Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to use?
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Texas B*tch!
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Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to use?
Hey guys,
I'm not necessarily a guy who would want to get into the track racing and whatnot, but for the street/daily driving, what could I do to improve handling/response?
Which strut tower bars would I feel most performance from? Front uppper, front lower, rear upper, rear lower, etc.. ?
Finally, what brand of whichever bars should I go with? I've heard Cusco, Neuspeed, Eibach, Suspension Techniques... and I've heard to stay away from DC Sports b/c they tend to flex.
Thanks in advance.
[Modified by ForcedAccord, 2:02 PM 2/10/2002]
I'm not necessarily a guy who would want to get into the track racing and whatnot, but for the street/daily driving, what could I do to improve handling/response?
Which strut tower bars would I feel most performance from? Front uppper, front lower, rear upper, rear lower, etc.. ?
Finally, what brand of whichever bars should I go with? I've heard Cusco, Neuspeed, Eibach, Suspension Techniques... and I've heard to stay away from DC Sports b/c they tend to flex.
Thanks in advance.
[Modified by ForcedAccord, 2:02 PM 2/10/2002]
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From: Atlanta, GA
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
They all will make a small difference, after getting a dc front upper I learned my lesson and purchased the cheapest rear upper and lower I could find, they are both tubular, with adjustable endlinks, and both flex less than the dc. If you think your steering response is slow try checking the tie rod ends, and bushings. Get under the car with it on the ground or on ramps and tug on suspension parts to see if your bushungs seem mushy. I know my rear upper control arm ones are shot, and there are probably a few more that need my attention too.
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From: San Diego, CA, USA
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
I'm not sure how much the strut tower bars help..
but there is a front , on the TypeR upper and a lower rear on the RSX type S so I would assume they help
Upper front Neuspeed or PasswordJDM
Front lower Cusco
Rear lower Neuspeed
rear upper.... no preference (I am running skunk2 (spoon copy)
Sway bar suspension Tech. adjustable
but there is a front , on the TypeR upper and a lower rear on the RSX type S so I would assume they help
Upper front Neuspeed or PasswordJDM
Front lower Cusco
Rear lower Neuspeed
rear upper.... no preference (I am running skunk2 (spoon copy)
Sway bar suspension Tech. adjustable
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From: CA, U.S.A
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
Welding a jungle gym into your car is actually the way to go and if you choose a neon hue, it adds horsepower too.
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From: I am Tyson
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForcedAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Which strut tower bars would I feel most performance from? Front uppper, front lower, rear upper, rear lower, etc.. ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
front upper is most effective. but relatively not the most effective in performance.
you need to spend money on TIRES. that is the most effective handling performance upgrade you can do.
Which strut tower bars would I feel most performance from? Front uppper, front lower, rear upper, rear lower, etc.. ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
front upper is most effective. but relatively not the most effective in performance.
you need to spend money on TIRES. that is the most effective handling performance upgrade you can do.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Welding a jungle gym into your car is actually the way to go and if you choose a neon hue, it adds horsepower too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i prefer randomly bolting aluminum tubes to parts of the chassis in X formations because we all know that X's are the strongest shapes in nature and that bolts in double shear resist deformation better than MIG welds. it doesn't matter where you put them either, because the rigidity lent to a chassis by the chaotic arrangement of metal bars is additive, and the conservation of rigidity coupled with the modulus of elasticity of the cheapest taiwanese aluminum you can buy will help keep the chassis from deflecting in all directions except along the .85i+.73j+9k kN vector, which of course is the force vector along the tangential acceleration of the chassis about the roll center-in laymen's term's: the vector pointing towards the finish line! Think about it the next time you've got a photofinish! you've got about 3kN of force deflecting the chassis towards the finish, talk about a competitive edge!
the horsepower effects of the alternator inducing an electric charge through the random metal x assemblies, thereby increasing the grounding efficiency of the electrical system, may seem miniscule, but also keep in mind that the heat transfer into the bars helps to superheat the engine air and create an endothermic vortex that will increase air density in the front fenderwell (where your CAI should be.)
