Please help me DIY my stock seat rails for aftermarket seats.....DOING RIGHT NOW
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: here n there n everywhere
I am looking at this:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=362733
And I want to modify my stock seat rails/brackets to fit my new seats/sliders or just use the stock sliders on the new seats..
I cant figure out how im supposed to mount the flatbar to the stock bracket... Do i take the slider off the bracket and mount the new sliders to the bracket?
Or
Do I just mount the flat bar to the old slider on the old bracket and mount the seat to the flatbar, not usinf the new sliders at all? Do I need a grinder to cuy up the stock rails at all? please help!!! I have a standard 4 bolt 13" spaced seat that uses this style bracket shown in the first pic.
Please help i cant figure this out for ****!
Thanks
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=362733
And I want to modify my stock seat rails/brackets to fit my new seats/sliders or just use the stock sliders on the new seats..
I cant figure out how im supposed to mount the flatbar to the stock bracket... Do i take the slider off the bracket and mount the new sliders to the bracket?
Or
Do I just mount the flat bar to the old slider on the old bracket and mount the seat to the flatbar, not usinf the new sliders at all? Do I need a grinder to cuy up the stock rails at all? please help!!! I have a standard 4 bolt 13" spaced seat that uses this style bracket shown in the first pic.
Please help i cant figure this out for ****!
Thanks
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I have done this 2 ways.
1. use a dremel-type tool (actually, I used a more powerful pneumatic cut off tool) to grind away the spot weld areas. Yes, you can also use a spot weld cutter in a drill, but you may not be able to find one locally and I think this is actually more work and less precise. Do not try a chisel or air chisel as these just make a mess. Just grind carefully in every area where you see a spot weld, and eventually the unwanted bracket will fall off. If you insist on using a Dremel, buy a bunch of fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels. You will need a bunch because the dremel wheels are small, and the ones without fiberglass reinforcing are fragile and explode regularly.
2. Dont try to hack up the OE brackets. Just buy a new aftermarket bracket for the aftermarket seat. Then you can swap back and forth. Some people may laugh, but I swap seats before I go in for emissions testing, 'cause my aftermarket seat is a custom skinny width to fit me and the jumbo sized dude at e-check can't get in. I can swap seats in about one minute. I did it two days ago.
Good luck.
1. use a dremel-type tool (actually, I used a more powerful pneumatic cut off tool) to grind away the spot weld areas. Yes, you can also use a spot weld cutter in a drill, but you may not be able to find one locally and I think this is actually more work and less precise. Do not try a chisel or air chisel as these just make a mess. Just grind carefully in every area where you see a spot weld, and eventually the unwanted bracket will fall off. If you insist on using a Dremel, buy a bunch of fiberglass reinforced cut-off wheels. You will need a bunch because the dremel wheels are small, and the ones without fiberglass reinforcing are fragile and explode regularly.
2. Dont try to hack up the OE brackets. Just buy a new aftermarket bracket for the aftermarket seat. Then you can swap back and forth. Some people may laugh, but I swap seats before I go in for emissions testing, 'cause my aftermarket seat is a custom skinny width to fit me and the jumbo sized dude at e-check can't get in. I can swap seats in about one minute. I did it two days ago.
Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8000rpm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. Dont try to hack up the OE brackets. Just buy a new aftermarket bracket for the aftermarket seat. Then you can swap back and forth. Some people may laugh, but I swap seats before I go in for emissions testing, 'cause my aftermarket seat is a custom skinny width to fit me and the jumbo sized dude at e-check can't get in. I can swap seats in about one minute. I did it two days ago.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'd do that. brackets on ebay go for $60-80 a pair. might as well save your self some time, a headache, and $$ on tools
2. Dont try to hack up the OE brackets. Just buy a new aftermarket bracket for the aftermarket seat. Then you can swap back and forth. Some people may laugh, but I swap seats before I go in for emissions testing, 'cause my aftermarket seat is a custom skinny width to fit me and the jumbo sized dude at e-check can't get in. I can swap seats in about one minute. I did it two days ago.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'd do that. brackets on ebay go for $60-80 a pair. might as well save your self some time, a headache, and $$ on tools
^i have done method 1. i just used a regular drill w titanium bits and drilled out the spotwelds. my aftermarket seats mounted from he bottom, but were closer together than my oem seats, so i bought some flatbar and made a custom bracket. its worked great for almost a year now.
but if i had to do it all over again, i would definately get some afterarket brackets.
but if i had to do it all over again, i would definately get some afterarket brackets.
Thread Starter
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From: here n there n everywhere
WELL
Just spent ALL DAY trying to get this to work and i also WASTED $60 on a dremel which wasnt needed if at all, money would have been better spent renting a grinder
seats still arent in, we havtn even started on the passenger, the drivers side bottom seat holes arent lining up even after countless measurements and adjustments.
i really am at a loss
Just spent ALL DAY trying to get this to work and i also WASTED $60 on a dremel which wasnt needed if at all, money would have been better spent renting a grinder

