I have a 6th gen H22 accord.
Many years ago when I had the swap done, I also had the clutch and flywheel upgraded to a fidanza flywheel and ACT XTSS clutch and pressure plates.

After a few thousand miles, the slave clutch cylinder started to leak, and I had the OEM "plastic" slave cylinder replaced with a metal one.

10,000 miles later the master clutch cylinder cracked completely, and I drove home on third gear. I replaced the master clutch cylinder, which was also made out of plastic with a metal type.

I have been driving without any problems since last summer, but until two days ago I loose pressure and I cannot get into gear. It only happens for a short time, and then everything goes back to normal.

I am not leaking any fluid, and I am using dot4 fluid, so the temperature shouldn't be an effect, though it has been record hot here in NY for the week.


TIA

 

Just a question, would it be logical to say that it is only hard to get into gear until you have used the clutch several times. Also meaning that it is hard to get into gear everytime you have let it sit for some length of time but the more you use the clutch the better it feels?

If yes, then you are pumping it up and getting the air out or back up to the master cylinder, using the system will help seal the slave cylinder cup. If none of this is true then you may be looking at a worn clutch, maybe not enough to slip at normal load but you need to pump up the slave cylinder to extend the push rod out more than normal, which in turn pushes on the fork which pushes on the release bearing which pushes on the pressure plate that is sitting on a thinner clutch than when it was new.

Try pumping up the clutch everytime as a test and see if it goes into gear everytime and let us know your exact scenario or is it completely un-reproducable and unpredictable. Good luck

Duane in Japan

 

Thanks for replying.


As mentioned, the problem with getting into gear started about two days ago.

It only happened to me, while I was driving on the highway. As a matter of fact it has only happened three times. In all cases, it occurred after that I have been cruising in fifth and/or fourth gear, and I am starting to down shift as I am preparing myself to get off a highway.

I have noticed that it helps when I put it into neutral and then rev the engine up to about 3500 rpm. Once, I get into gear the car behaves like normal.


Once again, thanks for replying.


EDIT: The clutch is only 25,000 - 30,000 miles old.

It feels like I have air bubbles/leak, but the fluid level is normal.

Pumping the clutch pedal was the method used when my old slave cylinder had a leak, but I have tried that method in these instances, and it hasn't helped.

 

Im assuming you bled the system when you installed the slave and master cylinder. If it feels like u have bubbles or a leak id recommend re-bleeding the system again. When you downshift does it grind if you dont rev the motor to 3500?

 

No grinding.

Yes the system has been bled. I woulnd't need to do it again as long as the system has been intact, correct?

 

Should I re-bleed the system?

Would that really help? I wouldn't think it would help.


Modified by -Bionic- at 10:37 PM 6/11/2005

 

Well if your losing pressure double check your install and everything make sure reservoir full of fluid. I doubt you would have to rebleed if you said everything was working fine before. Another thing i would check but i doubt this would be it are your shift linkages a bit loose???

 

Yeah the fluid level is fine.. What do you mean by loose shift linkage?


Thanks

 

if its an off and on problem then i think there are bubbles in the clutch lines.

 

are we having the same problem?

take a look


https://honda-tech.com/zeropost...67857

 

Ignore the shift linkage deal i wasnt thinkin this afternoon. But you could have a worn transmission. Your synchros sound like there out preventing you to do ur 4-5th upshift smoothly. Do you like to run the transmission hard??? How many miles are on your tranny??

 

I got less than 100K on the tranny.

If the syncros are going, what can I do to solve the problem? Buy a new tranny?

 

you know, when you rev to 3500, what you're doing is double clutching. i do taht all the time cuz it's smoother that way. i think people are on the right track. i'd try bleeding the system/replacing the fluid first, and change your tranny fluid just to be on the safe side.

 

I'll re-bleed the system. As far as the tranny fluid, I change it about every 10K miles, because I try to preserve the LSD.

Any particular fluid? I'm currently using DOT4.

 

I replaced the fluid with OEM Honda brake fluid, but there is no real difference.

At times the engagement point is at the floor, and most of the times it's an inch or so above the floor.

Why does the pressure of the clutch pedal fluctuate?

 

mebbe u have a master cyl 'internal leak' like i've heard on brake master cyl... if that aftermarket master cyl carries a lifetime warranty, i'd get that replaced & recheck the pedal adjustment settings.
(had to do that on my nissan)

 

Thanks for the reply.

It's not an aftermarket Master Cylinder. I bought it from the Honda Dealer.

How can I check and see if it's leaky, other than removing it completely.

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How can I check and see if it's leaky, other than removing it completely.</TD></TR></TABLE>Go to the tranny bellhousing, check out the throw-out fork at the slave cylinder. Have someone pump the clutch up & down a few times.

The slave piston (& throw-out fork) should move back & forth about 12mm or 13mm.

After pumping, hold the pedal down to the floor. Watch the throw-out fork while the pedal is held down on the floor for like 5 minutes. If the throw-out fork slowly creeps back & pushes the slave piston back into the slave cylinder, then something's wrong. Look for any external leaks (hydraulic hose or leaking from the slave alongside the piston rod). If there's no external leaks, then your MC must be leaking internally.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At times the engagement point is at the floor, and most of the times it's an inch or so above the floor.</TD></TR></TABLE>This part really sounds like air in the system. You bled it when changing fluid, right? Sometimes I've had trouble getting air in the MC if I let the pedal snap up quickly when bleeding. Control the pedal while bleeding to raise it more slowly.



Modified by JimBlake at 2:10 PM 6/30/2005

 

Hey thanks for the info JimBlake

I"ll go and take your advice. I'll update the results soon.

EDIT: Is it possible that air may come in due to external heat? Since, we are using brake fluid that tends to absorb water with time, and water release air when boiling. Ehh, I don't know, but I would like to know why all of a sudden [Over a year since I installed the clutch] I am having problems getting into gear.


TIA