ok, so the car was FINALLY dynoed yesterday on a Dynojet dynomometer and we tuned in a nice linear power band, air/fuel is right and so on

the car is 100% tuned on WOT

but we are having problems tuning the partial throttle and idle

the car bucks a lot and is very spastic still

my tuner recommended we start by replacing the spark plugs with new colder plugs

my dad thinks it is because we removed the JR fuel pressure regulator, but my tuner doesnt believe its that

my tuner is Jon D at TDC tuning

so dyno results were this

260 WHP at 8.5 PSI @ 8500 and still making power past 8500, but we stopped
190 WTQ or so
ill post sheet later

so now im looking for spark plugs, but everywhere i look doesnt have a damn clue about anything

on NGK's website it says that the higher the number the colder the plug

it says our cars come stock with platinum number 7's
so im assuming to use a number 9 for my setup???
im slightly confused

we are having a tough time finding out why the car wont idle right and why it runs so shitty if your not at WOT

i was very pleased with the dyno results, but im going nuts over this issue

im using a p28 ECU with Uberdata, 440cc injectors, stock internals

help!

 

Where is the map sensor connected? is it still on the TB?

You must make sure that the map sensor is hooked up to a port on the intake manifold in order for it to see any positive manifold pressure. This could be one of your problems. Going with a colder plug is a very good idea, but it shouldn't drastically change the way the motor behaves. Colder plugs help prevent detonation.

 

good lord those are awesome numbers. how much boost?

 

Ngk bkr7e is the plug most commonly used for boosted honda's on this board.

I don't see how going with a colder plug will help idle and part throttle. What is your part throttle a/f like? Does the blower give the same boost at the same rpm regardless of throttle position? I'm not sure how superchargers work at part throttle.

 

As was said above, the NGK bkr7e or bkr7e-11 is the plug to use. I think they are supposed to be gapped to around .35-.38. They were kind of a pain in the *** for me to find...I eventually ended up ordering a set from sparkplugs.com. I'm running a similiar setup to yours, but holy crap you are making a lot more power than me. I'd be interested to know about some of your other mods. I'm only making 220whp and 155 tq at the moment, and I'm not sure why it's so low. What A/F did you tune to? You might want to try backing off the timing some at low RPMs, as my setup was knocking pretty badly under 4k until I did that. I'm not sure how Uberdata works, as I'm running a Hondata, so I can't help you much there. Maybe it's still adding 8.5psi worth of fuel at part throttle? To answer Dr. Pooface, the blower will give less boost with less throttle.

 

for the NGK plug go to Advance Auto and order part # 6097. It's our part # for the BKR7E.

 

the map sensor IS still on the throttle body

in terms of spark plugs, ill have to order those off the web or something, cause i cant find them anywhere

still not sure why the car is being so weird and why it is stalling so much

i didnt think it was this hard to tune this car, but maybe im wrong, ergh

 

trust me, if theres and advance store local to you go there and order the part# above, you'll have it next day!

 

just ordered them off sparkplugs.com

thanks

ill let you know how it goes

and we will be doing more dyno tuning soon

 

I might suggest running NGK-4554 which is their #8 Heat Range Race Plug.

 

possible to post your dyno sheet?

how are you achieving 8.5 psi

very nice #'s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the map sensor IS still on the throttle body</TD></TR></TABLE>

What bitzbp was getting at is your map sensor should have vacuum hose running directly to the intake manifold, "downstream" of your blower. It needs to read boost to work properly, and it can't read boost when it's sitting on the throttle body "upstream" of your blower.

 

I am actually having the same problem with a JRSC setup with a hondata. In my case, it's running way too rich at idle. As for a few other things:

As said before, the MAP sensor must be hooked up to the intake manifold. Jackson Racing sells a little plate that you put between the TB and map sensor that has a nipple on it.
It DOES NOT come with any instructions, so here they are: Screw the plate between the TB and map sensor. Then remove the pressure switch attached to the intake manifold. Disconnect the ground that goes from the pressure switch to relay box, and cut the red & black wires. Take the two ends of the red and black wire that went to the relay box and crimp/solder them. Disconnect the purge solenoid. Install a second nipple where the pressure switch was located. Connect the two with some hose, and your map sensor will actually read boost.

Also, the JR FMU is just a band-aid. Once you have standalone engine management, and larger injectors-- ditch it. It is no longer needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azcheron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 260 WHP at 8.5 PSI @ 8500 and still making power past 8500, but we stopped190 WTQ or soill post sheet later
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those numbers are absurdly high. Please post a dyno chart.

 

the bkr7e-11's are gapped at .044