My 96-98Spec Brake Swap - PICS 56k :thumbsup:
Hey, The other night, proceeded to do my brake conversion on my 1997 JDM ITR.
Parts used were 98Spec Brake Calipers, BB4 Prelude Rotors.
Well we all know what the stock ones look like.. Tiny...

So after the swap, (arent we glad most honda parts just interchange?
) we had this.. slightly worried about the clearance you may not be able to see here...
But i am planning on skimming the rotors a tad in the next day or two.

Just a little bit of rust.. get that from having the rotors in storage for 12 months.., donated unwillingly by my old BB4 VTEC Prelude (R.I.P
)
So as the 15's went back on after the fluid bleed, almost had a heart attack, god dam, that is a tight fit. If the rotors were brand new, the calipers would NOT fit behind the 15's. But seiing as they arent..


.. this is all the clearance i need.
Still getting used to the new heavy haul up, the ABS is a little sketchy at certian speeds under heavy braking, but i doubt the crappy tires i have is helping the situation that much (oh and the ABS was NOT bleed.. as i didnt know how, and didnt know i had too! so that could be a good reason too. New pads also need a bit of a wear in, so once the rotors are skimmed, wear away
Overall, very happy. Looks good too.

Might touch up that nasty green pad mind you.. i wasnt aware it would show up that much haha..
Parts used were 98Spec Brake Calipers, BB4 Prelude Rotors.
Well we all know what the stock ones look like.. Tiny...

So after the swap, (arent we glad most honda parts just interchange?
) we had this.. slightly worried about the clearance you may not be able to see here...But i am planning on skimming the rotors a tad in the next day or two.

Just a little bit of rust.. get that from having the rotors in storage for 12 months.., donated unwillingly by my old BB4 VTEC Prelude (R.I.P
)So as the 15's went back on after the fluid bleed, almost had a heart attack, god dam, that is a tight fit. If the rotors were brand new, the calipers would NOT fit behind the 15's. But seiing as they arent..


.. this is all the clearance i need.
Still getting used to the new heavy haul up, the ABS is a little sketchy at certian speeds under heavy braking, but i doubt the crappy tires i have is helping the situation that much (oh and the ABS was NOT bleed.. as i didnt know how, and didnt know i had too! so that could be a good reason too. New pads also need a bit of a wear in, so once the rotors are skimmed, wear away
Overall, very happy. Looks good too.

