Downsides to Z10 Radius Arms?
I have a 94 GSR Sedan.
I really hate wheel hop. I feel it really hampers the high speed handling and launch of the GSR.
My 87 accord did not wheel hop...
I did a search on the Z10 Radius arms and could not find any real in depth review of them.
Can these do any damage? Any install tips?
Anybody else making these for Integras?
Do I need a different one than the hatchback?
Would I be better off spending money on something else like spring/shocks?
Thanks for any help
I really hate wheel hop. I feel it really hampers the high speed handling and launch of the GSR.
My 87 accord did not wheel hop...
I did a search on the Z10 Radius arms and could not find any real in depth review of them.
Can these do any damage? Any install tips?
Anybody else making these for Integras?
Do I need a different one than the hatchback?
Would I be better off spending money on something else like spring/shocks?
Thanks for any help
Several companies make these. Moroso is one of them (under the Competition Engineering brand).
The concept makes sense, but I have no personal experience with them.
The concept makes sense, but I have no personal experience with them.
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
This is my understanding of the radius rods:
Hondas/Acuras (at least 92-01 vintage) have double A arm suspensions which have soft rubber bushings where the connect to the chassis. They also have soft engine mounts. So, when you launch the car hard, you get to problems a) the engine torques back and forth causing a "hop" sensation. And b) those soft rubber suspension bushings twist back and forth, also resulting in a "hop".
The cure to the engine problem is stiffer engine mounts. Energy Suspension and Prothane both make insert kits. Running the full kit usually makes the car vibrate, so many poeple install only one or two mounts (I think there are three).
To cure the suspension problem, you need to limit the play in the control arms. One method is to install stiffer bushings, again made of polyurethane or similar by Energy Suspension or Prothane. Another solution is to install radius rods, which basically make a solid link from the control arm to the front of the unibody.
I'm not sure what benefit radius rods would have over a good stiff bushing. And the bushing should be cheaper and weighs less and doesn't add any more compexity to the suspension. If you really want to get serious, forget about bushings altogether and use a bearing (but that would require some fabbing on your part).
Hondas/Acuras (at least 92-01 vintage) have double A arm suspensions which have soft rubber bushings where the connect to the chassis. They also have soft engine mounts. So, when you launch the car hard, you get to problems a) the engine torques back and forth causing a "hop" sensation. And b) those soft rubber suspension bushings twist back and forth, also resulting in a "hop".
The cure to the engine problem is stiffer engine mounts. Energy Suspension and Prothane both make insert kits. Running the full kit usually makes the car vibrate, so many poeple install only one or two mounts (I think there are three).
To cure the suspension problem, you need to limit the play in the control arms. One method is to install stiffer bushings, again made of polyurethane or similar by Energy Suspension or Prothane. Another solution is to install radius rods, which basically make a solid link from the control arm to the front of the unibody.
I'm not sure what benefit radius rods would have over a good stiff bushing. And the bushing should be cheaper and weighs less and doesn't add any more compexity to the suspension. If you really want to get serious, forget about bushings altogether and use a bearing (but that would require some fabbing on your part).
Get them
Just get them
Don't ask for the opinions of people who don't have them
Just get them
I did
I'm so in love with them
Those Competition engineering ones are crap, can't turn the car with those.
Don't think, don't debate, just call and get them.
Trust me, they are worth *every* penny . . .
[edit: no I don't work for z10, I just love the product. Also, zero install problems, zero negative side effects. Only thing is you remove your splash shield. but who cares, it's worth it . . .]
[Another edit: I have ES poly suspension bushings AND ES poly engine mount inserts. Those did 10% of what the z10 bars do. They are *not* an acceptable replacement for the z10 bars]
Jeff
[Modified by jeff652, 8:18 AM 2/8/2002]
Just get them
Don't ask for the opinions of people who don't have them
Just get them
I did
I'm so in love with them
Those Competition engineering ones are crap, can't turn the car with those.
Don't think, don't debate, just call and get them.
Trust me, they are worth *every* penny . . .
[edit: no I don't work for z10, I just love the product. Also, zero install problems, zero negative side effects. Only thing is you remove your splash shield. but who cares, it's worth it . . .]
[Another edit: I have ES poly suspension bushings AND ES poly engine mount inserts. Those did 10% of what the z10 bars do. They are *not* an acceptable replacement for the z10 bars]
Jeff
[Modified by jeff652, 8:18 AM 2/8/2002]
Get them
Just get them
Don't ask for the opinions of people who don't have them
Just get them
I did
I'm so in love with them
Those Competition engineering ones are crap, can't turn the car with those.
Don't think, don't debate, just call and get them.
Trust me, they are worth *every* penny . . .
Just get them
Don't ask for the opinions of people who don't have them
Just get them
I did
I'm so in love with them
Those Competition engineering ones are crap, can't turn the car with those.
Don't think, don't debate, just call and get them.
Trust me, they are worth *every* penny . . .
Welcome to the poetry corner...
Yeah but those will most likely kick me out of Street Prepared in auto-x.
Removing the splash guard can be a bad thing. It provides some protection for our CAIs. I have no doubt they work great but I wouldn't feel too safe driving in the rain without the splash guard at the bottom..
Get some adjustable shocks and stiffen them up a bit (along with aftermarket springs or coilovers). They reduced a lot of my wheel hop, not totally of course but noticeably reduced it.
Removing the splash guard can be a bad thing. It provides some protection for our CAIs. I have no doubt they work great but I wouldn't feel too safe driving in the rain without the splash guard at the bottom..
Get some adjustable shocks and stiffen them up a bit (along with aftermarket springs or coilovers). They reduced a lot of my wheel hop, not totally of course but noticeably reduced it.
Trending Topics
Get these save weight over the Z-10 arms, stay legal, less expensive, keep your splashguards, factory radius rods and support someone who backs amateur road racing in North America.
http://www.opmmotorsports.com/honda12a.html
http://www.opmmotorsports.com/honda17.html
[Modified by DB1-R81, 11:20 PM 2/8/2002]
http://www.opmmotorsports.com/honda12a.html
http://www.opmmotorsports.com/honda17.html
[Modified by DB1-R81, 11:20 PM 2/8/2002]
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