the vacuum line(s) to/from the booster to verify everything's hooked up as it should be?

booster booster booster

 

What about that little one way valve that is in the booster line?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mahatma &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This problem is screaming brake booster. Almost like it's giving too much assist or channeling too much vacuum.

Have you traced the vacuum line(s) to/from the booster to verify everything's hooked up as it should be?

booster booster booster </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would the problem only begin after 10-15 minutes of driving though...and then go away after I stop using the brakes for a few minutes?

Any booster problem I've ever had has been persistent and continuous.

How would I even be able to tell if the booster is the problem? AFAIK, there's no way to check the booster for proper performance?

It better not be the booster...that thing takes like 4 hours to change in the '83.

 

^ Good questions. And I don't know any way to test a booster either.....

Sucks when trial and error is almost your only option. Especially when troubleshooting the part takes 4 hrs

I guess replace the cheapest (lines) first and move up the $$ ladder from there

 

Brake Booster Check Valve is what I'm looking at right now....

I'm using a '91 LX booster on my '83.

I called Honda looking for a check valve for the '83, and he said it's a part of the stock booster. Don't know if this is true, but the vacuum line doesn't have a check valve from the factory.

Well, the '91 uses a check valve....so I took one from my ED3 parts car and put it in line to my booster.

What do you guys think? I'm not sure the lack of a check valve would produce this sort of problem.

But then again...it very well could!

 

The DA helms manual has a nice write-up on testing the brake booster. I would assume the 91 lx booster works the same.

Function test:
with car off press pedal hard for 15 sec. If the pedal sinks the mc, brake line, or wheel cylinder is bad.

hold the brake pedal and start the car, the pedal should drop slightly. If it doesn't drop the booster or check valve is faulty.

Leak test:
with the car running press and hold the pedal, turn the car off, if the pedal pressure stays constant for 30 seconds the booster is good. If pedal rises, the booster is bad.

with car off press the pedal normally several times, pressure should rise. If it doesn't look at the check valve.

check valve test:
disconnect the hose from the booster, vacuum should be available.

 

eda6,

Thanks for the help. The booster checks out okay. It all checks out okay as a matter of fact.

The problem persists.

This is absolutely annoying!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got a problem on one of my cars that after about 10 minutes of driving the car will start being very sluggish.

If I lift off the throttle, the car will immediately stop- it's as if i'm applying the brakes.

After this happened a few times, I realized my brakes were somehow locking up.

The brake pedal at this time would become very stiff....you can barely move it at all.

But if I turn the car off and let it cool down for a few minutes, it goes back to normal.

From what I can tell, both sides of the car are locking up.....which leads me to look elsewhere other than the brake hose.

But my symptoms of running out of brake pedal while it's happening coupled with the fact that it only happens after 10-15 minutes of driving leads me to believe that it IS a brake hose.

For the record, the car has brand new:

Calipers
Rotors
Pads
Master Cylinder which was properly bench bled
Brake Booster which had the pushrod properly adjusted

The only thing left on the system that's not been replaced are the rubber brake lines and the prop valve. I've asked around and one experienced guy says it's the hose, and another says it's the prop valve for sure.

Either way I go, it's going to be expensive, so I'm looking for a little more input.

For what it's worth, I wasn't really aware that a prop valve can go bad?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol,Bump because i am having the same exact problem