the bottom line is, go buy some aluminum!
i prefer randomly bolting aluminum tubes to parts of the chassis in X formations because we all know that X's are the strongest shapes in nature and that bolts in double shear resist deformation better than MIG welds. it doesn't matter where you put them either, because the rigidity lent to a chassis by the chaotic arrangement of metal bars is additive, and the conservation of rigidity coupled with the modulus of elasticity of the cheapest taiwanese aluminum you can buy will help keep the chassis from deflecting in all directions except along the .85i+.73j+9k kN vector, which of course is the force vector along the tangential acceleration of the chassis about the roll center-in laymen's term's: the vector pointing towards the finish line! Think about it the next time you've got a photofinish! you've got about 3kN of force deflecting the chassis towards the finish, talk about a competitive edge!
the horsepower effects of the alternator inducing an electric charge through the random metal x assemblies, thereby increasing the grounding efficiency of the electrical system, may seem miniscule, but also keep in mind that the heat transfer into the bars helps to superheat the engine air and create an endothermic vortex that will increase air density in the front fenderwell (where your CAI should be.)
the bottom line is, go buy some aluminum!
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From: VNHC, CA, USA
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i prefer randomly bolting aluminum tubes to parts of the chassis in X formations because we all know that X's are the strongest shapes in nature and that bolts in double shear resist deformation better than MIG welds. it doesn't matter where you put them either, because the rigidity lent to a chassis by the chaotic arrangement of metal bars is additive, and the conservation of rigidity coupled with the modulus of elasticity of the cheapest taiwanese aluminum you can buy will help keep the chassis from deflecting in all directions except along the .85i+.73j+9k kN vector, which of course is the force vector along the tangential acceleration of the chassis about the roll center-in laymen's term's: the vector pointing towards the finish line! Think about it the next time you've got a photofinish! you've got about 3kN of force deflecting the chassis towards the finish, talk about a competitive edge!
the horsepower effects of the alternator inducing an electric charge through the random metal x assemblies, thereby increasing the grounding efficiency of the electrical system, may seem miniscule, but also keep in mind that the heat transfer into the bars helps to superheat the engine air and create an endothermic vortex that will increase air density in the front fenderwell (where your CAI should be.)
the bottom line is, go buy some aluminum!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha
get some good tires
i prefer randomly bolting aluminum tubes to parts of the chassis in X formations because we all know that X's are the strongest shapes in nature and that bolts in double shear resist deformation better than MIG welds. it doesn't matter where you put them either, because the rigidity lent to a chassis by the chaotic arrangement of metal bars is additive, and the conservation of rigidity coupled with the modulus of elasticity of the cheapest taiwanese aluminum you can buy will help keep the chassis from deflecting in all directions except along the .85i+.73j+9k kN vector, which of course is the force vector along the tangential acceleration of the chassis about the roll center-in laymen's term's: the vector pointing towards the finish line! Think about it the next time you've got a photofinish! you've got about 3kN of force deflecting the chassis towards the finish, talk about a competitive edge!
the horsepower effects of the alternator inducing an electric charge through the random metal x assemblies, thereby increasing the grounding efficiency of the electrical system, may seem miniscule, but also keep in mind that the heat transfer into the bars helps to superheat the engine air and create an endothermic vortex that will increase air density in the front fenderwell (where your CAI should be.)
the bottom line is, go buy some aluminum!
