any1 have any suggestions

and dont say scrap the car.. i spent 450 bucks on it and i want to work on it

any ideas?

here is a link for pictures

http://www.rankmyride.com/?pag...num=2

 

wow, thats alot of rust. your best bet would find someone to cut and weld in new sheet metal for a decent price

 

ya eh.

 

eh my old rex was MUCH worse. almost fit my fist thru a rust hole.....i say cut and weld

 

450!! thats alot for that, just buy another, you can get rust free ones for that.

No reputable shop would touch that unlell they were so slow they didnt have one car to work on.
Unless you can find a guy on the side its not going to get done, I wouldnt touch it, if you knew everything about rust neither would you.

 

we wouldnt even touch that thing at our shop

 

Fighting rust is a losing battle from my personal experience. And you got some nasty rust.

 

i think im gonna just bondo as much as i can
and paint it over black

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by labatia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think im gonna just bondo as much as i can
and paint it over black</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but when you do that in like 5 months it will show up and then you will have to redo it again. good luck

 

cough cough
drive the car for 4 months
then sell lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by labatia &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think im gonna just bondo as much as i can
and paint it over black</TD></TR></TABLE>

WORST IDEA EVER

It will be back in days to weeks

 

I would cut out ALL the rust, weld metal into the inside, bondo over it, primer and paint. If you cut out all the rust you should be ok. Rust is like an infection, if you leave even a little it will spread again.

 

Looks like a good car to learn and practice body work on!!!

Brush off the flakey stuff, Cut the least amount off, then grind the rest of the rust down and POR-15 it until you're ready for some welding.

 

two words= widebody kit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">450!! thats alot for that, just buy another, you can get rust free ones for that.

No reputable shop would touch that unlell they were so slow they didnt have one car to work on.
Unless you can find a guy on the side its not going to get done, I wouldnt touch it, if you knew everything about rust neither would you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kid-honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

WORST IDEA EVER

It will be back in days to weeks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Listen to this guy

 

Well, its a good chance to learn how to do some bodywork. good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HumanResource &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brush off the flakey stuff, Cut the least amount off, then grind the rest of the rust down and POR-15 it until you're ready for some welding.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

More bad info IF YOU MUST DO THIS you need to cut way beyong the rust so the only thing thats left it shiny clean metal.

If rust repair was body work we would do it at the shops

Unless you got a 1939 whatever that they only made 10 of dont bother, find another, its not like there are no rust free civic/crx's, I have had a bunch.

 

Lets say that I had a car that had minor rust spots, like.. where rock chips that peeled the paint are turning brown. Are those type of rust just a matter of sanding down to the metal, clearing the rust, and repriming/painting?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lets say that I had a car that had minor rust spots, like.. where rock chips that peeled the paint are turning brown. Are those type of rust just a matter of sanding down to the metal, clearing the rust, and repriming/painting?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes them are OK and easily saved if properly repaired

 

What I'm worried about, is there is a strip of metal that sticks up that my window trim connects to at the bottom on the outside, the rubber strip? Underneath it is real brown, I hope I don't have to cut that rust out :\

 

Without really getting in there and seeing it in person its hard to say but toss up a pic if you can and maybe we can help determine how bad it is for ya.

 

This is what *I* would do:

1. Cry
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
2. Wash ALL of car with simple green
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
3. Spray Metal Ready on ALL of car

"After thoroughly degreasing your work piece, apply environmentally safe
METAL-READY® to both neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal.
This will allow better adhesion of POR-15® or any other paint. METAL-
READY® is not caustic, corrosive, toxic or flammable."
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
4. Prepare Glass Fiber (large fiber kind - available @ autozone) patches for holes.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
5. Por15 ALL (or nearly all) of car - including the glass fiber. Don't use any resin,
use por15 on the glass fiber while you do the rest or the car.

"CAN POR-15 BE USED WITH FIBERGLASS?
Absolutely. POR-15 is fully compatible with fiberglass and can be used to repair
cracks in gelcoat. It will adhere better than polyester resin and has greater
strength. Use also with fiberglass cloth to make super-strong surfaces in
rusted-out areas. But be aware that POR-15 doesn't contain styrene and thus
cannot melt fiberglass cloth like polyester resin does."
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
6. Prepare glass fiber (woven type also available @ autozone) for any places that
still need repair and also over the large glass fiber spots you repaired earlier.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
7. Por15 again
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
8. Finish up any uneven or cracked surfaces with body filler
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
9. Wet sand
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
10. Paint
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
Cheap, easy. If done right you won't have problems with rust anymore and you saved some weight.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
POR-15 works because it chemically bonds to rusted metal and forms a rock- hard, non-porous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It keeps moisture away from metal with a coating that is strengthened by continued exposure to moisture.
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
"Rust is caused by moisture coming in contact with metal, which causes a chemical action called oxidation. All paints provide a measure of protection for a while, but since they are eventually softened and weakened by moisture, it is only a matter of time before moisture penetrates the painted surface and attacks the metal below. All of the so-called rust preventive paints on the market (except POR-15) are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 is strengthened by exposure to moisture. Notice the hardness of the POR-15 coating. It doesn't chip, crack, or peel like ordinary paints do, and its hardness will resist the wear and tear of every day life.

Rust conversion products claim to change the chemical nature of rust and convert it to a more stable element that won't rust again. History of the failure of these products is well documented; most simply don't work for more than a few months at best, and they are subject to the same chipping and cracking that occurs with ordinary rust coatings."
************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************
POR-15 FAQ
IMO, cutting and replacing panels will cost more.

 

Wow, buddy. I prayed really hard at church on Sunday, and i must say, that post is a miracle

Thanks, will print that out and check out this stuff.

 

For some reason I like fixing old, junky, rusty cars lol.
What are you working on?

 

BTW, this place has free shipping on por15 and related products:
http://www.prp-porstore.com/