For the last 2 sets of rear pads, my right rear inner brake pad has wore real uneven. I really dont know why, and inspected it tonight and again, the damn thing is wearing really uneven. Anyone had a problem similar to this in the past? I need some input on what could be the problem. Thanks.

 

replace your caliper.

 

sounds like the caliper is hanign up, could be time for a rebuild.

When was the last time you bleed the brakes??

 

Been a good while. Could bleeding the brakes possibly fix this? Or do you think the caliper is shot?

 

Same thing happened to me a couple of years ago. I changed out the caliper and it solved the problem.

 

So rebuilding versus getting another caliper, which may be the best option? (cost wise). And how hard is it to rebuld a caliper?

 

try bleeding the brakes. then if the wear persists, its caliper replacement time. fun fun.

 

yeah caliper.. im not sure if bleeding hte brakes will help.. they stick and/or lock up after awhile . just replace it.

 

So rebuild or replace?

 

bleed first, you could have an air bubble stuck.

If you want to risk it you can go to the junk yard and pull one from there.

I am not sure if you can just get a rebuilt from an auto parts store. From what i have heard the rebuild is not that bad.

 

Ok, any instructions on bleeding? I will give it a try.

 

rear brake is probably just stuck. i had this problem a while back... just pry the pucks apart

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSTEG96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rear brake is probably just stuck. i had this problem a while back... just pry the pucks apart</TD></TR></TABLE>

If its stuck, would it even work at all? I ask because it has done this for the last 2 sets of pads

 

Caliper it is

 

replace the caliper

 

So we are getting mixed answers. Should I even try to bleed the brakes to fix this, or replace the caliper all together?

 

If you have an import junkyard near you check them out. I get calipers for 15 to 20 bux all day long for hondas.

 

Personally I would replace the caliper. Your going to then have to bleed if after you change it but swapping the caliper is not bigge

RS, LS, GS, GSR 06432SR3505RM $146.66

That's the OEM part no. and cost but the rebuilds at the parts store are just fine. Most come with a 1-unlimited warranty.

When I had my dsm I put four calipers on it (all four corners) from advance auto and never had a problem once


Modified by 97tegGS at 7:54 AM 6/11/2005

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=914614 -Good On Bleeding Brakes

Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle it may damage the paint if brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water.

Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air. Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dust and other foreign particles.

Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so. Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.

Always use DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-DOT 3 brake fluid can cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system.

Remove the caliper shield.


Remove the lock pin and clevis pin. Remove the cable clip and disconnect the cable from the arm.

Remove the banjo bolt and two sealing washers.


Remove the two caliper bolts and caliper body from the bracket.


Remove the pins and pin boots from the caliper bracket.

Remove the pad spring from the caliper body.

Then take the line off and cover it with a towel. You will probably need a C-clap to press in the piston tto put it back on. Just use an old brake pad on the piston and push on that not on the piston itself

 

If I remove the caliper from the rotor, and have someone hit the brakes, would this help me identify if the caliper is working correctly?

 

not necessailry, because there won't be a load on it. IT might have enough grunt to push it out but not with 2 pads and a rotor squeezing together