Well after running like crap for a while, I decided to take my car in to get it checked out. I have a burnt exhaust valve in my #2 Cyl.

The head is going to be comming off and I'm thinking about just replacing all the valves at once. I'm really not sure what I should be shopping for.... I need to see how much to budget before I rip things apart. The motor is stock from a 2000 ITR with only 36K on the clock. I'm not doing anything extreme with the motor in the future...... so I just want some decent replacement valves and I need ideas. I'd like this sucker back on the road without it costing a ****-ton. I DONT want to go over a total of $500 for materials and shop labor. I'll be pulling/reinstalling the head myself.

1. What is recommended for replacement valves? Brands would be helpful.

2. What kind of headwork will I need to do? Valve guides? Valve job?

3. What all will I need to replace? I know about the gaskets needing replacing, but what about head bolts and stuff?

Any help would be great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D50boy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well after running like crap for a while, I decided to take my car in to get it checked out. I have a burnt exhaust valve in my #2 Cyl.

The head is going to be comming off and I'm thinking about just replacing all the valves at once. I'm really not sure what I should be shopping for.... I need to see how much to budget before I rip things apart. The motor is stock from a 2000 ITR with only 36K on the clock. I'm not doing anything extreme with the motor in the future...... so I just want some decent replacement valves and I need ideas. I'd like this sucker back on the road without it costing a ****-ton. I DONT want to go over a total of $500 for materials and shop labor. I'll be pulling/reinstalling the head myself.

1. What is recommended for replacement valves? Brands would be helpful.

2. What kind of headwork will I need to do? Valve guides? Valve job?

3. What all will I need to replace? I know about the gaskets needing replacing, but what about head bolts and stuff?

Any help would be great. </TD></TR></TABLE>

holy ****, 36k is awfully low to burn one. Interseting though, the GSR I'm building now came out due to a burnt exhaust valve on #2. i think it was due to a high RPM misshift that nicked it but didn't bend it bad enough to lose all of the seal.

You will have to pull the head to see what you have to have first off. 500.00 is a low budget. Since it's coming off and could use a valve job anyway,you could have one done by Portflow as opposed to a local shop for not that much more. Upgrading to Rocket or Omni springs would be a good choice depending on future cam selection. Your retainers and keepers should be sufficient. I'd say flat faced valves and a set of cams but that would require tuning as well and put you way way above your budget.

The cheapest way to go would be to get that one valve replaced, if the seat isn't damaged, a new head gasket, and in this case if it were mine and I was budgeting I would re-use the head bolts. Everyone says don't but if you are staying with a rock stock build and they aren't high mileage then I have re-used them with no issues.

 

I know... 36k isnt much at all. I'm going to send the injectors to be tested to see if that might have been the problem. I got the car from a H-T member and I'd always remembered it was running a bit rough. I figured a sensor was bad or a wire was messed up during the swap. He drag raced it a few times... probably misshifted it too.

What's wrong with keeping my stock ITR springs?
Are all b-series valves the same size?

Note to self: always do a compression and leakdown test before buying a car.


Modified by D50boy at 11:43 PM 6/1/2005


Modified by D50boy at 11:44 PM 6/1/2005

 

I've been looking at a set of flat head black coated Supertech replacements.

I still need to know if I need to replace both the valve guides and valve seats. Do I have to get the valves cut for the seats or what?

 

Omni has flat bottom valves for $190 for a full set. Get some port flow inner springs if u want to rev Really high but if u dont plan on going over stock rev limit then just keep ur itr stuff.U should probably go ahead and replace the valve seals and if u want, bronze valve guides are about 80 bucks. Get a new headgasket and ur set!

 

Nothing is wrong with your ITR springs...or just the portflow upgrade. My point was, especially if you go with the flat face valves, then you are setting up the compression to be able to utelize a bigger cam. It was just a "while you were in there" suggestion. Not necessary in the stock configuration if you don't plan on upgrading.

 

So it be a waste to get the flat face valves if I'm not going to be upgrading the ITR cams that are in there? I thought bumping the CR would be a benefit....?

I wouldn't want to spend $250 on all 16 valves if it's not going to help.

 

bump.

So would installing only flat face valves bump the power by providing a higher compression ratio if I didnt change anything else?

 

flat face valves are heavy. upgrade springs accordingly.

if u wanna stay allmotor, i strongly suggest milling of the head, and the valves, along with springs (retainers is ur choice) the omni ertainers make a snap fit on the springs, real nice stuff..

also a valve job, nothing too extreme,really, becasue the motor is a mild build.

and then u will be ready in the future for some cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D50boy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know... 36k isnt much at all. I'm going to send the injectors to be tested to see if that might have been the problem. I got the car from a H-T member and I'd always remembered it was running a bit rough. I figured a sensor was bad or a wire was messed up during the swap. He drag raced it a few times... probably misshifted it too.

What's wrong with keeping my stock ITR springs?
Are all b-series valves the same size?

Note to self: always do a compression and leakdown test before buying a car.


Modified by D50boy at 11:43 PM 6/1/2005


Modified by D50boy at 11:44 PM 6/1/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

I highly doubt the injector is the problem. One of the most common ways to burn a valve is incorrect valve clearances.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I highly doubt the injector is the problem. One of the most common ways to burn a valve is incorrect valve clearances.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you mean valve lash. Too tight and the valve will never touch the seat and transfer heat to the head, thus becoming overly hot and eventually crispy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

eventually crispy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lol sounds tasty

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reddohcvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lol sounds tasty</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tastes like crap in reality


My budget is telling me I should just buy stock valves and get the F'ker repaired.

 

Stock valves for ITR are $$$ I looked into that already. If you can get them in singles, which I am pretty sure you cant, then that would be the way to stay in budget. I would say to just get the omni valves (cheaper then supertech, still flat faced, and quite similar to ITR in design and weight) new head gasket, possibly guides, and head work. If the budget is just for the unknown parts you are asking about, then you could probably get a port job too. The springs and stuff can be done later with the head still on and when money allows. Make sure you think about what you buy before you end up in a double job to do something internally that could have been taken care of earlier. Good luck.

 

When using new valves, you ALWAYS replace the valve guides, Because the guides tend to mold to the old valves and such..

For example, if you use your stock valves the head porter would keep the valves with the corresponding guide...

As for bronze valve guides, yea they are nice, but they wear out too fast for normal driving..

These are more for race apps..

New valve seals, 3angle valve job, valves and guides...

I am using the supertech nitride coated race valves in my n/a gsr build. They have nothing but good props...

new headgasket too.. you can reuse the stock bolts , just next time get some new ones!