How many ft/lbs should i torque my head down with. its going to be a b18c1 witha cometic head gasket and arp head studs. also what is the torque sequence? sorry i've never had to replace a head before on a honda so i'm not sure what the specs are for it.

 

70 ft pounds with ARP assy lube.

 

are you saying with arps assembly lube? and what is the torque sequence? and do i torque them 70ft lbs right off the bat or do i step it up like 30, 50, 70?

 

I believe its 30, 50 then 72.

 

and what is the torquing sequence

 

I've always used this without a problem:
7 5 1 3 9
10 4 2 6 8

Somone will probably quote the Helms which I believe is slightly different, either way.

 

My arps called for 80 ft lbs in my b16

 

same with my gsr

 

start torquing from the inside of the head out. all to 30 or whatever, then 50, then 70 or 80. inside out. I have had to replace so many head gaskets for friends who had "mechanic" do the head install but didn't torque it right. its not rocket science. start from the inside and cross back and forth. like ITRXXXX said. start at 1 then move to 2 then 3 then 4 and so on.
easy, not even super crucial if u do it
9 3 1 5 7
8 4 2 6 10

just make sure they all hit the same ftlb in the end. then wait a while and recheck.

 

yes thats the sequence right there. make sure your last step is the largest, so i recommend 25 - 50 - 80 ftlbs. moly lube on the threads where the nut goes on. i think they are best installed into the block with regular engine oil to about 10 ftlbs. i used to have a good amount of headgasket issues until i started installing them like this. havent lost one since and its been a few years now

 

Same here.

 

Yea what everyone else said basically. Its 80ftlb with moly lube or 85ftlb with 30wt motor oil. Torque from the inside of the head to the outside or any of the sequences listed above and you will be fine. Btw you can print instructions off of arp's website and helms manuals are available for download online free. That would of given you all the info you needed

 

i went to 83flb myself on golden eagle head bolts

 

i also found this a while ago and it helps me out from time to time


https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/faq-b-series-torque-specs-953151/

 

I know you are using arp's but the repeated torquing to 50lbs for accuracy might make sense for you also.

These are golden eagle's instructions fwiw

1st step, torque the nuts to 25 ft. lbs.
2nd step, torque the nuts to 50 ft. lbs.
While still going in the factory torque sequence, loosen each nut one at a time ½
turn then torque back to 50 ft. lbs. Repeat this step three ( 3 ) times. This will mate
the threads and give more accurate torque reading upon final torque.
Last step, torque to 72 ft. lbs.

I blew 2 cometic hg's using arps, now on golden eagles oem hg and studs and all is well finally.

 

^^^ Did you ever heat cycle the engine appropiately and retorque the ARPs? I have NEVER lost a headgasket with ARP's on my imports or domestics alike, be it my circle track engines or daily drivers. Given, it's a major PITA on a Honda, but on a SBC it's easy as pie.

Everything I have seen from "Golden Eagle" seems to be inferior quality. Personally, I wouldn't run anything they make, but to each his own. Also, that "conditioning" they want you to do to their head studs is close to the same process as setting rod bolts... Hmmmm.

 

Never heat cycled and retorqued the arp's. That step is news to me. I have very large hands and I hate timing belt work on an installed b series