Gosh..! which mark on flywheel for timing light?
93ludevtec; try adjusting my timing on the flywheel with the timing lights and there are 2 digits mark (cant rememebr what number it was) and + mark. with your help, which one is it to line up with while engine is on?
Beside, I loosed those three 12mm bolts and try to move it back and forth to retard and advance and that + mark will not get any closer to the pointer, about an inch away from the pointer and that's the max (which means i can no longer turn it). I was thinking did i not align perfect when i put on a new timing belt.. any help would be appreicated..thanks
Beside, I loosed those three 12mm bolts and try to move it back and forth to retard and advance and that + mark will not get any closer to the pointer, about an inch away from the pointer and that's the max (which means i can no longer turn it). I was thinking did i not align perfect when i put on a new timing belt.. any help would be appreicated..thanks
the plus mark of mine isn't white though. But as long it's a plus sign then it's tdc right? What does it mean if the plus mark couldnt get to the pointer?
did you also jump the service connector? you won't be able to get the correct timing (because the ecu will compensate) unless you have the service connector jumped.
besides you don't want TDC at the pointer - that would be six ways of bad. you want the 15 degrees +/- 2 degrees to be at the pointer (red markings) - that way you know you're sparking BTDC (before tdc) so that you have proper flame propagation - so that the peak of combustion occurs right at TDC before the cylinder moves downwads. you should be glad your advancing/retarding didn't allow you to reach that mark.
besides you don't want TDC at the pointer - that would be six ways of bad. you want the 15 degrees +/- 2 degrees to be at the pointer (red markings) - that way you know you're sparking BTDC (before tdc) so that you have proper flame propagation - so that the peak of combustion occurs right at TDC before the cylinder moves downwads. you should be glad your advancing/retarding didn't allow you to reach that mark.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Altilude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you also jump the service connector? you won't be able to get the correct timing (because the ecu will compensate)</TD></TR></TABLE>
service connector? i have no idea what is it. give me a better brief explantion on that would be helpful..thanks
service connector? i have no idea what is it. give me a better brief explantion on that would be helpful..thanks
like the connector you use to pull obd1 diagnostic codes (you know the flashing check engine light)... it's a lil blue (? if i remember correctly) connector tucked in the center console - accessed from the driver side - jump it with a paperclip - lil speaker wire, or my fav the audio U connector that goes under screw heads but isn't a complete circle - anyhoo you get the point - the service connector has to be jumped - otherwise every timing move you make will be recompensated for by your ecu because it will think something is wack with your timing.
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that is correct sir
and there's no point adjusting it - if your idle isn't set correctly too... jah. - off the top of my head i think the helms specifies 15 deg +/- 2 degrees at 750 rpm.
so if your idle isn't giving you 750 when you set it - your timing will be minorly off.
indeed.
and there's no point adjusting it - if your idle isn't set correctly too... jah. - off the top of my head i think the helms specifies 15 deg +/- 2 degrees at 750 rpm.
so if your idle isn't giving you 750 when you set it - your timing will be minorly off.
indeed.
yea just checked in helms it's 700 +/- 50 rpm when you set timing. so i think that's all the info you need (;
start car.
jump service connector.
when car warm - idling 700 +/-50 rpm
aim light at flywheel, get the 15 +/-2 deg mark to line up, by advancing or retarding distributor - then bolt the distributor tight - check it again!, and then you're set. replug hole, unplug service connector. etc.
best of luck
start car.
jump service connector.
when car warm - idling 700 +/-50 rpm
aim light at flywheel, get the 15 +/-2 deg mark to line up, by advancing or retarding distributor - then bolt the distributor tight - check it again!, and then you're set. replug hole, unplug service connector. etc.
best of luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Altilude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when car warm - idling 700 +/-50 rpm
aim light at flywheel, get the 15 +/-2 deg mark to line up, by advancing or retarding distributor</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm sorry i didn't quite understand that part 15 +/-2 deg. line up which mark again? Right now my idle sits @ 600rpm but sometimes went i drive it for awhile and at the stop lights it would stay @ 900rpm. would u know what's going on? thanks man..
aim light at flywheel, get the 15 +/-2 deg mark to line up, by advancing or retarding distributor</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm sorry i didn't quite understand that part 15 +/-2 deg. line up which mark again? Right now my idle sits @ 600rpm but sometimes went i drive it for awhile and at the stop lights it would stay @ 900rpm. would u know what's going on? thanks man..
this morning i try putting on the U pin on the connector and did the timing. I lined the plus mark close to the pointer but it was a little upper from the pointer but i notice when i test drive it, it'll lag a little when i full throttle at low rpm. usaully it'll pick up right at low rpm when i gas it all the way.. is this suppose to be normal for a honda factory setting?
i thought you confirmed with other buddy up above ^ that your plus mark was TDC. (i can't confirm this for sure because i'm not going out to my car in the windy cold, and the helms picture is tiny.. but in any case - it should be a white mark for TDC) I then told you NOT to align it to TDC. trust me - you don't want your sparkplugs to spark when the cylinder is at the top of it's travel. that's called really retarded timing (heh in more ways than one) - but seriously as in retarded/late. your sparkin too late man. you want your spark plugs to fire at 15 degrees before TDC - this should be a red marking. you don't want it to fire too much in advance or too much retarded beyond 15 (that's where you're gonna get powerloss). that's why they give you the range - +/- 2. if you ARE actually trying to get the 15 degree mark +/- 2 - but can't achieve it thru advancing/retarding the distributor - you have OTHER issues, most likely you skipped a tooth on your cam gears or something. I doubt you can reach TDC (because your car would run like **** if you could) by advancing/retarding the dizzy - and that's prob your issue - but i can't tell for sure over the internuts.
your explanation is not normal of a honda factory setting, is normal for a poorly tuned bogging/hesitating car. - you should have smooth powerband and it should giddy up whenever you step on it (gear depending of course).
best of luck with this man. i hope my explanations are somewhat clear? atleast you're not afraid to fiddle - that's a great start - if you think you have the timing correct - your issues obviously lye elsewhere, and there's lots of good info avail on this board (in this thread too).
i think the 15 deg +/- 2 marking should look like this (but i'm not 100 percent)
---
-----
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wher'as the center would be 15 and those lil ticks would be the +/- part. BOL.
your explanation is not normal of a honda factory setting, is normal for a poorly tuned bogging/hesitating car. - you should have smooth powerband and it should giddy up whenever you step on it (gear depending of course).
best of luck with this man. i hope my explanations are somewhat clear? atleast you're not afraid to fiddle - that's a great start - if you think you have the timing correct - your issues obviously lye elsewhere, and there's lots of good info avail on this board (in this thread too).
i think the 15 deg +/- 2 marking should look like this (but i'm not 100 percent)
---
-----
---
wher'as the center would be 15 and those lil ticks would be the +/- part. BOL.
ok now i think i quite did my timing a little better. (how did i know???).. well i test race with my little brother's 96 GSR. I always test race with him just to see if i did any improvement. He had cat-back exhaust and intake..and i had just an intake and we usually pace the same. He'll burn me just a hood away. Now i've set the timing a little off from the 3 mark which advanced a little forward and i test race him again twice and i took him a car lane away. now that's a different.. i think i'll just leave it alone for now
although i don't support your street racing, i'm glad it finally worked out for ya
hopefully your gas mileage will be better too.
hopefully your gas mileage will be better too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prelude951 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so u mean put that U pin jumped on the connector then do the timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
check this video....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJRk7FmiyqU
check this video....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJRk7FmiyqU
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