Is it worth the trouble to convert my obd 0 ls/vtec to obd 1? I have had this swap in my 91 Integra w/ the stock JDM b16 ecu, but have had vtec problems... I am swapping the motor into a 91 SI hatch and am wondering if its worth the effort (looking for a chipped OBD 1 ECU and obd 1 dizzy as well as the $190 for the conversion harness vs $55 for the obd 0 vtec sub harness... )Im on a tight budget, but want to get it running strong/ problum free. the mounts and shift linkage are costing me $350 plus I need a new clutch... should I convert now? later? or not at all?
Thanks
Hank

 

deffinatly worth it, every obd0 car i have, which is 3 are all obd1, after you do enough of the harnesses it turns into an art. But deffinatly worth it, runs hella better.

 

I would definately go OBD1. My CRX runs much better.
http://www.rywire.com
but you know that already

 

definitely go OBD1 if you have the chance

 

so this is all u need to go obd 1

http://www.rywire.com/sitob161.shtml

 

OBD-1 on my 3 EF cars

 

thanks all. I guess I will just bite the bullet and do it right.
Thanks all for the input.
Hank
anyone have a b series obd 1 dizzy they want to trade for a good 1000K obd 0 one? LOL

 

i went obd1 w. my b17 swap.....wouldnt have it any other way if i swap another EF

 

I'm not gonna jump on the obd1 hype bandwagon.
Yes, I've gone obd1 myself. Yes, I think my cars ran a little smoother on my stock motor. But No, it's not worth the ~$250 in parts if you do it right.

Now, when you need tuning, it's not even a contest. I'd go obd1 in a heartbeat. But on a stock motor daily driver. No...don't bother. Spend that $ on fuel and drive some more instead.

 

like I said, I have had VTEC prblems (no vtec ). I have re-wired 3 times already. I may have some mechanical issues that might be the real issue (bad VTEC screen/ gasket...) but it might just be a bad obd 0 ecu. If thats the case I'll definatly switch. (I'd have to buy another questionable obd 0 Ecu so..)
Thanks again for the info.
Keep the thoughts coming...
Hank

 

Get (borrow) a multimeter, and physically trace the wires to the vtec solenoid. That eliminates that issue.
Borrow any PW0/PR3 to test.
If it works fine, it's the solenoid.

If it turns out it is the ECU, I can ship you an european PW0 ecu rigged for the B16A1 engine. And I can guarantee it'll be a lot cheaper than converting. Plus it's alot less work.

 

cool,
Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But deffinatly worth it, runs hella better.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see how switching to obd1 makes a car run any better, maybe it was running like **** to began with.

I am running obd0 right now, car runs great no problems at all.

If your gonna go turbo or anything else where your gonna need to really tune it, your gonna have to switch to obd1 because right now there are really no programs besides BRE that supports obd0

 

FYI, Nikozai's car never really pulled past 6,700rpm with a pwo ecu(manual). After we added the p28 (with program) It made power to around 8,000. I think thats a big improvement, so the 0bd1 swap was worth it in my eyes.
Ryan

 

...go OBD1 if you can afford it.

From what I hear (from practically everyone), OBD runs better, is more tuneable, and the distributors aren't shitty like the OBD0 ones.

 

Dizzy's are just as bad, they're just newer. The age problems WILL come.

Only think I noticed, is that the car idles a little better, and according to my datalogger, it seems the obd1 ecu's correct the fuel a little quicker.

 

After I did my OBD conversion, the car felt like it had more power. Also ran smoother.