seats still arent in, we havtn even started on the passenger, the drivers side bottom seat holes arent lining up even after countless measurements and adjustments.
i really am at a loss
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WELL
i also WASTED $60 on a dremel which wasnt needed if at all, money would have been better spent renting a grinder
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, money would have been better spent buying a pre-fabed seat bracket
i also WASTED $60 on a dremel which wasnt needed if at all, money would have been better spent renting a grinder
</TD></TR></TABLE>Actually, money would have been better spent buying a pre-fabed seat bracket
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Somewhere puffin away in Spokane, USA
Ok....
<takes a bong hit>...
Ok let me see if I can explain this. I was following the directing on the link as well.... and it did not go too smooth for me. So to make things simple I took my time and then took apart my OEM brackets... separating the top slider from the bottom one. Then bolting the the OEM slider back to the car.
I then bolted my NEW Sparco sliders to the seat. I then used the two pieces of metal that it tells you to cut then drill and mount them on the NEW seat rails. So not you should have your new seat with new rails and two cross bars. If your bars are cut to the right length they should go across the top of what is left of the OEM lower sliders. This is where you want to really make sure all is straight... then you can mark it... pull it apart then drill. You can also have it welded .... I have not had a chance. This also lets the seat sit nice and low... "me like that part" and can be adjusted with washers to tilt the front up if needed.
One thing to point out is the seat belt. You will need a piece to drill and mount the seat belt to the seat bracket.
TAKE YOUR TIME.... I know you are in a hurry... but if you take your time and keep an open mind... it will go fine. Measure twice and drillor cut once. What is good is the old rails allow the seat to sit straight it makes it easy to get it aligned with the steering wheel.
Those are the cross bars I made. Just cut them down and drilled them. Got the steel from Lowes for $8

the sides... OEM bottom slider
<takes a bong hit>...
Ok let me see if I can explain this. I was following the directing on the link as well.... and it did not go too smooth for me. So to make things simple I took my time and then took apart my OEM brackets... separating the top slider from the bottom one. Then bolting the the OEM slider back to the car.
I then bolted my NEW Sparco sliders to the seat. I then used the two pieces of metal that it tells you to cut then drill and mount them on the NEW seat rails. So not you should have your new seat with new rails and two cross bars. If your bars are cut to the right length they should go across the top of what is left of the OEM lower sliders. This is where you want to really make sure all is straight... then you can mark it... pull it apart then drill. You can also have it welded .... I have not had a chance. This also lets the seat sit nice and low... "me like that part" and can be adjusted with washers to tilt the front up if needed.
One thing to point out is the seat belt. You will need a piece to drill and mount the seat belt to the seat bracket.
TAKE YOUR TIME.... I know you are in a hurry... but if you take your time and keep an open mind... it will go fine. Measure twice and drillor cut once. What is good is the old rails allow the seat to sit straight it makes it easy to get it aligned with the steering wheel.
Those are the cross bars I made. Just cut them down and drilled them. Got the steel from Lowes for $8

the sides... OEM bottom slider
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,643
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From: Somewhere puffin away in Spokane, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bgcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey man, thanks for the help! do you have pics of the seatbelt bolted on the rails? </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol no...not done yet. I am waiting for my welder on monday
lol no...not done yet. I am waiting for my welder on monday
So, I cut, grinded, and drilled my stock rails. I didn't want to destroy my stock rails, but I was getting desperate. I had the seats and sliders waiting, but no brackets. I got some rails from weapon R, drilled holes, and mounted them. I have my stock seats and my Corbeau's. Very nice...
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