To charge or not to Charge
Alright sick of people looking at me like an idiot when I start my car.
The Alt. belt slips til warm then stops, but the output from the factory 80amp alt is not enough to deal with my subs (only 600watt but it makes the lights flicker when it hits)
I tried a new alt. but same thing.
So here is my Q?
What other model alt. will work in this 1991 Honda Accord with a 1992 Accord EX-R F22A6.
Oh and I have adjusted the belt and replaced it twice now. Still same issue.
Would like to know if one of the V6 120amp alt. will work or what other options I have for a higher out put alt.
Thanks
The Alt. belt slips til warm then stops, but the output from the factory 80amp alt is not enough to deal with my subs (only 600watt but it makes the lights flicker when it hits)
I tried a new alt. but same thing.
So here is my Q?
What other model alt. will work in this 1991 Honda Accord with a 1992 Accord EX-R F22A6.
Oh and I have adjusted the belt and replaced it twice now. Still same issue.
Would like to know if one of the V6 120amp alt. will work or what other options I have for a higher out put alt.
Thanks
I can't answer your question about capatible alternators, but...
Although most audiophiles will say that capacitors are useless/pointless/general waste of money, it stopped the lights from flickering on my car. My subs also had a cleaner sound when at loud volumes... Just something else to consider.
Although most audiophiles will say that capacitors are useless/pointless/general waste of money, it stopped the lights from flickering on my car. My subs also had a cleaner sound when at loud volumes... Just something else to consider.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philadd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't answer your question about capatible alternators, but...
Although most audiophiles will say that capacitors are useless/pointless/general waste of money, it stopped the lights from flickering on my car. My subs also had a cleaner sound when at loud volumes... Just something else to consider.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hrmm, i never heard any audiophiles say caps r pointless -__-a
Although most audiophiles will say that capacitors are useless/pointless/general waste of money, it stopped the lights from flickering on my car. My subs also had a cleaner sound when at loud volumes... Just something else to consider.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hrmm, i never heard any audiophiles say caps r pointless -__-a
Not to rebut your point but a lot of friends of mine who have been in the audio business have strictly told me not to use caps. Which is the reason why i have this brand new one sitting right in my room. Contact a gentleman on here named Loaded Butane and tell him that you spoke to me about it and I told you this.
He used to work on competition systems and is now hobbling around with a broken fibula (besides the point), and has a good history of and knowledge of nearly all car audio specs.
He used to work on competition systems and is now hobbling around with a broken fibula (besides the point), and has a good history of and knowledge of nearly all car audio specs.
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the squealing is a belt tension problem. either the tracks on the belt are worn and doesn't grip anymore or the belt is still loose. buy a $10 new belt and adjust the tension properly and i'm sure your noise problem will go away.
as for the power output, you could use the 94 accord EX alternator. The one i got from advance auto parts was rated at 115 amps (had testing chart attached) and it worked great in my 3G prelude. All I had to do was swap the pullies, but I don't think you'll have to do that on the accord. worth a shot...
as for the power output, you could use the 94 accord EX alternator. The one i got from advance auto parts was rated at 115 amps (had testing chart attached) and it worked great in my 3G prelude. All I had to do was swap the pullies, but I don't think you'll have to do that on the accord. worth a shot...
i don't think so. what is your stock alt rated at?
I just used the 94 because it was what advance auto parts had in stock and it fit my prelude. with a rating of 115 verified amps, i didn't complain
I just used the 94 because it was what advance auto parts had in stock and it fit my prelude. with a rating of 115 verified amps, i didn't complain
Well for one need to check the overload protection wires. If they are burnt or show signs of decay then replace the ends and most of the wire (about one foot from connections)
Secondly, on the belt guess you did not read right. As I have replaced the belt several times with a new factory belt and the same issues is still there.
Replaced the bolt to tighten it twice with a grade 8 replacement M8 1.25 pitch 5 inch long, so the threads are not the issue.
I have even replaced the alt. with a factory replacement 80 amp alt. Guess I will try the 94 EX 115 amp and see if that makes a change. As I really dont want to drop in a 150amp one if not need to spend that type of money. They go for $385 for 150amp alt.
Secondly, on the belt guess you did not read right. As I have replaced the belt several times with a new factory belt and the same issues is still there.
Replaced the bolt to tighten it twice with a grade 8 replacement M8 1.25 pitch 5 inch long, so the threads are not the issue.
I have even replaced the alt. with a factory replacement 80 amp alt. Guess I will try the 94 EX 115 amp and see if that makes a change. As I really dont want to drop in a 150amp one if not need to spend that type of money. They go for $385 for 150amp alt.
Old topic but here was the results:
Alt bracket was bent. There was also a crack in it.
Replaced it and noise went away.
Swapped to the 94 alt at 115amp works better at keeping the system charged up
Alt bracket was bent. There was also a crack in it.
Replaced it and noise went away.
Swapped to the 94 alt at 115amp works better at keeping the system charged up
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