</TD></TR></TABLE>hahaha
get some good tires
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Welding a jungle gym into your car is actually the way to go and if you choose a neon hue, it adds horsepower too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
A good set of tires can take you long way 
lol
A good set of tires can take you long way
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From: CA, U.S.A
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i prefer randomly bolting aluminum tubes to parts of the chassis in X formations because we all know that X's are the strongest shapes in nature and that bolts in double shear resist deformation better than MIG welds. it doesn't matter where you put them either, because the rigidity lent to a chassis by the chaotic arrangement of metal bars is additive, and the conservation of rigidity coupled with the modulus of elasticity of the cheapest taiwanese aluminum you can buy will help keep the chassis from deflecting in all directions except along the .85i+.73j+9k kN vector, which of course is the force vector along the tangential acceleration of the chassis about the roll center-in laymen's term's: the vector pointing towards the finish line! Think about it the next time you've got a photofinish! you've got about 3kN of force deflecting the chassis towards the finish, talk about a competitive edge!
the horsepower effects of the alternator inducing an electric charge through the random metal x assemblies, thereby increasing the grounding efficiency of the electrical system, may seem miniscule, but also keep in mind that the heat transfer into the bars helps to superheat the engine air and create an endothermic vortex that will increase air density in the front fenderwell (where your CAI should be.)
the bottom line is, go buy some aluminum!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I knew it! You ARE from the future.
Monkey BARZ, y0!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i prefer randomly bolting aluminum tubes to parts of the chassis in X formations because we all know that X's are the strongest shapes in nature and that bolts in double shear resist deformation better than MIG welds. it doesn't matter where you put them either, because the rigidity lent to a chassis by the chaotic arrangement of metal bars is additive, and the conservation of rigidity coupled with the modulus of elasticity of the cheapest taiwanese aluminum you can buy will help keep the chassis from deflecting in all directions except along the .85i+.73j+9k kN vector, which of course is the force vector along the tangential acceleration of the chassis about the roll center-in laymen's term's: the vector pointing towards the finish line! Think about it the next time you've got a photofinish! you've got about 3kN of force deflecting the chassis towards the finish, talk about a competitive edge!
the horsepower effects of the alternator inducing an electric charge through the random metal x assemblies, thereby increasing the grounding efficiency of the electrical system, may seem miniscule, but also keep in mind that the heat transfer into the bars helps to superheat the engine air and create an endothermic vortex that will increase air density in the front fenderwell (where your CAI should be.)
the bottom line is, go buy some aluminum!
</TD></TR></TABLE>I knew it! You ARE from the future.
Monkey BARZ, y0!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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From: Orlando, FL
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
if you want some good advice on making your car stiffer read the last issue of scc.
as far as brands they pretty much all do the same. just depends on which ones look good to you.
as far as brands they pretty much all do the same. just depends on which ones look good to you.
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From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
Does anyone know the benefits of me installing a swing set? This has gotta be the next big thing! mad jdm yo
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: Basics for better handling on the street - Strut Bars... front upper, lower, etc.. - Brands to u
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone know the benefits of me installing a swing set? This has gotta be the next big thing! mad jdm yo</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah that's a pretty good idea, the angular momentum of the swing in addition to the centripetal acceleration of the swing's seat about a properly mounted ceiling X (or C-pillar BaR) will do much to reduce roof profile, basically smushing the car and giving it less frontal area--this means less drag! better fuel efficiency, acceleration, and top speed too!
also, the coriolis acceleration of ladybug scotch taped to the fins of a small plastic propeller air freshener tack welded to the swingset will add a stabilizing force, pretty close to the car's center of mass, working to counteract any deviant forces in the x arctan T direction, and also work to increase mechanical grip in front in rear in the ratio of (dH/dt)/d2x/dt^2 sin cos ln T: 21 e^2BHLmgT.
in short, brilliant idea!
yeah that's a pretty good idea, the angular momentum of the swing in addition to the centripetal acceleration of the swing's seat about a properly mounted ceiling X (or C-pillar BaR) will do much to reduce roof profile, basically smushing the car and giving it less frontal area--this means less drag! better fuel efficiency, acceleration, and top speed too!
also, the coriolis acceleration of ladybug scotch taped to the fins of a small plastic propeller air freshener tack welded to the swingset will add a stabilizing force, pretty close to the car's center of mass, working to counteract any deviant forces in the x arctan T direction, and also work to increase mechanical grip in front in rear in the ratio of (dH/dt)/d2x/dt^2 sin cos ln T: 21 e^2BHLmgT.
in short, brilliant idea!
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