need alternator suggestions...
my alternator is about to take a crap. Im just wondering if most integra/honda alternators are interchangeable (OBD2) or maybe have mine rebuilt (not sure of the reliability of that though). I did some searching and part number comparing but wasnt able to find out for sure. just looking to save a few bucks and dont really want to get something from a junkyard. wondering if something like a 97 Del Sol VTEC, 99-00 SI, 00 GSR, etc would work. thanks
Ryan
Ryan
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
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From: With my POS D15B2, Whereever whenever, United States
I got a 99-00 alternator that works.
From my previous SI.
let me know it works and you can test it at autozone
want 65 buck
thanks
pm me if interested
From my previous SI.
let me know it works and you can test it at autozone
want 65 buck
thanks
pm me if interested
TTT, need to fix this ASAP. I think Im just going to use a generic one from autozone or something, unless anyone has a better idea.
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF A 99-00 CIVIC SI OR OTHER OBD2 WILL WORK?? THE PRICE DIFFERENCE IS HUGE. And how much do amps matter, some are listed as 80, some are 90, etc. Im guessing the higher the better?
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF A 99-00 CIVIC SI OR OTHER OBD2 WILL WORK?? THE PRICE DIFFERENCE IS HUGE. And how much do amps matter, some are listed as 80, some are 90, etc. Im guessing the higher the better?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 255.255.255.255 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">V (watts) = I (amphere) * R (ohms)
i'd assume amps matters....as resistance stays the same.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
j00 suck.
Voltage (volts) = Current (amps) * Resistance (ohms)
Power (Watts) = Current (amps) * Votage (volts)
V=IR, P=IV, yeah.
i'd assume amps matters....as resistance stays the same.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
j00 suck.
Voltage (volts) = Current (amps) * Resistance (ohms)
Power (Watts) = Current (amps) * Votage (volts)
V=IR, P=IV, yeah.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And how much do amps matter, some are listed as 80, some are 90, etc. Im guessing the higher the better?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Higher is "better", but larger, heavier, more resistance to spinning.
If your stereo is near-stock (not monsterous), and you don't have an ungodly amount of lighting, you can probably use a small/OEM one just fine.
If you have a 400 watt stereo, it could draw at least 400/12= 33 amps, plus a little more for inefficiency in the amp. Other than a stereo, headlights are the next big user, you should be able to calculate the current to use them if you want. Ignition/FI/ECU probably the next biggest.
Higher is "better", but larger, heavier, more resistance to spinning.
If your stereo is near-stock (not monsterous), and you don't have an ungodly amount of lighting, you can probably use a small/OEM one just fine.
If you have a 400 watt stereo, it could draw at least 400/12= 33 amps, plus a little more for inefficiency in the amp. Other than a stereo, headlights are the next big user, you should be able to calculate the current to use them if you want. Ignition/FI/ECU probably the next biggest.
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From: With my POS D15B2, Whereever whenever, United States
all obd2 b series alternator are the same
i'll give away my alternator for 50 and you can test it at autozone to verify it works.
it is OEM honda
i'll give away my alternator for 50 and you can test it at autozone to verify it works.
it is OEM honda
hrmmm, the stock Alt has held up fine against my 900wt stereo just fine. But the battery takes a beating and has been replaced a few times.
Stock Alt - pretty damm good.
Stock Alt - pretty damm good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
j00 suck.
Voltage (volts) = Current (amps) * Resistance (ohms)
Power (Watts) = Current (amps) * Votage (volts)
V=IR, P=IV, yeah.</TD></TR></TABLE>
shhh...dont rain on my parade...i was almost right.
j00 suck.
Voltage (volts) = Current (amps) * Resistance (ohms)
Power (Watts) = Current (amps) * Votage (volts)
V=IR, P=IV, yeah.</TD></TR></TABLE>
shhh...dont rain on my parade...i was almost right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hrmmm, the stock Alt has held up fine against my 900wt stereo just fine. But the battery takes a beating and has been replaced a few times.
