I am planning on refreshing my GSR motor for daily driving but want to "pep" it up a bit. I was planning on running a compression ratio of about 10.8:1 to 11.0:1 via USDM R pistons. My cam choice would be the typical ITR bumpsticks. I guess its just your basic "peppy" B18C to get me by for now.

My main question is, with this mild compression bump and the usual bolt ons(compared to most of the people running all motor hondas) will I really need a Hondata or some elaborate fuel management?

The car will be an occasional autox car but mainly for driving to/from work and school.

Thanks for the input.

 

anyone?

 

I'd like to know also

 

bump

 

You should atleast invest into a chipped ecu which will enable you to have a basemap on the ecu for your specific setup. If you decide in the future that you want to tune the vehicle using crome, uberdata, hondata etc. You will already have the chipped ecu needed to use any of these systems.

Check out phearable.net

 

sounds good man! thanks for the help. Anyone else have some light they can shed on the subject?

 

You can just drive it with stock ecu. It will work fine. It will not extract all the power available, but it will be way nicer than your stock setup...

Have fun, and put 7 heat range plugs...

Nino

 

11:1 would be a tad lean I think with the GSR IM setup at FT on the OEM P72. It will run fine but I would see it leaning out a bit and loosing HP in the long run. I say chip the ECU and get the most for y our $

 

I see...

Would a piggy back setup like a VAFC or Fields controller work all the same? Im not really looking for ALL OUT Hp since it will be the daily driver for a while. Just something that will be safe enough to take it up high when I need it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should atleast invest into a chipped ecu which will enable you to have a basemap on the ecu for your specific setup. If you decide in the future that you want to tune the vehicle using crome, uberdata, hondata etc. You will already have the chipped ecu needed to use any of these systems.

Check out phearable.net

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOEY F. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I see...

Would a piggy back setup like a VAFC or Fields controller work all the same? Im not really looking for ALL OUT Hp since it will be the daily driver for a while. Just something that will be safe enough to take it up high when I need it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Piggy backs suck for many reasons.
From the wiki:
Piggy Back controllers allow stock ECUs to do things that they normally can't do, like run larger injectors or deal with boost. Remember that piggyback controllers work by altering sensor signals before they get to the ECU.

Most of the time, the primary signal being messed with is the Map Sensor. This is critically important in a Speed Density car. The Map Sensor is used by the ECU to guess how much air is going into the car, and therefore how much fuel to supply in order to match airflow. When you "lean" out a car with an AFC, you are simply decreasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the decrease in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel. When you "richen" a car with an AFC, you are simply increasing the Map Sensor signal - the ECU responds to the increase in manifold pressure by supplying less fuel.

The change in fueling happens for a reason: if you look at a fuel table, Map Sensor values correspond with columns. When you increase or decrease the signal from the Map Sensor, you are simply making the ECU use a different column than it originally would have used. (see Understanding Maps if you need some help understanding reading Fuel and Ign tables)

But wait, isn't the Map Sensor used for determining ignition requirements too? When you "lean" out a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood advanced timing. When you "richen" a car with a Piggy Back, you also in all likelyhood retarded timing. Look at trends horizontally (as MAP changes) in an ignition table, and you will see why this happens. This helps explain why so many boosted cars running on the "AFC hack" have issues due to excessive ignition advance.

The bottom line: Piggy Back Controllers suck because you cannot independently adjust fuel and ignition. Any changes to fueling will produce a change in ignition too, and often this is undesirable.