I got some 15 in. steelies off a 01 EX for free and would like to put some Azenis on them for road racing use. My instructor at Roebling a few weeks ago didnt think it was a great idea for a brake intensive track like Sebring which I am planning to attend a few times this year along with Roebling. My current brake setup for track is Panther + up front with R4S out back with removed "heat sinks" and Ate. Has anyone had any expereince with these POS wheels without any problems? I know its not optimal, but the $$ isnt avail. right now to throw down another $400 on wheels. Thanks!

 

I'm surprised no one suggested brake ducting. Would help regardless of whether or not you got an extra set of alloys. And can be done for cheap using heater hose (I used metal bendy straw type) and zip ties. Have to admit it looks rather ghetto on my car though.


-al

Hey, notice same setup. P+ front (R4S street/autox), R4S back, Ate Superblue

 

I have used the 2001 15" steel wheels on my si. I had kumho tires and went to deals gap with them and that isn't even on a track. I had endless pads and valvoline synthetic DOT 4+ fluid at the time. By the end of the second run i had so much smoke comming out of the wheels since they were so hot. I would highly suggest not running them as they have no ventilation. just save up for a little while and get some cheap rotas.


[Modified by ryan12321, 4:08 PM 2/10/2002]

 

I'd be more worried about the wheels deflecting too much under those cornering forces....steel wheels are much more flexible (that's why hubcaps always fly off cars in high speed chases in the movies ) than their alloy counterparts. I'll be on Azenis and rota slipstreams at VIR in a couple of weeks, i'm not expecting any problems, naturally.

 

Is the ATE you're using Super Blue? If not, maybe try a higher degree brake fluid. Motul 600? Regardless though, brake ducting is gonna be your solution. Either that or brake sooner. And I know you don't want to do that. . .

 

Wow, thats pretty scary and discouraging.

 

Yes, its superblue. The fluid wont have that much to do with under-ventaliation over heating brakes. I dont want to run the ducts on the street, how hard would it be to rig something up for the weekend?

 

have you thought about running the steelies on the street and put the Azenis on the alloy rims?

 

Nah, steelies on the street would just look too goofy for me. I dont really care about looks at all on the track, but for street use id like to stick with stock rims.

 

and dont forget those 15's weight 20lb each. when i got my rotas(12lb) on they brake much faster and handled much better. I just wouldn't want to drive on that heavy of a wheel especially on a track.

 

alright well thanks all for the replies, I guess no steelies for me.

 

Suspect it was the pads.
My R4S fronts were smoking the 1st time on track also. Fluid boiled so badly it was a scary drive home.

With your P+, I suspect your fluid will boil (536 deg) long before your pads start disintegrating (website says range 150F to 1300F ). I boiled my fluid (not as badly this time) but the pads were not smoking. Rotor registered above gun pyrometer's range (>600 deg).


-al

 

Alright, I guess I should re-state my question as to Ate Superblue can hold up to the abuse of steel wheels and Sebring long course since everyone is getting side tracked with pads.

 

personally, I don't think that they would have enough airflow to let the rotors bleed off heat energy. If you rigged up some ducting, then I think that you could do it. I still think that it would be best in the long run to try and find a set of used factory rims or some cheap aftermarket ones instead though...

as always, my $0.02

 

Yea I decided to go for some custom rate GC's instead of my dedicated Azenis/steelies plan. Im gonna wait a while until I can get some nicer wheels and wait for the new kumhos to come out until I go with a dedicated track tire. BTW, Xian- did you look into the Chin school in April @ Sebring? Novice is already full but you can probably talk to Ernie and get moved into Solo group.

 

Brake fluid DOES have a lot to do with over heating brakes!! Especially if you are underventaliated. At your heavy braking tracks, if you run some random fluid even with the Panther +, you'll still boil the fluid thus having ineffective brakes. Vice versa is true also: regular pads + high temp. fluid = ineffective brakes. To withstand the potential temps you're talking about requires that every part of your braking system be up to the task.

It seems your question was if anybody had experience with "steelies." With a side question, or rather concern, on this setup not being optimal for a big braking road course.

Question 1) No. Question/Concern 2) I think you should try your present setup and see if you get any kind of fade, brake and/or fluid. Measure your temperatures and then if they're past the max listed for the products you're using. If they are, buy some aftermarket ducts or make your own ghetto versions.

 

Yes I am aware that the fluid and pads have ALOT to do with the heat of the braking system. It just seemed like a few were getting OT. Anyway, you idea sounds great, currently I have some pretty beat Kumho victos mounted on those steelies that I use for AutoX. I will bring them to the event and see how they do. If I encounter fade, I just switch back to my factory wheels and Kumho 712's and do a quick bleed and all is well. Great recommendation! I was trying to get new tires before the event, but I just need to calm myself and see how the rims hold up before I go out and spend $400 on rims.

 

Well I just thought of a random idea... How about I remove the factory fogs on track days so fresh air can get in there. Easy, free ducts!

 

You can always get the Azenis for street tires after your Kumho's are completely gone

I was told that I was signed off on for Sebring after the last event... I don't think that I'd have to run novice there in April. I just can't believe that it's already filling up!! Guess I'm going to have to get registered in the next few days

 

Seems like they'd work really well... just get some dryer ducting and zip-ties to hold everything in place and you'll be set!

 

Yea I was thinking of the Azenis for the street but they are too soft for me for street use. Keep me updated on the wear of your tires.

Dont be so sure about being able to drive solo. I contacted Ernie today about me being in the novice run group and he said that you need to get signed off at each track to be able to run solo. Eventhough Dan, my instructor at Sebring, told me verbaly I should be signed off, dosent count until they get the signed forms. Oh well, fine by me as long as I dont have to pay an extra $50 for being a novice. Are they inforcing that?

 

well, Azenis wear is currently at 4500 street miles (I think) and 350 track miles... still have about 50% of the trad left getting equal wear to what I got with my RE010's

I was told also that I would be signed off on for Sebring but I'm not sure if the papers got filed b/c my instructor totaled his Porsche and was a little preoccupied I'll drop an email to Ernie and Wei-Shin... see what they have to say... fwiw, I just registered


[Modified by Xian, 12:36 AM 2/11/2002]

 

sweet see ya on there. Im actually thinking about driving down Sun morning if I cant get a floor of someones room. I dont feel like paying the ridiculous amount for the Chateu.

 

well, I'm going and David (red Mustang) should be going (gotta call him tomorrow and tell him that they're filling up)... we could all split a room at the Chateau or one of the other places right in Sebring. Either way it'd be pretty cheap

 

sweet, im in.