Stock Alt - pretty damm good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That and you ran a small city with a power inverter off of it at expo.
The stock alt works pretty damn well.
Stock Alt - pretty damm good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That and you ran a small city with a power inverter off of it at expo.
The stock alt works pretty damn well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hrmmm, the stock Alt has held up fine against my 900wt stereo just fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
When I said "could" draw, let me clarify.
If you were playing a sine wave at a constant (maximum) level, the rated 400 watt output of a stereo, it will draw no less than 33 amps.
"Music" has high and low points, and you'd probably clip a 900 watt amp before you got to an average of 400 watts of output with a normal song.
When I said "could" draw, let me clarify.
If you were playing a sine wave at a constant (maximum) level, the rated 400 watt output of a stereo, it will draw no less than 33 amps.
"Music" has high and low points, and you'd probably clip a 900 watt amp before you got to an average of 400 watts of output with a normal song.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all obd2 b series alternator are the same
i'll give away my alternator for 50 and you can test it at autozone to verify it works.
it is OEM honda</TD></TR></TABLE>
you say the are the same, yet the all seem to have different amp ratings so essentially they are not the same, which is why i didnt give your first response much validity. how many miles are on the alternator you are selling?
chris and tom, all that fancy math **** means nothing to me. keep it simple for those like myself that have no clue when it comes to equations and formulas, etc.
btw my entire electrical system is stock. so can I assume that a 99-00 CIVIC SI (80amps) will work just fine on my car? The ITR alternator is listed as 90amps on autozones website.
MugenHonda, I will get back to you once I find out if autozones alts are rebuilds or not.
i'll give away my alternator for 50 and you can test it at autozone to verify it works.
it is OEM honda</TD></TR></TABLE>
you say the are the same, yet the all seem to have different amp ratings so essentially they are not the same, which is why i didnt give your first response much validity. how many miles are on the alternator you are selling?
chris and tom, all that fancy math **** means nothing to me. keep it simple for those like myself that have no clue when it comes to equations and formulas, etc.
btw my entire electrical system is stock. so can I assume that a 99-00 CIVIC SI (80amps) will work just fine on my car? The ITR alternator is listed as 90amps on autozones website.
MugenHonda, I will get back to you once I find out if autozones alts are rebuilds or not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DURALAST-IMPORT 12013 LLT $85.00 $219.99</TD></TR></TABLE> from Autozone...
Interesting... No comment about reman or new, then I guess it has to be new.
Interesting... No comment about reman or new, then I guess it has to be new.
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From: With my POS D15B2, Whereever whenever, United States
obviously autozone alternators are REMAN, thats why they take cores, same like any other parts store, such as axles, starters, etc.
so its off by 10 amps, i know it will still work. It had 30k when i pulled it.
and like I said, you can test it at autozone, so you'll know it works
so its off by 10 amps, i know it will still work. It had 30k when i pulled it.
and like I said, you can test it at autozone, so you'll know it works
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> from Autozone...
Interesting... No comment about reman or new, then I guess it has to be new. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and CIVIC SI = 149.99 = quite a difference in price, and only 10amps difference. I just dont know if it will physically bolt up, and if the harness connector is the same.
MugenHonda Ill let you know probably by wednesday.
Interesting... No comment about reman or new, then I guess it has to be new. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and CIVIC SI = 149.99 = quite a difference in price, and only 10amps difference. I just dont know if it will physically bolt up, and if the harness connector is the same.
MugenHonda Ill let you know probably by wednesday.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,672
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From: With my POS D15B2, Whereever whenever, United States
the reason why i pulled it was because i thought i had a bad alternator, turns out one of my grounds was rusted, causing the charge to not circulate as it should, thus bad battery.
regardless, let me know
i know for a fact all obd2 b series alternator are the same
regardless, let me know
i know for a fact all obd2 b series alternator are the same
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