Bolt pattern conversion?
Well, I have 2 cars, 93 Prelude Sr-V, with aftermarket rims, and stock ones and a rusty stock 90 Civic Cx. Now my baby doesn't see winter, so I have these spare stock rims...
So what I wanna do, Is sorta do up my civic for fun. I mean, cheap parts, redo some of the body to legalise it, use it as winter beater. I just wanna use my stock rims for something, so why not do a conversion to the civic from 100x4 to 114.3x4, I was just wondering what I need to do the conversion? If anyone knows, I would appreciate the knowledge. Thanks
So what I wanna do, Is sorta do up my civic for fun. I mean, cheap parts, redo some of the body to legalise it, use it as winter beater. I just wanna use my stock rims for something, so why not do a conversion to the civic from 100x4 to 114.3x4, I was just wondering what I need to do the conversion? If anyone knows, I would appreciate the knowledge. Thanks
Dont think it can be done. ive never heard of anyone doing it but if everything bolts up you could take the front knuckles and rear trailing arms off the lude and put em on the civic. but then you risk having 2 cars that dont drive. Keep it the way is is, stock lude rims arent that pretty anyway.
They look like SIR wheels in my opinion. I don't wanna take the knuckles off the lude for the civic...then I would lose my good car. I wanna strip a friends junker accord for the parts... Maybe even...4 bolt type r suspension? Would that work?
Thats what i was going to mention at first, was ITR conversion. I forgot that they made 4 bolt ITR's. That would work, but im not sure how you would go about getting around the ABS stuff. Also your brakes would suck unless you got the ITR master, booster, and prop valve. And they dont match up so your going to have to bend brake lines and stuff.
So basically if your just doing it to use the stock wheels your crazy, cause all the money you put into the conversion you coulda bought a nice used set of aftermarket wheels. But if you are doing it for the much better breaking then its defionatly worth it as ITR's have excellent brakes.
Are the lude wheels 15's ?? If they are anything smaller you may have trouble clearing the brakes.
So basically if your just doing it to use the stock wheels your crazy, cause all the money you put into the conversion you coulda bought a nice used set of aftermarket wheels. But if you are doing it for the much better breaking then its defionatly worth it as ITR's have excellent brakes.
Are the lude wheels 15's ?? If they are anything smaller you may have trouble clearing the brakes.
It can be done. I used the proportioning valve, MC, & booster from a 91 integ, 96 ITR front knuckles (w/ stock crx a-arm) and rear disks w/ 91 integ trailing arm. Swapped in SS lines while I was at it, aong with GC coilovers, yellow koni's & camber kit front and back.
It wasnt too tough. I would say the hardest thing was swapping the proportioning valve and rear hubs (why they used torx bolts will forever be a mystery to me)
Of course there are some draw backs. Since the knuckles of the ITR are a little taller you cant slam your ****. They will hit the underside of the wheel well. You will get some positive camber in the front and if you lower it a little, it almost makes it perfect. You can use a camber kit BUT they stick up about 3/4" so they smack the underside as well (if you get the SPC type). So if you can get your hands on the adjustable a-arm type w/ the flush sliding ball joint. That would be best, unfortunately the only ones Ive seen are from Vision and cost $500 a set.
But the extra stopping power has been very nice and it seems to be more responsive with steering. Im sure the knuckles geometry differences have something to do with this. And well you can get some of the nicer 4x114 wheels too.
I will add that the CRX is an HF so having only front disks and crappy stopping power is what drove the decision to do this. If it was an SI I probably wouldnt have done this and no I couldnt find any SI parts to swap over either. Plus hay who likes replacing drum shoes anyway? lol
It wasnt too tough. I would say the hardest thing was swapping the proportioning valve and rear hubs (why they used torx bolts will forever be a mystery to me)
Of course there are some draw backs. Since the knuckles of the ITR are a little taller you cant slam your ****. They will hit the underside of the wheel well. You will get some positive camber in the front and if you lower it a little, it almost makes it perfect. You can use a camber kit BUT they stick up about 3/4" so they smack the underside as well (if you get the SPC type). So if you can get your hands on the adjustable a-arm type w/ the flush sliding ball joint. That would be best, unfortunately the only ones Ive seen are from Vision and cost $500 a set.
But the extra stopping power has been very nice and it seems to be more responsive with steering. Im sure the knuckles geometry differences have something to do with this. And well you can get some of the nicer 4x114 wheels too.
I will add that the CRX is an HF so having only front disks and crappy stopping power is what drove the decision to do this. If it was an SI I probably wouldnt have done this and no I couldnt find any SI parts to swap over either. Plus hay who likes replacing drum shoes anyway? lol
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Fuuuuck that's alot of work and money for stock Sr-V rims...I think I'm just gonna trade them for some hammerheads and a set of vx rims (don't ask me why, but someone wants the Sr-V's for 2 sets of rims!)...
Hmmm... It would be baller for the civic to have 114.3x4
Hmmm... It would be baller for the civic to have 114.3x4
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