I Hate LCA bolts [Rant]
Rant.
So I decided to lower my car finally, got some KYB AGXs and Neuspeed Sport Springs. My friend and I put the two fronts on no problems, well, getting the bolt back into the arm and shock fork was fun
Anyway, we go to do the dreaded rears. Nut is tig welded on, we have to jump on the torque wrench to break it loose. Do that no problem. And then we're stuck. That bolt is not going ANYWHERE.
Hammering it out
PB Blaster and Hammering
Manually trying to turn it
Impact Gun
So the next idea we have is to visit his uncle's shop, he runs a dirt track race car, and hopefully has the right drill bits to drill this sucker out. So for awhile I'm 1/2 lowered. lol.
/Rant
So I decided to lower my car finally, got some KYB AGXs and Neuspeed Sport Springs. My friend and I put the two fronts on no problems, well, getting the bolt back into the arm and shock fork was fun
Anyway, we go to do the dreaded rears. Nut is tig welded on, we have to jump on the torque wrench to break it loose. Do that no problem. And then we're stuck. That bolt is not going ANYWHERE.
Hammering it out
PB Blaster and Hammering
Manually trying to turn it
Impact Gun
So the next idea we have is to visit his uncle's shop, he runs a dirt track race car, and hopefully has the right drill bits to drill this sucker out. So for awhile I'm 1/2 lowered. lol.
/Rant
I dunno what vehicle this is on but my 97 hatch and my 98 coupe both fell apart when i swapped coilovers. Just unbolt it, tap the LCA bolt out and it all just comes apart from there because once the suspension isnt loaded, there isnt so much energy exerting itself onto the suspension arms.
The nut usually is tig welded onto the mount for the rear struts...just loosen male section of the assembly and voila!!
The nut usually is tig welded onto the mount for the rear struts...just loosen male section of the assembly and voila!!
Some times you got to take it easy and let things simmer.
You should have soaked the bolts with some penatrant the day before. That way it would have given the chemical some time to loosen things up for you.
If the head of the bolt is still there. Soak everything with some brake cleaner and that pb stuff. Shoot the head on the sides of the bushing and the threads sticking out the other end. Let it chill for a while. Then go back and shoot it again.
Then with a clear head go out there the next day, with a large set of vice grips, cheater bar and clamp that sucker onto the head of the bolt as tight as you possible can. Then try twisting it out.
You should have soaked the bolts with some penatrant the day before. That way it would have given the chemical some time to loosen things up for you.
If the head of the bolt is still there. Soak everything with some brake cleaner and that pb stuff. Shoot the head on the sides of the bushing and the threads sticking out the other end. Let it chill for a while. Then go back and shoot it again.
Then with a clear head go out there the next day, with a large set of vice grips, cheater bar and clamp that sucker onto the head of the bolt as tight as you possible can. Then try twisting it out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You also shouldn't be loosening things with a torque wrench. That'll possibly screw up the calibration.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now that I think about it, we weren't using a torque wrench, just a socket wrench similar in size. Good advice though
Now that I think about it, we weren't using a torque wrench, just a socket wrench similar in size. Good advice though
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hanson said
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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May 29, 2003 10:45 AM




