Alright I got a 94 honda prelude with the stock H22. I plan on doing a decent NA build of the motor sometime soon. I plan on doing the usual, replacing the camshafts, valvetrain, IM and so forth. I'll probaly use some of the new OBX parts for the shafts, and IM. YES I KNOW THEY ARE "****" but whatever someone has to be the ginuea pig cuz I know all of you are wondering if these parts actually yeild decent gains and are reliable. Anyway I would also like to bump up my compression. I believe my compression stock is like 10.0:1 correct? Well I plan on not sleeving the block so my only option piston wise are the Type S correct? That will raise my compression to 11.0:1 right? Well I would still like to get it a little bit higher. In the 11.5:1 range or so, maybe even a low 12. I do plan on only using pump gas, but i'm confident with hondata and a decent tune I can get it to run on 93 octane. So is there anyway to raise my compression besides Type-S pistons? I heard something about getting a thinner head gasket, or getting oversized valves. But then I would be concerned about valve clearance. Any input is welcome.

Thanks!

 

Flat valves, not oversized valves, will bump up your compression .3 (ie 11:1 becomes 11.3:1). If you are going to run the stage 2 OBX/Skunk2 it's smart to stay away from oversized valves.

 

its smart to stay away from Oversized period.

the OBX shafts have already been proven to make pretty good power. Matx made 209whp i believe with the stage 1 shaft, prospeed header, vafc, and some other bolt ons.

You can always shave the head but then you may run into problem when you want to build the bottom end with high compression pistons.

 

What brand do you guys recommend for the flat valves?

 

Just about any brand that makes flat valves should be good quality. I'm running Supertech Black coated flat valves, Skunk 2 does the same thing.

 

Im running JUN cams in H22, would flat valves have enough clearance with the cams? Also planning to install Type S pistons and Spoon head gasket. Would this combo work together?

 

If you buy the obx camshafts you cannot run stiffer springs with them. The camshaft is harder then the rockers and will cause rocker wear. I ran the stage 1 cams on stock valvetrain and havnt noticed any rocker wear. The people that had stiffer springs show rocker wear. Checkout this thread good info about the cams https://honda-tech.com/zero...ge=15
I just went all crower bc I wanna be able to rev the motor to 8k.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VSBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im running JUN cams in H22, would flat valves have enough clearance with the cams? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Flat just means the face of the valve is flat, not dished. It doesn't hamper clearance with anything, it certainly wouldn't interfere with your cams in any way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you buy the obx camshafts you cannot run stiffer springs with them. The camshaft is harder then the rockers and will cause rocker wear. I ran the stage 1 cams on stock valvetrain and havnt noticed any rocker wear. The people that had stiffer springs show rocker wear. Checkout this thread good info about the cams https://honda-tech.com/zero...ge=15
I just went all crower bc I wanna be able to rev the motor to 8k.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What about if I run Stage 2 OBX cams. Isn't a valvetrain upgrade recommended then?

 

Do some reading on OBX cams, not powerwise but reliability issue.
Personally I would not recommend them.

 

Well with everyone talking about Crower breaking, and Skunk2's breaking i rather be able to buy 2 sets of the same product ya know? Most of these issues with camshafts breaking are due to poor installation anyway I always thought.

 

There is no way to run the stage2's unless obx decides to release some rockers that are made out of the same material of the cams.Everyone that ran the stage 2 had there rocker arms wear with in 500 miles. I would just get a set of crower stage2s they are on sale for 500.00. I picked a set up on ebay for 400.00 new.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no way to run the stage2's unless obx decides to release some rockers that are made out of the same material of the cams.Everyone that ran the stage 2 had there rocker arms wear with in 500 miles. I would just get a set of crower stage2s they are on sale for 500.00. I picked a set up on ebay for 400.00 new.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really, I did not hear such smack about OBX stage 2 cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94Vtecluder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really, I did not hear such smack about OBX stage 2 cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the last 3 pages of the obx camshaft thread there are pics.

 

What the F are they made out of and why such a hard material?

Durrability?

 

So are their anymore options I could look into about raising my compression. Type S pistions are a definite. So If I use flat valves instead of dished valves I wouldn't have any clearance issues as someone said? Even with stage 2 cams? Also what about a thinner headgasket?

 

There are no clearance issues with flat valves.
Thinner head gaskets are an okay way of bumping up the compression and cost about the same as std. head gaskets.
Another way to bump up the compression is welding the chambers. However, if this is a street car on 91 octane: Type S pistons, Flat Valves, and a thinner head gasket are going to put you on the edge of streetability.

 

I am using Crower Stage 3's, so far no prob whatsoever. And the new Crower's are a better and stronger design then the old ones, so they are less likely to break, though I bet it was a lot of screwed up installs that caused problems with them.
Dan