Might touch up that nasty green pad mind you.. i wasnt aware it would show up that much haha..
awesome!
This is actually a rather popular swap for 96spec ITR owners who want the better brakes of the 98spec without going for 5 lug.
U could also add a 2mm spacer up front if you want a bit more clearance and piece of mind. Try looking for a 98spec master cylinder as well....this will improve the brake feel considerably.
The 98spec rear calipers go on but you will obviously need to get the bigger rotors as well. Not sure if there is a direct size (like from the BB4) but it has been done with redrilled 5X114.3 rotors to go on a 4X100 setup.
This is actually a rather popular swap for 96spec ITR owners who want the better brakes of the 98spec without going for 5 lug.
U could also add a 2mm spacer up front if you want a bit more clearance and piece of mind. Try looking for a 98spec master cylinder as well....this will improve the brake feel considerably.
The 98spec rear calipers go on but you will obviously need to get the bigger rotors as well. Not sure if there is a direct size (like from the BB4) but it has been done with redrilled 5X114.3 rotors to go on a 4X100 setup.
The Lack of clearance between the rotors and brackets is scary! What happens when the rotor heats up and expands?
Is there any gap between the rotors in the back? If so, you should space them out. If no gap, then you should look into 1995 Legend GS Brackets which have more space for a thicker disc but are otherwise the same as the ITR's. Also, you should really look into so spacers on the front.
Brake system as is looks more dangerous than stock...
Is there any gap between the rotors in the back? If so, you should space them out. If no gap, then you should look into 1995 Legend GS Brackets which have more space for a thicker disc but are otherwise the same as the ITR's. Also, you should really look into so spacers on the front.
Brake system as is looks more dangerous than stock...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 808dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice job
</TD></TR></TABLE>
JDM goodness
</TD></TR></TABLE>
JDM goodness
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GPNY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Lack of clearance between the rotors and brackets is scary! What happens when the rotor heats up and expands?
Is there any gap between the rotors in the back? If so, you should space them out. If no gap, then you should look into 1995 Legend GS Brackets which have more space for a thicker disc but are otherwise the same as the ITR's. Also, you should really look into so spacers on the front.
Brake system as is looks more dangerous than stock...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rotors are made so they dont expand. I dont get any rubbage so all is well.
Spacers on the front wont help. THere is not enough room between the caliper and the wheel to allow for them, so getting the rotors skimmed is the best and only option.
Cant use a caliper with more space for the same reason as above.
Is there any gap between the rotors in the back? If so, you should space them out. If no gap, then you should look into 1995 Legend GS Brackets which have more space for a thicker disc but are otherwise the same as the ITR's. Also, you should really look into so spacers on the front.
Brake system as is looks more dangerous than stock...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rotors are made so they dont expand. I dont get any rubbage so all is well.
Spacers on the front wont help. THere is not enough room between the caliper and the wheel to allow for them, so getting the rotors skimmed is the best and only option.
Cant use a caliper with more space for the same reason as above.
Sorry, I meant to say that you should get wheel spacers to make space between the wheel and the caliper. Once you would have those spacers (Maybe - 5-8mm thick) you could space the calipers out to give you space for the rotor.)
This could be critical for you if you hit a pothole and slightly bent a rim. If you have no space, the rim can make contact with the caliper and lock your tire... not safe...
Also, You say that rotors are made so they don't expand which is wrong - all metals expand when they heat up, and you have no space to accomodate it. for example, a few years ago I was working on my university's FSAE race car and the duralcan rotors we were using had to be resized slighly due to caliper contact when warm.
I am not trying to put you down, but safety should always come first when it comes to brakes on a road car. It's going to cost you about $50 for spacers which is a small price to pay for something that could save your life.
This could be critical for you if you hit a pothole and slightly bent a rim. If you have no space, the rim can make contact with the caliper and lock your tire... not safe...
Also, You say that rotors are made so they don't expand which is wrong - all metals expand when they heat up, and you have no space to accomodate it. for example, a few years ago I was working on my university's FSAE race car and the duralcan rotors we were using had to be resized slighly due to caliper contact when warm.
I am not trying to put you down, but safety should always come first when it comes to brakes on a road car. It's going to cost you about $50 for spacers which is a small price to pay for something that could save your life.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black cx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey, gotta question...my rotors are flapping...what does that mean...its on tight with the 2 screws but it is falping</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm, possibly you put the locator screws in the wrong place? I dont know, mine dont "flap around" at all. You dont actually need the screws, the calipers hold the rotors firmly in place, but i prefer to use them just for added piece of mind.
Just an update too, got the rotors skimmed this afternoon, bloddy good now, dont rub. Clearance between the caliper and rotor is still that small, but theres no grinding/rubbing even when hot. So all
Umm, possibly you put the locator screws in the wrong place? I dont know, mine dont "flap around" at all. You dont actually need the screws, the calipers hold the rotors firmly in place, but i prefer to use them just for added piece of mind.
Just an update too, got the rotors skimmed this afternoon, bloddy good now, dont rub. Clearance between the caliper and rotor is still that small, but theres no grinding/rubbing even when hot. So all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GPNY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, You say that rotors are made so they don't expand which is wrong - all metals expand when they heat up, and you have no space to accomodate it. for example, a few years ago I was working on my university's FSAE race car and the duralcan rotors we were using had to be resized slighly due to caliper contact when warm.
I am not trying to put you down, but safety should always come first when it comes to brakes on a road car. It's going to cost you about $50 for spacers which is a small price to pay for something that could save your life.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have been corrected. Someone informed me that they dont expand. But sounds as if they do. Like i said in the above post, they no longer have any rubbage issues even when heated. Iv taken it for a good long drive over a little (well not so little) hill called the Rimutakas in Wellington (New Zealand) and if theres any welly people out there, you know how harsh that road can be on brakes even at normal driving speeds
No fade either
happy as larry
Also, You say that rotors are made so they don't expand which is wrong - all metals expand when they heat up, and you have no space to accomodate it. for example, a few years ago I was working on my university's FSAE race car and the duralcan rotors we were using had to be resized slighly due to caliper contact when warm.
I am not trying to put you down, but safety should always come first when it comes to brakes on a road car. It's going to cost you about $50 for spacers which is a small price to pay for something that could save your life.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have been corrected. Someone informed me that they dont expand. But sounds as if they do. Like i said in the above post, they no longer have any rubbage issues even when heated. Iv taken it for a good long drive over a little (well not so little) hill called the Rimutakas in Wellington (New Zealand) and if theres any welly people out there, you know how harsh that road can be on brakes even at normal driving speeds
No fade either
happy as larry
Got food? Got soup? Got spice? Got cars like us? Got girls like us? F**k no hell, you're white, you'll never be like us.
Just commenting on your signature.
Just commenting on your signature.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Chugger
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
1
Oct 7, 2001 07:36 AM





